Bikers will recognize this, "Chrome won't get you home......................." but it will cost you $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

[mr. cob]

Howdy All,

The Pete, came with some chrome switch extensions, kinda pretty but also kinda in the way this became very apparent when I was removing the mattress from the sleeper in order to run a bunch of wires.  Here's what the switches look like with the extensions in place .

 

Heres what the air activated switches that cost $79.95 each look like after they are broken off my the mattress.

 

Heres what the switches look like without the extensions not as cool but a whole lot harder to break off.  Once I get all the interior work done I may reinstall the extensions, then again I may not.

Dave

[Brad & Jacolyn]

I'm almost afraid to ask but how many switches did you break Dave?

Brad

 

[mr. cob]

Howdy Brad

Just the two most expensive ones, the door windows on the Peterbilt are operated by compressed air.

Dave

[noteven]

Doh!

[beyerjf]

I have to ask Dave if he ever even thinks about making cosmetic "improvements" to his Urals. Chrome wheels, impact yellow paint jobs with stripes, maybe a decal of Snoopy on the side. Probably not because part of the charm and function of the vehicle would be changed, and the very philosophy of driving one would be called into question. Maybe make some mechanical improvements because the OEM was lacking.

Since have collected and restored old Studebakers I have been in the camp of "keeping it stock" since I was a teenager. And continued to maintain that standard though all of the 5 heavy duty trucks I bought new since 1976. I have seen many cosmetic modifications done to trucks like my own that just did not stand the test of time like the OEM quality materials. And in some cases degraded the function to the point of being useless. My overall maintenance and reliability costs are less than many of my friends who think they can improve upon the OEM engineering, both cosmetic and mechanical.  

Now in the case of your switches. I am sure in the original narrow nose Peterbilts of the 1950's and 1960's, the switches on the instrument panel were make of a metal body, with a steel very short hard to use single/multi pole handle, made in the USA of a material and quality that outlasted every other part of the truck. And back then a couple of extensions on the handles of the most commonly used circuits (ex, blinking marker lights) would be an improvement over the OEM switch functionality. But lets fast forward to the present, where Peterbilt engineers long ago recognized that, ordered their vendors to do 2 things, make the handle longer, and of cheaper materials. They wanted to discourage unnecessary modification to their design, knowing full well that the general truck driving public is not going to get it right, indeed in some safety functions make it out and out dangerous. 

Let's just say I have an enormous respect for the thought and discipline an OEM puts into their designs. And of course they make mistakes. But their batting average for getting it right is way higher than that of the average truck owner. 

But there again I drive a cab over.  

[mr. cob]

3 hours ago, beyerjf said:

I have to ask Dave if he ever even thinks about making cosmetic "improvements" to his Urals. Chrome wheels, impact yellow paint jobs with stripes, maybe a decal of Snoopy on the side. Probably not because part of the charm and function of the vehicle would be changed, and the very philosophy of driving one would be called into question. Maybe make some mechanical improvements because the OEM was lacking.

Since have collected and restored old Studebakers I have been in the camp of "keeping it stock" since I was a teenager. And continued to maintain that standard though all of the 5 heavy duty trucks I bought new since 1976. I have seen many cosmetic modifications done to trucks like my own that just did not stand the test of time like the OEM quality materials. And in some cases degraded the function to the point of being useless. My overall maintenance and reliability costs are less than many of my friends who think they can improve upon the OEM engineering, both cosmetic and mechanical.  

Now in the case of your switches. I am sure in the original narrow nose Peterbilts of the 1950's and 1960's, the switches on the instrument panel were make of a metal body, with a steel very short hard to use single/multi pole handle, made in the USA of a material and quality that outlasted every other part of the truck. And back then a couple of extensions on the handles of the most commonly used circuits (ex, blinking marker lights) would be an improvement over the OEM switch functionality. But lets fast forward to the present, where Peterbilt engineers long ago recognized that, ordered their vendors to do 2 things, make the handle longer, and of cheaper materials. They wanted to discourage unnecessary modification to their design, knowing full well that the general truck driving public is not going to get it right, indeed in some safety functions make it out and out dangerous. 

Let's just say I have an enormous respect for the thought and discipline an OEM puts into their designs. And of course they make mistakes. But their batting average for getting it right is way higher than that of the average truck owner. 

But there again I drive a cab over.  

Howdy Jeff,

I have long been a advocate of function over form, yes I'll admit to the occasional chrome up grade on my Harley's but for the most part my race cars, bikes and off road Jeeps were built to perform if anything on them looked good it was not the prime function.  As to putting lipstick on the pig that is a Ural, I love the Ural for what it is, a simple machine that does darn near anything well but nothing perfect.

Dave

[Pete Kildow]

I have had luck using JB weld on those switches. Broke 2 off of a 1995 FLD in 1995. Truck has 1200 miles on it. And both were the ones you don't want to be without. Jake and cruse switches. Guy had a small hand drill, I drilled a small hole in the part that broke off. Then used half of a Cotter key. Pushed into both halfs. Then Jb weld on both. 4 months and over 100,000 miles later. They were still holding. 

We were running Team to Ca and back every week. Then a short trip to Miami Fl when we got back from Ca. 7200 miles per week. We got a new truck every 4 months.

[mr. cob]

9 minutes ago, Pete Kildow said:

I have had luck using JB weld on those switches. Broke 2 off of a 1995 FLD in 1995. Truck has 1200 miles on it. And both were the ones you don't want to be without. Jake and cruse switches. Guy had a small hand drill, I drilled a small hole in the part that broke off. Then used half of a Cotter key. Pushed into both halfs. Then Jb weld on both. 4 months and over 100,000 miles later. They were still holding. 

We were running Team to Ca and back every week. Then a short trip to Miami Fl when we got back from Ca. 7200 miles per week. We got a new truck every 4 months.

Howdy Pete,

I have considered trying to use JB-Weld on the switches, if you look at this photo,

you will see a very small hole in the center of the switch, there is a small steel rod in the center of the switch handle, the plastic seems to have been molded around this steel rod.  The steel rod sticks out about 0.090" of an inch so I may try to JB-Weld the broken handle back on, I have nothing to lose and with taxes close to 200 bucks to save buying parts not counting the hours of taking the dash apart, disconnecting and reconnecting air lines while fixing the subsequent air leaks that seem to always accompany such projects.

Dave

[Moresmoke]

9 hours ago, beyerjf said:

But there again I drive a cab over.  

That right there says a lot!

[Pete Kildow]

On 3/17/2018 at 4:29 PM, mr. cob said:

Howdy Pete,

I have considered trying to use JB-Weld on the switches, if you look at this photo,

you will see a very small hole in the center of the switch, there is a small steel rod in the center of the switch handle, the plastic seems to have been molded around this steel rod.  The steel rod sticks out about 0.090" of an inch so I may try to JB-Weld the broken handle back on, I have nothing to lose and with taxes close to 200 bucks to save buying parts not counting the hours of taking the dash apart, disconnecting and reconnecting air lines while fixing the subsequent air leaks that seem to always accompany such projects.

Dave

Looked the same as those. And sure gets you though until you get new Switches. But then again 5 minute epoxy and may never need new ones.

Have also glued a screw into the hole. And wrapped it with tape. That got me back to the east coast, 5 weeks later.

Never had one break without the extensions. But like them for sure. I have the short ones on the on switches for the Jake and Cruise. Long on the rest.

Click For Full-Size Image.

[mr. cob]

16 minutes ago, Pete Kildow said:

Looked the same as those. And sure gets you though until you get new Switches. But then again 5 minute epoxy and may never need new ones.

Have also glued a screw into the hole. And wrapped it with tape. That got me back to the east coast, 5 weeks later.

Never had one break without the extensions. But like them for sure. I have the short ones on the on switches for the Jake and Cruise. Long on the rest.

Click For Full-Size Image.

Howdy Pete,

I am going to give gluing the switches a try, I have nothing to lose at this point, thanks for the tip.

Dave

[Scrap]

See how you have the 12-pt face nut Pete?  You have the bronze metallic switches that were good ol KW of the 90's.  Only when they got communized with PB in the 2000's did KW get stuck with the thin 6pt nuts and plastic switches.  Buy some old eBay switches or panels to keep as spares!  Air switches, however, were always plastic.

Usually Jake and cruise and markers and headlights are long and the rest are short, but anybody can customize their truck the way they want.

[noteven]

Scrap - are Mr Cobs broken switch parts made out of ABS by any chance?

[Scrap]

They are.  Good thing is your tongue doesn't stick to them when they are frozen!

[noteven]

3 hours ago, Scrap said:

They are.  Good thing is your tongue doesn't stick to them when they are frozen!

Mr Cob I am carrying material that will repair these 

[mr. cob]

8 minutes ago, noteven said:

Mr Cob I am carrying material that will repair these 

Howdy noteven,

Well, ifin you have time whilst your in the area I sure would like to give this a try.

Dave

[rickeieio]

The folks on this forum are great.  Better than family.

[noteven]

Even the folks who don’t ride motorsickles are nice 

[rickeieio]

They're scooter bums at heart, but don't realize it.

[Pete Kildow]

On 3/20/2018 at 12:01 AM, Scrap said:

See how you have the 12-pt face nut Pete?  You have the bronze metallic switches that were good ol KW of the 90's.  Only when they got communized with PB in the 2000's did KW get stuck with the thin 6pt nuts and plastic switches.  Buy some old eBay switches or panels to keep as spares!  Air switches, however, were always plastic.

Usually Jake and cruise and markers and headlights are long and the rest are short, but anybody can customize their truck the way they want.

Picked up some extras. Sure don't want any of the PB switches in the old KW. LOL

I like the short switches. That way I don't have to look at them. Just by feel know where I'm at. Got used to that running way to many miles. In very short times. Back when we were running large car's. Did not want to be looking off at those speeds.

Also had that supper long toggle, that cut the brake light switch off. Where you could lock it down, but no brake lights. That got me out of a lot of tickets. But if that Trooper seen the brake lights come on. Ticket you were getting for sure.

[Black]

$80 each is CRAZY. If the fix doesn't end up working and you can find someone to borrow a switch from, I'm happy to design and print it on my 3D printer for you. All it'll cost you is postage and a medium Wendy's Frosty if we ever meet in person

[mr. cob]

6 hours ago, Black said:

$80 each is CRAZY. If the fix doesn't end up working and you can find someone to borrow a switch from, I'm happy to design and print it on my 3D printer for you. All it'll cost you is postage and a medium Wendy's Frosty if we ever meet in person

Howdy Black,

If I can come up with a switch handle I'll take you up on your generous offer but only if you'll accept an EXTRA LARGE Frosty.

Dave