jcussen

Agree with DesertMiner, I am going with one Magnum inverter for both 120 and 240, but with the kind of loads you are looking at, lot simpler to go with big 240 volt inverter and seperate big 120 volt inverter, with the added benefit of two charging sources, for faster recharging when on gen or sp.

A 120 volt inverter will only supply 120 volts period. Will supply both legs in your breaker box, but still only 120 volts. 50 amp SP is 240 volts with 120 to neutral on each leg. This will give you 240 across hot legs for your mini splits. If i were wiring a 48 volt system, would go with separate 240 volt inverters and separate 120 volt inverters with separate panels. Maybe a little more work, but a lot easier to understand. I don't think any 220 volt Victons give you the option of 110 volt output as well on battery power. Maybe John T. knows, but don't think you can take two 120 volt inverters and expect to get 220 volts out of them. Keep talking to Ralph in Pearland, he has good handle on this.

So, you are not running any 240 volt equipment? Maybe I am wrong but remember about something about running mini-splits.

I went with the Magnum 4448 for my S&B system. Wanted a Victron, but appears they are either 120 or 240 volt only. I needed 240 for my car, but needed 120 volt as well, appears the Magnum can supply both from same inverter but at a reduced output when using both.

Strange, in Galveston County Tx., because it is diesel, only lights, horn, turn signals etc. Here any Texdot inspection can do it. http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php?topic=11060.0

I went through a broker this year, don't know where he gets his commission but not from me. I stayed on the same plan with a different company but exact same coverage. Payments went from 180 to 130 a month, but part of that is a first year discount, so it pays to shop every year. I like the broker method because you tell him your basic health history and scrips, and if he is good, will know which companies will take you and which ones won't. Saves you filling out applications.

Great price, am putting a 5200 watt system on the S&B, with leaf battery packs and need one. Mind telling us where you got that quote?

A lot of new cars are coming out with LED headlights. Some interesting facts. https://www.xenonpro.com/led-headlight-color-guide-choosing-best-color

Very interesting John, have had a bunch of coaches with inverters and inverter/chargers, and have never seen a disconnect or fuse between the inverter output and the main breaker in the panel. I guess some small very cheap walmart cigarette lighter plug inverters may not have any protection, but all the rv ones I have seen have breakers or internal fuses in the inverter on the output. The ones the OP is getting certainly do. But on the other hand, every inverter I have seen, has protection on the input, [12 volts or whatever] so that if the inverter tries to produce more power than it is capable of [a shorted output?], it will blow that fuse. The OP is asking all the right questions and think he will know the right size wiring to run from inverters to breaker boxes.

Yes, in many cases cheaper than regular bulbs, and normally draws less than 1/8 the amperage of an incandescent for the same lumens. I have 60 g4 puck lights in my coach, and I replaced them all for about $22. And as you say a lot less heat and a lot less power used. If all on, incandescent 600 watts, with led, 90 watts. Works out to about 36 cents per bulb. https://www.ebay.com/itm/20X-4000K-Warm-White-G4-LED-5050-DC-12V-Landscaping-Bulb-lights-Home-Lamps/301311785979?hash=item462794fbfb&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&enc=AQAEAA

If your inverters are feeding a panel that includes all your electrical loads, should have a main breaker and breakers for each piece of equipment ie ac's, stove, cooktop, etc.. You can use this main breaker in the panel to secure the rest of the panel. Much like your house, except your inverters are supplying power instead of the grid.

I use this one. https://www.ebay.com/p/1882499805

If a 400 volt battery pack like most electric vehicles, 228 ah's is about 90 kw. About the same as the bigger Tesla packs, except in a heaver non aerodynamic body. With solar panels on the sides, doubt you could even get a steady 1500 watts for charging. Believe recharging a depleted battery with only solar would take weeks under normal conditions.. You would need 5 or 600 kw's to be semi practical, and still would have to plug in somewhere.

I can see Tesla becoming the "Mercedes Benz" of EV's, worldwide in the near future.

But just remember you will have 10 or 15 or maybe even 20 years to get over it. By that time, LI may not give you sticker shock.

Tesla has produce over 3/4 of million lithium ion powered cars since 2012. No one but Tesla knowns how many complete battery failures they have had, but most feel a very small amount. Current cars have an 8 year 120000 mile battery/drivetrain replacement warranty, There are now Teslas on the road with over 400000 miles.They do have a fairly sophisticated system involving cooling and heating the batteries when charging and discharging. I am sure that Battle Born has sold thousands, or 100 of thousands of LI batteries by now, and have never seen a less than glowing report on any of them. These are basically drop in replacement batteries, charging profiles must be changed, but once set up, require no further maintenance. They have a 10 year replacement warranty.

Same with me, my load was about 160 amps [12 volts] and went over all cables and connections with IR gun, found several bad [hot] connections and a warm 3/0 cable to inverter. Changed out both 3/0's to 4/0's and recrimped several battery cable connections on busbar. IR gun is your friend when running high amperages.

It is outdated, some cannot accept new technology, The famous Handy Bob still thinks lithium ion is just a fad. You can get into trouble discharging or overcharging any type of battery. And buying and installing any battery system without the proper safeguards can get you in trouble. Some will buy raw lithium cells and expect them to work as is, Wrong. To build any type of battery storage system, you need to know what you are doing. Especially with lithium, you must have a proper battery management system. I am not an expert, so I bought lithium ion batteries that have a BMS built into each one. Can't overcharge, overdischarge, overheat or experience any other problem associated with non regulated lithium batteries. If the BMS detects a problem, it just disconnects the battery. If you are using a Volt, or Leaf, Tesla battery pack, or cells without a BMS, it behooves you to do your homework, and make sure you have and understand how to use the BMS. It is still relatively new tech, so will require a learning curve. He does make some good points on solar panels. Early Tesla's did have several battery fires. Tesla identified the problem and issued a OTA software update to solve the problem. They are coming up on 400000 Model 3's sold in the last 3 years with no reports of a battery fire.

You are probably right, if I did, could get by with a 20 amp one for just lighting.

When I was looking at a 48 volt system, checked on 90 amp 48 to 12 volt converters, [I have a 12 volt hyd pump and 12 volt air compressor and a small 12 volt charger for start batteries] Best price I saw was $900+.

You will need to research your charging rate. Tesla's will take 2 times the charging rate. i.e. a 75 kw battery can be charged at 150 kw, but they are water cooled to remove the heat produced by charging . BattleBorn's have no cooling and will accept a 1 C charge, 100 amps into a 100 amp hour battery. Looks like your inverters will charge at 60 amps each. So charging a 400+ amp battery bank should not be a problem, but do double check with the seller.

Looks like a max of 148 amps at 48 volts per pack http://www.freesunpower.com/wire_calc.php#startGrn Calculator only goes to 100 amps, but pulling more than 100 amps from each bank is not likely. but would go one wire size bigger anyway.

Good on ya! Keep us informed.