Jump to content

ALLOY

Validated Members
  • Content Count

    362
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by ALLOY

  1. Have you checked the full load amperage of the slides? Any leveling system?
  2. Does it controlcharing so the battery bank is not over/under charged? FLA is bulk 4 stage bulk - absorb - float - standby - equalize (sometimes) Lithium is 2 stage - bulk - float (cutoff after X minutes) with temp & voltage disconnects
  3. I cut the strainer out so there's nothing for hair to catch and installed a trap with a clean out.
  4. . ......what will it do to the batteries (FLA or Lithium) though?
  5. I run 2 - 400C Viair in tandem. This way I have a backup an it was cheaper than buying a better compressor like ARB. https://arbusa.com/air-compressors/portable-air-compressors/ The 400C get really hot when filling our 17" tires to 120PSI. Don't know how long one would last doing it.
  6. Victron requires 2 inverters one each for L1 and L2. It is done allot. I would talk to Victron. Price is an important factor as is intergrating the componets together which I think Victron is better at. https://community.victronenergy.com/questions/122/multiplus-inverters-setup-in-split-phase-to-match.html
  7. It's not what everyone would do but I installed a Woodford frost free valve.
  8. Wallace is another diesel option. https://www.scanmarineusa.com/products/heaters/ and Propex if you have propane https://www.propexheatsource.com/
  9. Most welding cable is no UL listed. Without a UL there's no way of knowing what the % of copper is. The UL must be printed on the wire. The UL for welding cable is UL1276 ....FYI...UL1276 welding cable is not NEC approved for fixed of portable applications Tinned coated marine wire is UL1426. Wire for the solar installations is UL4730
  10. Nothing catastrophic other than that BB doesn't provided any info.
  11. 200W is allot of power to put towards batteries while dry camping in the winter.
  12. RVs are the worst of the worst construction. Of this bumper pulls are the bottom of the pile with 5ths being slightly better. Bunkhouse trailers are never built well...manufactures build bunkhouse trailers to fit a family budget. We bought a 5th and installed bunks in it. I would never have a RV delivered. My buddy's parents just bought their 4th RV. After going through it for 1/2 hour they found so many issued they asked if a PDI had been done. The response "We let the owners do the PDI". If and I mean IF everything was assembled the way is should then I'd rate **Arctic Fox (not what it use to be) 5% above GD Momentum which is 5-10% above Outdoors RV which is 10% above GD Imagine and Nash.....BUT.....RVs are never assembled properly. That's why a inspection is so important. Never pay for a new RV unless it has an 8-16 hour inspection in which each and every compartment was open and the water system was pressure tested. If I found a roof (caulking) issue, water leak, frame/slide issue or bad electrical connections I'd refuse to take delivery. You'll be allot further ahead buying used. The first 3 years are the highest depreciation and the previous owner(s) gets to sort out any issues. Putting a skirt around the RV helps allot with the heat. **The issue with AF is they are build heavy (more than the brochure weight) which affects the carrying capacity. AF should have bigger axles.
  13. I think there's more to what Mark is saying and allot is being spent on Lithium PR. I know of 3 BB failures. The customer service was 110% and the batteries they received were upgraded to the latest version so the people would give BB good reviews but it doesn't change the fact that the batteries failed. When I was looking installing Victron Lithium the battery protection system (on top of the BMS) was extensive. I dropped the idea of Lithium once I got into figuring the heating below 34F and shutting the solar system down if the batteries were below 34F.
  14. Make sure to leave room around it for the 6/8ga wiring and getting a screw driver to the terminals top and bottom. The switch below has 2-50 (6ga) amp and 1- 30 (10ga) amp inputs. I was able to cut the hole in the PVC box to rotate the switch and be able to cover it with the face plate. The LED indicator lights on the BSS switch interfered with the Progressive EMS so the LEDs were disconnected. ****System says the image limit is 102kB but the image is only 54kb
  15. I had a Smartplug on our trailer. The cords are fantastic even at 15F. The issue had was working with dogbone adapters. I never wanted to buy the expensive Smartplug male cord ends so I would drag out the 50' Smart cord then plug the dogbone into it. Smartplugs are great for boats where the shore plugs are the No.1 cause of fires but I haven't heard of the issue with RVs
  16. When I added a 2nd 50A I found the SS shore power receptacles to be $$$ but the guts were the same as the plastic ones. I used the plastic one. Also went with a KISS manual transfer switch. https://www.bluesea.com/products/9019/AC_Rotary_Switch_-_OFF_%2B_2_Positions_240V_AC_65A On both receptacles I installed a 50A GFCI breaker.
  17. On 3 sets of Michelin tires we ended up with 1/2 to 2/3 of the warrantied tread life. Each time Michelin authorized the dealer to give us 20% off but only if we bought Michelin tires. The 3rd set of Michelins were replaced with BF Goodrich KO2. The 4th set of Michelin that came from the factory on our truck are down to 2-4/32" after 20,000 towing miles. These will replaced with TOYO AT2 for summer use. The KO2 will continue to be used in the winter as they've proven to be an excellent tire when towing in the snow. I know a couple of people that run the KO2 all year but not for towing. I don't notice any difference in tire noise because of the diesel engine in the truck. https://broadmag.com/toyo-open-country-at2-vs-bfg-at-ko2/
  18. Just read this. We've traveled somewhere between 600 and 800 miles on FSR this year. The trailer has IS. On 1 road we bent 1/4" plates supporting the airbags on the truck. No damage to the trailer. I'm wondering if 4k suspension has enough travel.
  19. Thanks Chad and John. At this time of year we consume +/- 65Ah (845Wh) from dusk to dawn. Our solar will then bring the batteries into float around 10:00AM. One could say the power for the rest of the day is being wasted. Better to waste it keeping thing quiet. I was looking at line losses. Ten guage wire will carry 10 amps of 120V for 200' with a 5% loss. I'm thinking this might run a 40A battery charger/converter. Didn't think of the portable solar. In our last trailer a LED light caught fire close to a Victron 150/100 controller. Insurane wrote the controller it off due to smoke damage but the electronics are sealed and it still works. We already carry portable panels. This may work!
  20. We are drycamping at beautiful site next to a lake. The only thing wrong with the site is the people that pulled in 3 days ago are running a generator (Champion) for 4 hours either morning, afternoon or evening. The generator is not being loaded which makes me think it is only used to charge batteries. This situation has me thinking about how a solar system could be used to charge the battries in another trailer that is 200'-300' away. I'm thinking 110v extension cords from an inverter to a battery charger or the shore power plug in the other trailer. Ideas?
  21. Just to be clear XPS isn't Urethane Spray Foam. You don't want to use spray foam in an RV unless there is a properly installed / 100% sealed vapor barrier. I've seen mold around the staple holes in a vapor barrier. Even the best foam spayed under ideal conditions is 5% open cell which means the foam will absorb 5% moisture/condensation. Also avoid ISO Board. ISO Board works great to insulate against heat (sun) but not cold. It contains a gas that when cold turn to liquid thus reducing the R rating.
  22. ALLOY

    Condensation

    We have a humidity guage hanging on the wall to tell us when things need to be vented or to turn the dehumidifier on.
  23. I ran a test a couple of months ago on some PVC board. Tried silicone, construction adhesive, 2 types of urethane. The only thing that didn't pull off the PCV was Geocel ProFlex RV. Proflex takes 5-6 days to cure. Use some Eternabond DoubleStick tape to hold the vent to the wall then caulk it with ProFlex RV.
  24. Good fix. I used a similar product 2 years ago in a leaking log splitter even though it used AW32 hyd oil.
×
×
  • Create New...