jcussen

https://www.solarchoice.net.au/blog/partial-shading-is-bad-for-solar-panels-power-systems/#:~:text=In conventional solar panel strings,as the shadow sitsI Interesting read on solar panels and shading, especially the part about bypass diodes. I have a bluetooth readout on my phone for the solar controllers, and have shaded panels on the roof with a piece of cardboard, in both series and parallel operation, found very little difference in output, probably because of the bypass diodes. All home systems run in series or series/parallel at high voltage because it is just not practical to run high amperage cables. I am running 120 volts on series panels on my coach, and 240 volts on my series/parallel panels on the house.

IF your charge controller can take 100 volts, why not run panels in series, that way 800 watts at 82 volts would be less than 10 amps and you could use 10 gauge down to controller.

Did you buy it?

Generally in bus service, 8v71's were rebuilt every 200 to 300 thousand miles. So I expect it has had several overhauls. If you are serious about buying it, would recommend you getting a bus guy to check it out first. There are several bus conversion forums you could look on, you might find some good information on them. I have had two bus conversions with 8V71's and they are generally good engines, but you must know what you are doing, they are not like modern engines with all kinds of protection and safety features. Think the last OTR DD 8v71 was produced in the late 70's, its big brother the 92 series went on to about 1995. This guy knows a lot about them. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCTeteRfN_uu-odJld157e6Q

Thinking with a million miles will have had a couple of rebuilds. 8V71's have not been built for many years. Probably not the best choice for someone who knows nothing about diesel engines.

Probably the Truma aqua-go, for whole coach, propane only. 60000 btu's. You would have a hard time producing 60000 btu's with electric, that would be 17 kw, not possible on a 30 amp 3600 watt coach. Have one on my Wayfarer, and it works great.

If you mean the whole coach hot water heater, propane. If you mean a sink mounted unit, probably electric.

Depends on your generator and its fuel consumption. Some big diesel pushers have fuel tanks big enough to do it. Many smaller class c's or b's not possible. For non generator use, massive solar and battery is necessary. Outdoor temps of 85 to 100, you will need good ac's and good insulation.

This is what I was referring to: https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2020-02-06/ocasio-cortez-s-electric-car-charging-measure-lifts-tesla-shares

Don"t feel bad, I sold mine at $500, should have had more faith in Elon.

As Kirk said. If air inside coach is 90 F then discharge should be around 70 f. Of course as temps fall in coach, temp out of unit will drop also. So 80 F in coach will be 60 f out of vents. Outside ambient temps play a small factor, but if condenser is clean and straight cooling fins, and blower is blowing correctly, you should have the 20 degree drop inside. Most RV's have a lot of windows and poor insulation, and some are even painted dark colors which will absorb heat. Once it gets in the mid 90's here in South Texas, I am happy if my two 15000 btu roof units maintain 78 F.

Lots of ways to go, Have a small class c that has a converter and a simple inverter to run a 5 cf absorption fridge. Can run the electric heating elements on the fridge via inverter with alternator charging batteries, off batteries alone for short periods, and of course on propane. On shore power, inverter is bypassed and ac runs fridge heating elements.

I also can run one ac for several hours, on my 3000 watt inverter with easy start on the ac. but agree the 150 amp draw on 12 volt batteries require 4/0 wiring.

Just bought a sprinter class c. Small [5 cf] absorption fridge has 120 volt electric heating elements wired to inverter. Draw is about 240 watts. Believe there is a device that senses when alternator is charging batteries and allows it to run on electric when battery voltage is above a certain point, but when batteries are not being charged, it will switch to gas. Handy in some tunnels or ferries where you are required to turn off any propane. Plan on adding enough solar so fridge can stay on electric, at least during the day when sun is out..

As mentioned, if you have enough solar to keep batteries up, will work. Other scenario is driving with alternator charging house batteries. Bear in mind, many heating elements in propane refrigerators can use up to 500 or more watts, far more than a electric only compressor refrigerator.

Used it on an old bus conversion with aluminum roof, really helped. Did have some dark painted stripes that took 4 or 5 coats to cover. Agree it really reflects the heat.

I put one of these at the bottom of the compartment blowing up over the coils. https://www.arrow.com/en/products/rl65-2112/ebm-papst?gclid=CjwKCAjw_-D3BRBIEiwAjVMy7JVaFO1nSE1W9U_VUE1WZQkMaaYWBF-Ngt95yaXcEch87-vwoDaf5xoCdO0QAvD_BwE

I also used small 12 volt computer fans operated by a snap disc thermostat on the condenser coils to come on at 110 f. If you want extra fire protection and get the ARP defender, get the one with fan control which will turn on and off. https://www.arprv.com/products.php

Not sure what you mean "keep them right". For lithium, you must use Victron Connect to initially set up values, but once set, I have not needed to adjust anything since I set it up two years ago. This is a 12 volt battery bank and a 120 volt 3000 watt inverter. Don't know about running a 240 volt Victron system, which is why I use a Magnum on my 48 volt battery and 240 ac volt system at the house, it is also a set it and forget it system.

Victron solar controllers, battery monitor, and inverter/charger work great in my coach 12 volt battery, 120 volt ac system. But for my house 240 volt system, magnum and Midnite solar work better.

I have used a consignment dealer in East Texas to buy and sell my last 4 coaches. They clean up and detail the coach, and leave it plugged into 50 amp all the time with heat or ac running.all the time. Looked at PPL, but their consigned coaches are not plugged in and are in the same shape as the seller left them in when they brought it in. As far as I know, they charge the same 10% commission as PPL and advertise in all the same places. They will not accept coaches that do not meet their standards though. https://www.motorhomesoftexas.com/used-motorhomes-for-sale-Nacogdoches-texas--inventory?condition=pre-owned

On my sprinter class c, have a progressive dynamics pd 4060K, it actually has a setting for constant voltage [lithium] as well as the normal 3 stage charger for lead acids. Might check, will save you a couple of hundred if you don't have to change it out. Some inverter/chargers also have lithium settings.

Don't know what Sehc is looking at, but If he is considering a 12 volt lithium system like the majority do, the dc to dc charger I recommended will work fine, I use one on my coach which is 12 volt lithium.

https://www.solar-electric.com/victron-energy-orion-tr-12-12-30a-dc-dc.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwz4z3BRCgARIsAES_OVff4PMJgYTw-1MOI8hty4TX6jRlbg03x9D2jFJ7VymHacyetx8jzzkaAmXoE My coach is 12 volt lithium , so use the above dc-dc charger to charge the batteries off the alternator. When not driving either the inverter/charger or solar will charge the house batteries.