NeverEasy

The difference between the hydraulic hookup and the air hookup is simply the type of transducer that is T'ed into the line that provides pressure to the brakes be it hydraulic brake fluid or air. Everything else is the same. If there is nothing in the network jack [ I think it is an RJ-11 (telephone) vice an RJ-45 (network)]then I am surprised if you would have any brake control by pushing the brake pedal. I would think that the only thing you would have is the manual override on the MaxBrake Controller. This might help you find the cable to plug into the MaxBrake Controller. On the other end of the network cable is a transducer that T's into the air line. Take the dash cover off in front of the steering wheel. There should be an airline T in the line (black) just before the air pressure switch that turns on your brake lights. Also, there should be a red wire from the MaxBrake Controller connected to the Normally Open side of the air pressure switch. I troubleshoot a lot of trucks and trailers at Truck/RV rallies. To really test a braking system, you need an DC clamp-on meter. With the trailer hooked up to the truck, clamp that over the BLUE wire anywhere you can get to it. Start the truck. Mash on the brake pedal. Slide the manual override. Both of those should show current flow. It will be very low with air over electric over hydraulic disk trailer brakes. About .8 amps on my two axle system. I might add that the WHITE wire (ground) on the system is just as important as the BLUE wire. A poor ground will only allow a faulty amount of current on the BLUE wire. The AC clamp-on meters are inexpensive. The DC clamp-on meters are coming down in price. I use one like this: https://www.amazon.com/BSIDE-ACM91-Auto-Ranging-Temperature-Capacitance/dp/B07G84XDWH/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=10MXZ7UYXP47Y&keywords=dc%2Bclamp%2Bon%2Bammeter&qid=1651884170&sprefix=dc%2Bclamp%2Bon%2Caps%2C171&sr=8-1-spons&smid=A1UAQ41KV8L37J&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExREJJTVkwQlNTOTdOJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDI2NDA5MU9CVTBaNThTVFVaRSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTYxMzg3NU5YWDhDNDU3Q1RCJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1 Mine, too. 610K on it. Still running great.

This is weird, I can't post the link here. Everything I do just downloads a pdf. For information on the Maxbrake controller (installation and calibration) do a Google search on "maxbrake controller manual" (without the quotes). Hopefully, you will see a link to "Pressure Sensor Installation" or "CM MaxBrake 3 Installation Manual April 2012.cdr". Either one of those links will download a manual. You will have to ignore the hydraulic connection to the brake lines. Neither of those show connecting to air lines. I have my original manual. The wiring and calibration is identical. What you going to do with your old MaxBrake Controller? I have not run into anyone on the forum running the same truck as me. '01 Volvo VNL 660. Is your engine Detroit S60 Series?

IMO, the only thing that matters is the difference in elevation between the pump and the tank. That distance equates to the lift needed. For example, my RV fresh water tank is about 12 feet aft of my pump but only 2 feet blow it and it works fine. I think you should be fine. The only issue I have had with priming is on older pumps where the diaphragms have set for a long period dry. I have had to pull off the output of the pump and suck on the pump to aid in priming. Chet

Seems some states are on a hunt for $. Might want to print this information and have it in your truck. Exemptions to the Federal Motor Carrier Safety Regulations (FMCSR) | FMCSA (dot.gov) Chet

Hmmm...I use mine a lot and found it very useful. Have used it on many rigs at rallies. Are you using the headset? Pretty useless without it.

??? Don't need engine running. Just pressurize and listen.

Pulling a vacuum on the system will tell you if you have a leak but will not help isolate it. You need to pressurize the system and use a Whisper leak detector and bubble soap to find a leak. Here is a link to a post of how to do that.

Don't know where some of the above info is coming from so I went to the on-line site ($20). I looked in several states and did not see one that said Class A only. I did find one in Indiana that was a Cummins Employee campground or for anyone with a Cummins in their rig. They do state if the site may be "adult oriented" or "family oriented" as it applies to those CGs. Here are three samples of info I pulled up and copied here. Note the Roanoke entry, that sounds like a CG one of us would not want to use, nor would any Class A. Don't need the book. With a hot spot, we have access almost anywhere. Big Rigs is just another useful tool. MEMPHIS AREA, Tennessee:The Mississippi River is the focal point here and the majority of the sites are 100 feet or better. You’ll have a front row seat in partially paved sites #67 thru 75. In the second row - sites #55 thru 62 (#55 is paved). Also in this row is a paved 75 footer - #65. In the third row - #40 thru 53 (#40, 42 & 53 are partially paved). The section on the south side has spaces in the 100 foot range with the river to the rear. Sixty feet of the pad is paved at sites #92 thru 100. If you are a coach you may face the river and run your hookups to the patio side of your rig. The next row over from the river are 120 foot sites #80 thru 89. FF: Any site listed except #67, 73 & 75. Wi-Fi. Paved entrance road. Call for reservations during the months of April and May to insure opening/availability. Deer Run: A state park type setting on 200 acres. Section A might be the best choice...sites #330 and 331 are 150 feet with the lake on your patio side while #332 is 110 feet along with 333, 335 & 336 at 140 feet. In the 70-80 range area back-ins #300 thru 309. Over in Section B are #6 & 7 at 120 feet while #4 & 5 are in the 150 foot range. Back-in #80 is 70 feet, #9 - 65 feet and we were advised #17 thru 20 were going to be lengthened. FF: All sites listed. Wi-Fi. Secured entry. ROANOKE, West Virginia Here you will be situated in a pristine setting along the lake. The trade off is you will need respectable driving skills to get into your 30 amp back-in site. Site #10 is a 100 footer with a lake view, while #6, 14, 18, 21 & 22 also have views of the lake but are in the 40-45 foot range. For a 60 footer try #24 thru 28. Wi-Fi in lodge area only. Paved streets and sites. No laundry. Also 190 room lodge. Arnold Palmer 18 hole golf course. Go off season. Open 3/1 - mid-November.

We have been using Big Rigs online and the book for several years. It is great. It is not geared to Class As specifically. It simply gives the dimensions of those sites they consider "big". They give directions and suggestions for which sites to choose based on length. We also use the Resource Guide RV site, too. Using either source, we still open Google Maps and use the satellite view to look at turns and site length. Google has tools to put in a start point and measure to another point. That has been discussed here and at HDT rallies. The Big Rig folks will take suggestions for input (we have made some) but will only add them after they survey the RV park. The only drawback I have heard is that if you forget your password, they will send it back to you in a open email. Therefore, do not use a generic password that you use anywhere else. Then change the password of Big Rigs if you have to request it sent to you.

Ditto what Carl said. I took a 1/2" open end wrench, cut the end off, turned it 90 degrees and welded it back on. That allows me to tighten the crossfires on the inner dually. Not enough room if you just bend the wrench. Chet

Concur with GlennWest. The difference between my 2011 and 2016 is amazing. Don't know when Smart went to the newer setup. Someone on here will know.

There is an RV museum that was interesting.

Brakes apply with emergency breakaway. Good. Jim's recommendation to wiggle the connector is a good place to start. Might have someone step on the truck brakes while doing it and see if the brakes activate at any certain position. To further isolate: On the truck side, locate the connector's key. Assuming it to be at the top, the bottom left pin is the truck ground. The bottom right is the trailer brakes signal. Attach a meter (on DC volts) or a test light between those bottom pins. Have someone press the controller override or mash the brakes. You should see the truck's full voltage or a bright light as this is open circuit voltage (no trailer plugged in). This will check truck ground and controller output wire (blue) for the truck. On the trailer side: Hold the trailer connector with the key at the top. The pin on the top-left is the trailer's 12VDC. The brake pin is on the bottom-left. Short those two together and the trailer's hydraulic brake controller should activate just as it did when you pulled the emergency breakaway. PM: I recommend DeOxit contact cleaner/enhancer on both connectors. All sorts on Amazon. Just a tiny bit of this stuff has worked well for me. Pot a drop on both connectors and push them together and pull apart a couple of times. https://www.amazon.com/DeoxITLiquid-squeeze-tube-100-solution/dp/B0015A5AAY/ref=sr_1_25?crid=37LBXSHQUAUNS&keywords=deoxit&qid=1640193034&sprefix=deoxit%2Caps%2C78&sr=8-25 Chet

There is always something, hey Carl! That is how I derived my user name. All organizers for the rallies have our sincere thanks for what you do. I have a 10 x 20 tent with sides that is fairly durable. It has been used at Richmond NASCAR races many times and has survived some nasty weather. It has sides and ends. We no longer attend the RIR races in a large group and can bring it and donate to the cause. I know it is not near big enough for the big gatherings but might do for the smaller presentations. There is a 20 x 40 tent on ebay for $1400. Says it will seat 56 with round tables, 64 with rectangular. Also says it is "heavy duty". I would be willing to donate 1/4 the cost. All of that comes with the caveat: We may not be able to attend. We are still homebound with an aging mother-in-law. Getting a caretaker in place for ten days is again, NeverEasy. Chet

Follow this link for o-ring part numbers and a place to get them. Chet

IMO, the damage is on no concern. I added a "drop hitch preventer" to mine. Picture attached, I hope.

Assuming they are 1/4 inch: Amazon.com: MVP 10 Flat Single Fem to Double Male .250" Disconnect Terminal Adapter 1/4" Tab : Industrial & Scientific

I think a lot of retailers are venturing into cheap Chinese junk. Northern Hydraulics (now Northern Tool) went that way. I don't trust anything from Harbor Freight if it has an off/on switch.

I got an ad from NewEgg about a meter that was reasonably priced at $29. I bought it to try before putting anything up here. The price is less than I have found other places. I demonstrate the DC clamp-on amp function to about everyone I troubleshoot for/with. The AC clamp-on function is also very useful, too, in an AC environment. In addition, this meter has a set of leads that let it function the same as any VOM. It reads frequency, too. It has a Non-contact Voltage (NCV) function to look for an AC source as well. It feels like a quality unit. Good Christmas stocking stuffer. I have no monetary return from NewEgg. They just get some of mine. tacklife voltmeter | Newegg.com On edit: I noticed the sale ends in 13 hours. That would be about 2 A.M. on 02 Nov. Chet.

Make/model/engine/year would help.

Thanks! I will add a T20 torx to the car's took kit. Might even remove the solenoid as a preemptive measure. Had read on the internet that the sticking key is a common problem but none of them tied it to the rubber boot as a cause.

Deb and I are on our way. Departed VA on Wednesday. Stayed at Wytheville, VA that night. Now at Clarksville TN RV park. Will be at Springfield, MO KOA tomorrow night and then on to Hutch on Saturday. See you soon! Chet

This is where they should be: ECR 2021 - East Coast HDT Rally but the pictures did not open for me either. They did earlier this year. Chet

Years ago, I replaced everything involved on a Gen 1, including the cross-member. I posted a rather lengthy how to on this forum. It can be found via the "Whats New" in the Resource Guide. Try this link: Replacing Gen 1 Cab Air Bags | Heavy Haulers RV Resource Guide (hhrvresource.com) The biggest problem most have is the captive nuts inside the cab tubes. The bolts usually won't let go and the nuts twist off the welds holding them to the tubes. I cut off the bolts and removed the nuts. Welded new nuts to a piece of steel and slide it inside the square tube.

This what is my #1 Edition? Edition #1 Package Panorama Roof, Fog Lamps, Rain & Light Sensor, Wheels: 16" 8-Y-Spoke Alloy, LED Lighting, Daytime Running Lights w/Integrated Light Guide, LED Tail Lights, Edition #1 Sticker, Specific Floor Mats, Urban, Alloy Pedals w/Rubber Studs, Chrome Tip Exhaust, Lowered Suspension (-10mm), Shift Paddles, Tires: 16"