NeverEasy

Where in VA. I am in Virginia Beach. A couple of friends with HDT rigs nearby. I recommend going to the East Coast Rally in Crossville, TN, Apr 17-Apr 24. A lot of good info specifically aimed at newbie want-a-bes. It will help you decide if you want to do this. Hurry, it is filling up. There are a couple of cabins to rent at the site (Deer Run RV Resort) if you don't have an RV to park onsite.

Called Deer Run today. Only sites open are those across the bridge. We are still iffy. Have not found a mother-in-law sitter. I have asked to be put on the wait list for any site on the other side. Currently assigned site #2 on the Maple Loop.

Today the burglar will sue you and win. Such is the state of our nation.

More like this one? 2008-2016 SMART FORTWO LEFT DRIVER SIDE DOOR FRAME W/ WINDOW REGULATOR OEM | eBay

Ouch! I just put a small round convex mirror on mine to help with that blind spot. I had two close calls prior. I hope this fixes it. You might have to tie the other side to a tree to keep the thing from sliding. Good luck with the fix.

Carl: I did not try to pry more information from him. His email and phone number are on a post that he submitted when stuff went on sale following his decision to quit the RV life. I hesitate to repost such info but will PM you. Since I have you on-line, we will attempt to make the ECR. Deb's mother is now 90 and needs more attention than in the past. The lady who could watch out for her if we needed to get away a few days came down with COVID. We will not attend the ECR if we have not been vaccinated and have someone to care for mom.

Thanks, Bob. Posted lots of pictures before and never had to do anything but cut and paste. I will give it a try. Russel Barnes' slanted deck load.

I contacted Russ Barnes. He sent a photo of one of the few times he actually loaded the Smart before health issues that caused him to forego full timing. He reports that the issue in now under control but they are staying close to known medical care. He sold the truck to someone in TN. [URL=https://i.imgur.com/TbVm3AI.jpg "target=new"][IMG]https://i.imgur.com/TbVm3AIl.jpg "border=0"[/IMG][/URL]

Here is one instance of a slanted deck mount:

Might want to look at this post on Fodor’s: route 9 kentucky - Fodor's Travel Talk Forums Wikipedia says this about Route9: Kentucky Route 9 - Wikipedia

I like the "very few windows" approach. Better insulation. Fewer leak possibilities. Stronger. If you want to see what is outside, install large screens displays with cameras. Then you can play any video for the scenery you want. Besides, what does the DW do with windows? Covers them up. I like it!

If you want real torque out of a battery impact, the Milwaukee M18 Fuel is the way to go. The new one will even communicate with a smart phone. 1400 ft/lbs nut removal. The big jobs like truck lug nuts will need a torque amplifier. They are relatively inexpensive and will safe you a lot of grief. If you get a torque amplifier then any make of battery powered impact will finish the job, allowing you to stay Dewalt.

Please disregard. We found what we are looking for. Happy Thanksgiving to all!

Any chance of some kind of liquid running down the throttle cable into the pedal position sensor? I sprayed kids bubble soap onto the wire bundle above the sensor to find an air leak. That ran down the cable and into the sensor and made the sensor fail. I replaced it.

You should start a new thread. You sort of high-jacked your own by switching from fuses to ABS. You might get more help from others if they are not following this link. I will give you a starting point. Basics as I understand them. There are two types of systems, Bendix and Wabco in use on Volvo. Both function the same using an ABS ECU. The ABS ECU (the brains) should be mounted on the frame, left side, forward of the rear wheels. The ECU gets an input from each wheel by monitoring the wheel's speed with sensors on the wheel's hub. That is where most of the problems reside. The rotational part is a toothed wheel that passes a magnetic pickup. As a tooth passes the magnet it induces a pulse that is sent to the ECU. The ECU compares each wheel's rotation to the rest of the wheels and makes decisions and sends an alarm if things are not working as they should. It then attempts to keep wheels from locking up during braking by using a modulator at each wheel to decrease breaking on a wheel that is turning slower than the others. The ECU also monitors the rear wheels speed difference to incorporate traction control. Traction control is the opposite. If a traction control function is installed and switched on, the ECU uses the modulator to slow down a rear wheel that is turning faster than its counterpart on the other side thereby forcing the differential to apply even drive power to both sides of the truck. When removing an axle, the sets of wheel sensors (magnetic pickups) and modulators on one of the axles no longer have a use. The modulator is an output of the ECU so removing it does not matter. However, the ECU is still looking for an input from the pickup sensors on the removed axle. The proper fix would likely be a change of the ECU from a 6x4 to a 4x2 (there are schematics for both so that makes me believe they exist) but that costs money. The easy fix was to move the rear wheel sensors to the singled axle. That way the ECU is fooled into getting pulses on both sets of sensors, left and right. I have not tried this, but I think an equivalent fix would be to simply parallel the wires from the removed axle sensors to the working axle sensors. Those wires are not polarity sensitive so there should not be an issue with that. The only concern would be signal strength but I believe there is enough signal strength to let the ECU believe that it has 4 wheels turning. I put that here because someone may have trashed your back set of sensors. You may only find wires. This is where I would start. Get the rear wheels off the ground. Disconnect the sensor on a wheel and put a meter (set to low voltage if not Auto-Ranging) on the two pins of the sensor. Spin the wheel. There should be some low voltage present while the wheel is spinning. My guess would be from 1.5 to 3 volts. Then, do it on the front wheels. If all is well there, you need to find the sensors (or wires) for the removed rear wheel and get them to lie to the ECU that they have a turning wheel.

Tom, As a side note, you now have two places to attach small electronics devices that will be fused by F12 and F27 and get their ground from that connector as well. I am going to find mine again and use them to attach the DW's charging station for phone and electronics. F27 should be hot at all times. Its source is from the battery connection on the starter, through a fusible link, through Maxi Fuse 10 (50 amps), the then to F27. F12 is switched on by the ignition key. Its source is the Ignition Power Relay PR3, through Maxi Fuse 3 (40 amp), and then to F12. Chet

Tom, You are welcome. I know of no other systems that F12 and F27 feed. You don't need the Qualcomm. I took mine out years ago. You can thank Mark Bruss for the schematics. Yes, I don't think those fuses would cause a a loss of power. One Miller Lite should we ever cross paths will be sufficient. It was actually a pleasant journey for me. I never fail to learn something and always live up to my handle. Chet

Carl, Did you get a Non-Contact Voltage tester that I demo-ed at the ECR. Easy to test where power is being lost without opening anything. Just touch the cable. https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-NCVT-2-Standard-Protection/dp/B004FXJOQO/ref=sr_1_11?crid=2AEZSQZ1LAC7W&dchild=1&keywords=ncv+voltage+tester&qid=1604864011&sprefix=ncv+voltage%2Caps%2C262&sr=8-11 If you happen to have bought the DC Clamp-on meter I also demo-ed, it has a NCVT function.

Big news here, I think: F12 and F27 feed the QualComm Antenna. They are shown on schematic V3_PV776_370_98094_1_QualComm_VN_B2_98.pdf. The path for F27 and F12 is out on wire 950 and 951 through Connector 1 on pins C and B. On the antenna side of that connector are yellow and white wires from the fuses and a black wire for ground. Pin D is unused. The connector is located under the dash on the center/right side. Should be easy to locate once you see a 4-pin connector with a white wire, yellow wire, and a black wire, and one hole unused. Click For Full-Size Image. Click For Full-Size Image.

Resistance of .85 ohms would equal 14.11 amps at 12VDC (Current = volts/resistance). The load sides being common is not a good thing. And both being at .85 ohms resistance to ground is weird. Your problem is not necessarily between the fuse panel and the display. I really need to find these two fuses in a schematic.

Thanks for the info. That puts you in 98 category for schematics. I will look more when I get home this P.M. That makes F30 your Flash-to-Pass fuse, not F27.

I have searched through all the schematics I can find on the Gen 1 Volvo. I cannot find where either the F12 or F27 fuse feeds on a truck built before 11/99. Is your build date on your 99 before November? The only place I can find them is on the starter/alternator schematic and they are dead-ended there. A good place to start might be to check the resistance to ground on the load side of the fuses with the truck batteries disconnected. Check again with the switch on but batteries disconnected. Is there a constant ground on the load side of the fuses or only when the truck gets turned on? Have you tried my suggestion to put a lamp with 12VDC on one side and the other on the load side of the fuse ? If the bulb lights, there is a ground on the load side. Put some long leads on the bulb and take it with you to the spot you are wiggling. Try it with the truck batteries disconnected, switch on and switch off. Is there a difference in the intensity of the light? Sounds like a nightmare. Wish I was there to help.

For schematics, Dale Bruss has them on his site. Follow the link via the HHRG, Under Repairs/Maintenance, click Volvo Schematics. Thanks, Dale!

The V5_PV776_370_99218_2_Headlights_VN_B5_99 schematic has a little note beside F 27 that says prior to 11/99 it was F 30. I have yet to find a schematic with F12 nor a _98 schematic with either in a circuit. The Start and Charging schematic has both but are dead-ended. A suggestion on a way to proceed. Attempting to isolate location of a shorted wire. The correct way to look for this would be to use a “time domain reflectometer”. The ones for checking metallic wires are expensive. They will tell how far away from a wire end a short exists. This may be worth a try. The theory is that the fuse blows due to a dead short either to a wire in the harness or to some place on the chassis. With a way to monitor the wire’s impedance, a person might be able to locate the short by wiggling the harness and watching for an impedance change. A good digital voltmeter would work. Stick one end of the meter on ground and the other in the load side of the fuse. One person watches the meter and another start wiggling. Any change in impedance can show a possible location of a problem. This would even allow a person to disconnect plugs until the ground goes away. An alternative would be to use a simple test light that has an incandescent light bulb. Put one end of the light to a known good 12 VDC source and the other in the load side of the fuse. Bulb should light. Do the wiggle thing watching for a change in intensity of the light. Probably best done at night.

In Windows, open PAINT, click on resize. Don't know about MAC.