jcussen

I did use the Midnite Solar 250's because each string puts out 240 volts., They only handle 63 amps, so needed two. Do you think 5200 watts will fit on the roof even with no roof airs?

Haven't even plugged my inverter in. I have 5200 watts of solar running 240 volts through two Midnite Solar charge controllers to the batteries and a Magnum 4448. Only use it to run freezers and charge my EV.

Finished wiring my three 7kw battery packs and am now charging them. Might cut some light plastic to lay over terminals.

Me too, so far 9/16, 1/2., 7/16, and 3/8 and 10 mm. Probably more in the future.

Talked to a 20's something panhandler the other day at a traffic light, his sign said "laid off and I have a wife and kid to feed". Told him I needed some help to clean up the yard around the house. Offered him $15 an hour and would pick him up and drive him home everyday. He said "No Thanks". Thinking he was making more that $15 an hour panhandling.

Trouble is that Glens batteries are made of 14 individual battery packs with exposed busbars joining them together. So you have positive and negative terminals all over the top of the batteries. Removing the final negative cable will not prevent you from a possible short if you lose control of your wrench.

As for longevity, The used lithium batteries several of us on the forum are using, are 8 to 10 years old and probably have been cycled many thousands of time, and still retain 70% of their original capacity. They weigh about 1/4 as much as lead acid and cost about 1/2 as much as agms for equal amp hour capacity. This is not some new untried technology. There are many documented cases of EV's reaching 500000 miles on the original set of batteries, Which is probably much harder on the batteries than 10 or 20 years use in an RV.

Good idea. Might do the same.

My 600 amp/hours of LI will take a 1C charge, meaning in theory 600 amps. Not very practical though. But if I use 150 a/h's overnight, and I have good sun, I can bring the batteries to 100% in less than two hours. No absorb necessary. That is the beauty of Lithium, especially if you boondock and don't want to listen to your generator. But agree if Goodenough's battery comes to fruition, will be a game changer.

I have Ralph's basic BMS made by Xiaoxiang. Bluetooth is standard. Might ask him, and he can send you a link for the app, if you have the same BMS. But, as you say, not absolutely necessary. Don't think you can get three 4 gauge lugs on the shunt, so you might have to get a seperate busbar or make a copper bar.

As he bought the same packs that I have, believe he has the bms with bluetooth, and can monitor cell voltages and currents on his phone with the proper app.

Getting confusing. I have the same setup as Glen. I treat each 48 volt battery pack with BMS as a single battery, and just parallel them. [with breaker/disconnect on each battery positive] So, 3 negatives connected to one side of shunt, and other side of shunt connected to negative post of inverter. 3 positives are on positive post of inverter.

Assuming you have three #8 negative wires, one from each battery pack, these would go on one terminal of the shunt. Negative leads from the Inverters etc., would go on the other terminal of the shunt.

You might need another busbar. Batteries to one busbar and shunt between it and other busbar that has your inverters etc. on it.

Shunt should be between battery common negative and all other equipment including solar. This allows shunt to actually see what is going into, and going out of, batteries.

I still have the original Balmar on my coach. It did work on my LA batteries, but not on LI. Now it is basically a voltmeter. The new one appears to use a shunt, unlike the original. But would still use the Magnum setup, one less wire to run, and one less gauge to mount.

Read my 2 posts previous to yours. Posted a link to the video with the BMK connecting to the ARTR. As he is going all Magnum, probably the best method. I have all Victron in my coach, but am setting up the same system as his [with 5200 watts solar] in my S&B except with the ARC-50 instead of the ARTR. But I have read on other forums, that the Magnum battery monitors are not as accurate as Victron when used on Lithium systems, not sure why.

The BMK shunt will plug into your inverter and display amps among other things on ME-ARTR https://www.magnum-dimensions.com/news/201804/setup-me-bmk-battery-monitor-kit-me-artr-advanced-router

If you are going with the 4448 and a Magnum monitor, get the Magnum BMK shunt kit, allows you to read everything on your monitor, and you do not have to buy any other meters. https://www.solar-electric.com/magnum-energy-battery-monitor-kit.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAuefvBRDXARIsAFEOQ9F0fY35sUMO5fT80eePs8TnUl9UcTSRdc3kV6yy0XuU9bv-PH7y6rIaAl5IEALw

Mine is in the S&B, so the 50 and 20 breakers are in a breaker box with receptacles, nothing else between inverter and breaker box.

I am also using a 175 amp breaker on the positive lead between my battery and inverter, and normal 20 and 50 amp breakers on the ac outputs.

In the coach I have li which is a little higher that start voltage, , so I just have a small battery charger off the inverter charging the start batteries, not so efficient but works.

OR one 240 volt inverter for his mini-splits, and one 120 volt inverter for the rest of the trailer.

This one. https://www.solaris-shop.com/magnum-ms4448pae-4400w-battery-inverter/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k98geXy5k-E

This one will give what you need, but bear in mind total output is 4400 watts for combined load. But up to 4 can be paralleled with a router. But still think separate 240 and 120 volt inverters would be easier.