rpsinc

I've been a mechanical contractor for over 30 years and while I have a mix of different brands of tools from Snap-On/Mac/Matco to Harbor Freight, my criteria in selecting them has always been buy for the intended purpose. As an example, I used to install pallet racking in LARGE warehouses and some of what we installed used 1/2" structural hardware as in bolts and Whiz nuts. After the assembly process was completed it was necessary to go back with 1/2" electric impacts(Black & Decker now DeWalt outperformed the rest) and tighten all the fastners. I tested all the above mentioned brands of impact sockets and found Harbor Freights 1/2"D-3/4" sockets outperformed the rest without it even being close. Keep in mind we tightened 1/2" bolts for 10-12 hours a day, many days in a row, and continously during those days. Those guns and sockets would get hot but the combination of the B&D with the HF sockets have worked for me for over 20 years. I bought a bunch of spare sockets back then and some are still in their packaging as the original sockets are still being used today. Gotta field test the tools and decide for yourself where that VALUE scale fits for you.

I am not nearing my 80th year but am considering the same issues. I have been told multiple times that the only people who benefit from equity are the SURVIVORS. It has caused me to re-evaluate some of my lifelong philosophies esp as it concerns being completely debt free. In this country and with the existing tax structure, it seems to me that doing so is a formula for NOT ENJOYING the value of my possessions/investments. I am still trying to wrap my head around that concept as my DW and I both come from cultures that strived to be debt free. After watching the taxation implications of that direction, I realize that the only entity benefitting from our "simple" life was Uncle Sam, as we, each year, pay more in income tax and are doing less to enjoy the fruits of our sacrifices. After a life of living one way, it is challenging to move toward living a different way, but then again learning how to do it, also takes time. So, as I come here and enjoy personal experiences from all who choose to share, I live, somewhat vicariously, through those experiences. Thank you all!

I have always considered the intent of what I am trying to accomplish. In my IH, it was quite common for those systems to leak down a bit and since I used it sparingly, I wasnt about to spend hundreds of dollars to repair the system as I suspected that it may be leaking down due to lack of use. I decided that I would do a repair ONLY IF we went to a far more consistent use of the truck but for now I was going to just recharge it as needed. I bought the kit with the leak sealer(I suspected that just like cooling system leak sealers, I didnt want this stuff all over the system but since it was likely that I would need to replace some of the components in a repair the leak sealer was OK for temporary use) and filled the system when I needed to. I found this method to be quite satisfactory for my purposes and my system held the charge for most of the season we needed. Your results may be different esp if you have any significant leaks. As well it will be about how much are you willing to spend for this. If the truck gets used sparingly then perhaps the DIY might be good enough, but if the system doesnt work well and needs parts replaced, then an AC shop might be the right choice, along with its cost.

The other issue about buying cordless tools that you will use seldomly is that the batteries need exercise or they will not work when you need them. While there are advantages to having them, we with service air available do better with WAY less expensive air tools. They will be there when you need them. Just a little Marvel Mystery Oil when you put them away will help them with humidity in the air. And a surge air tank is pretty inexpensive as well, for those times where volume is needed.

Its always something!!

What about adding a surge tank, like those HF sells for setting tire beads etc.? Then either could be helped for that initial torque needed to break lugs loose. I guess after all that, the idea of a "better" quality HF gun might not be a bad idea. They have stepped up their game in the last 5 years with some "better" quality lines.

Keep in mind that some of the tools available at the home centers are many times sold at price point, thus often of lesser quality than pro grade tools for the same job available from contractor stores, either sticks & bricks or online. I havent bought tools at a home center in over a decade due to this disparity.

What about using an air wrench since the HDT has air available or with a small compressor off a converter?? I have contemplated your same question and I have alot of cordless powered tools and instead of buying a larger wrench for 1 purpose I have chosen to include into my DROM, a small compressor for misc things and for larger needs use the truck. I carry a 1/4" hose that is 100' long, not the ideal but I have it and time is available(assumes that filling what ever will take longer than with a larger hose).

Option A- yes pretty common practice mostly seen with horse trailers and some hotshot guys Option B- Biggest limitation will be height of the boxes, as they can interfere with the front of the trailer. Many use "hauler" beds(many have gooseneck hitches in them). Shorter boxes to allow for above mentioned limitation. Be careful about getting talked into 5th wheel to gooseneck adapters. Some add stresses on the 5th wheel frame and may cause broken welds and stress fractures. A Goosebox is an alternative although I have no personal experience with them.

Thank you for the input. A quality lubricant cant be bad as they all need some of that in the fuel system, at least that is my thinking. But not wanting to introduce a product that hasnt worked for someone already.

Not sure how or IF this is true mostly due to my testing methods were not on Smarts. When my Father was an SKP(90s) he was introduced to Lubri-Gas while on the road. He was traveling in a '94 Dolphin with an F-53 chassis sporting the 460 V-8 and a Banks Powerpack. He told me he found it ran better with Lubri-Gas and regular unleaded. I got some for my "work"(I am coming to dislike this word) cube van that had a 12' box on a Chevy van chassis, 350/350 setup. I bought it(the van) and found it got around 5.4MPG. Not acceptable and being a technician went on to make changes and measuring MPGs after each change. Now this van carried alot of construction equipment so it wasnt a delivery van that was emptied each day. When I completed most of the changes, tires, carb rebuild, exhaust etc., I got it to about 9.8MPG. Then started running Lubri-Gas and found better throttle response and improved MPG, up to 12.2MPG. That was a pretty nice change, esp to my pocket book, BUT gas wasnt nearing $5/gal back then. It was claimed that Lubri-Gas could offset the octane boost in premium fuel, so I ran it on regular and LG for as long as I had it. Not sure IF that additive would help Smarts but might be worth a test, its still available. In my diesels I run Howes. Anybody suggest what works best in D13s? I have some Howes sitting around and I am wondering IF it would be OK to use it in the Volvo.

There are all kinds of people that make up this world and I am one of those people.

You may think you are not but you have proven yourself to be a very competent technician. Troubleshooting these types of problems can be difficult but you have shown us all that patience and starting at the beginning can be a good approach. I used to work for the company that makes Charmin & Bounty. Our consistent troubleshooting technique was often to identity what had changed. In your case you searched out the change (bed build) and identified the issue. Congratulations!! I had a similar situation in a CC DRW. I fought braking issues and even changed controllers, wiring etc. only to discover that my brake pedal switch was malfuntioning, only sometimes, and generally when I needed lights and brakes. Found it when doing some light checks before leaving. Wiggled the switch (replaced the switch then) and had lights and then brakes, full on, after adjusting them, what a difference. Likely had brakes seldom over the previous 2 years. Oh boy. Now felt safer while towing.

You likely have given it the care it needed and I would think that you have also NOT towed near or past its capacity. In So Cal I see many of these trucks towing 40+' toy haulers loaded to the gills to the point that during desert season the CHP sets up on I-10 with portable scales because of the hazard these rigs pose. I had a guy reach out when I was selling my MDT and he was towing with a RAM 3500. He had a sand car on a rack on the bed of the truck, the bed was full of gear AND he was pulling a 43' toyhauler loaded with UTVs and gear for his family of 5, which also rode in the truck. His 1st question to me was, will my HDT pull his setup on the Utah freeways at 75MPH+? Told him I didnt know because to me that was unsafe and I would not do that, even IF it could. No way he was safe.

Seems like lots of RAM SRW 3500s in my area. I do hear plenty of stories about front end problems on the RAMs, needing some significant repairs every 50K miles, so as you are looking keep in mind if those used trucks are around 50K. Also, the Ford turbos have problems too, which I dont understand since all 3 makes use the Garrett mulitvane turbos, might be something about the FORD application. Also, if choosing diesel, be wary of any with a Bosch CP4 fuel pump. They tend to fail with lots of $ to repair. There are some retrofit options available to eliminate that issue. I am a GM/Duramax owner, having 3 of them and know more about them. GM has done some good work in their development of the Duramax/Allison platform. The RAM with the Dodge transmission is a non reliable option as that Cummins makes too much torque for that tranny but the Aisin, modeled after the Allison is a great option. Not familiar with Powerstroke weaknesses, never been a Ford guy.

Can you please share a pic of how you attach them and how you store them for travel?

I am VERY interested in this topic mostly because we just got our 730 insured. Used SF as we have had them for decades and have many policies. I did also get a quote from Miller, and they were right there on price, so we stayed with SF due to previous claim experience. ~$100/mo

So an update to this topic My wife went to drive a 453 and was impressed with it as to power and comfort. Your advise to look for this model and that being reinforced by a Smart car repair company, the 453 model was improved a bunch and is a better car over the 451. I plan to drive the same car in the next few days and we'll see where that goes. I have ceased my search for a 451. Thank you all.

Looking forward to your pics

I encourage you to check on replacement values in your area. Truck prices are very high and esp so if the insurance company's basis for value is KBB or NADA. Checking on sale prices of available replacement trucks might provide some perspective on what it will cost you to replace the truck they are offering $30K on. I bought a 2015 Chevrolet 3500HD for my business about 16 months ago and in todays market, I can make 20% more if I was to sell it today, and that is on a truck that is 16 months older than when I bought it.

Jaydrvr Thank you for the experience. Had not considered that happening, but I understand how it could. Could have a ticket written by private security too, esp when they do not recognize the sometimes applied Private RV, Not for Hire that most of us have. And then the effort needed to dispute or counter such a ticket. And towing, what a nightmare.

Cant write tickets for parking on private property. Sounds to me like you are worrying about something that hasnt happened yet. Might be a situation that asking for forgiveness is better than asking for permission. What business would deny you parking when you are there to shop at that store?

renegadeproductsusa.com This company has kits available for polishing and separate items like buffer wheels as well. Havent tried them yet, but planning to for the Alcoas on my truck.

And that doesnt have to be a BAD thing. Enjoy the fruits of the labor you have expended.

Not looking forward to fueling the Volvo