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About jcussen

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    500 hp foretravel 40 ft, my hole in the driveway I throw money into.

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  1. Have Model 3 and have thought about the wife driving it and charging at superchargers and just following me down the road in my coach, but have not done it yet.
  2. I put 5200 watts on my house in series/parallel and use two sets of 8 gauge wire to bring it down to the solar controllers, can't even imagine the cost and weight of the wiring I would have needed if I had run them all in parallel. But to each his own.
  3. https://www.solarchoice.net.au/blog/partial-shading-is-bad-for-solar-panels-power-systems/#:~:text=In conventional solar panel strings,as the shadow sitsI Interesting read on solar panels and shading, especially the part about bypass diodes. I have a bluetooth readout on my phone for the solar controllers, and have shaded panels on the roof with a piece of cardboard, in both series and parallel operation, found very little difference in output, probably because of the bypass diodes. All home systems run in series or series/parallel at high voltage because it is just not practical to run high amperage cables. I am running 120 volts on series panels on my coach, and 240 volts on my series/parallel panels on the house.
  4. IF your charge controller can take 100 volts, why not run panels in series, that way 800 watts at 82 volts would be less than 10 amps and you could use 10 gauge down to controller.
  5. Generally in bus service, 8v71's were rebuilt every 200 to 300 thousand miles. So I expect it has had several overhauls. If you are serious about buying it, would recommend you getting a bus guy to check it out first. There are several bus conversion forums you could look on, you might find some good information on them. I have had two bus conversions with 8V71's and they are generally good engines, but you must know what you are doing, they are not like modern engines with all kinds of protection and safety features. Think the last OTR DD 8v71 was produced in the late 70's, its big brother the 92 series went on to about 1995. This guy knows a lot about them. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCTeteRfN_uu-odJld157e6Q
  6. Thinking with a million miles will have had a couple of rebuilds. 8V71's have not been built for many years. Probably not the best choice for someone who knows nothing about diesel engines.
  7. Probably the Truma aqua-go, for whole coach, propane only. 60000 btu's. You would have a hard time producing 60000 btu's with electric, that would be 17 kw, not possible on a 30 amp 3600 watt coach. Have one on my Wayfarer, and it works great.
  8. If you mean the whole coach hot water heater, propane. If you mean a sink mounted unit, probably electric.
  9. Depends on your generator and its fuel consumption. Some big diesel pushers have fuel tanks big enough to do it. Many smaller class c's or b's not possible. For non generator use, massive solar and battery is necessary. Outdoor temps of 85 to 100, you will need good ac's and good insulation.
  10. This is what I was referring to: https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2020-02-06/ocasio-cortez-s-electric-car-charging-measure-lifts-tesla-shares
  11. Don"t feel bad, I sold mine at $500, should have had more faith in Elon.
  12. As Kirk said. If air inside coach is 90 F then discharge should be around 70 f. Of course as temps fall in coach, temp out of unit will drop also. So 80 F in coach will be 60 f out of vents. Outside ambient temps play a small factor, but if condenser is clean and straight cooling fins, and blower is blowing correctly, you should have the 20 degree drop inside. Most RV's have a lot of windows and poor insulation, and some are even painted dark colors which will absorb heat. Once it gets in the mid 90's here in South Texas, I am happy if my two 15000 btu roof units maintain 78 F.
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