NeverEasy

There is alignment and u-joint phasing. Might be out-of-phase if the lengthened drive shaft got welded out-of-phase. Do a search on "driveline u joint alignment". Lots of info. There is a driveline operating angle calculator here. https://spicerparts.com/calculators/driveline-operating-angle-calculator

Follow Jack's instructions. Works great.

Good news! Thanks for the update.

Check fuses. On my Gen 1, the fuse blew and kept blowing. I ohmed the solenoid coil and it looked good. I put on a new air solenoid anyway but it still blew. I ended up putting in a 12 V relay close to the solenoid and used the normal signal to the solenoid as a control voltage. I fused the relay source voltage at the same amperage as the one in the dash. It did not blow that fuse. Magic!

This may be a connection right behind the DID. I did not get the picture of the rear end, just the NO DATA error but most of the gages dropped to zero. Like yours, this error came and went while driving. I could tilt the DID forward and wiggle the top//left connector and duplicate the problem.

I can't get past the Hayes power being disconnected and getting any voltage at the trailer connector blue wire to ground. I am assuming the trailer is disconnected and you are measuring at the pins on the connector, not the back-side or at the jackalopee. If this were mine, I would start by disconnecting the TRUCK side trailer brake wire to the Jackalopee. If the voltage is still there, disconnect the Aux 12VDC from the TRUCK side of the Jackalpeee. Remember, if the trailer is disconnected from the truck, a normal condition is to read 12VDC (open circuit voltage) at the truck's trailer connector. This stumps a lot of people. Basically, with no current flow, all the electrons flow to the open circuit and stack up there and you will see battery voltage stacked up there waiting for some place to go. Call me if you still have the number. Chet

Oh dear. I am feeling bad. The Hayes worked fine for me, just put out too much when converted to electric over hydraulic. It only takes .8 amps to lock up the brakes with hydraulic controller and the Hayes does not have a limiter. "When I check the truck side RV plug without the Hayes powered, I get 8v DC. With the Hayes connected, I get 12v at the RV plug between the brake wire and ground wire." Does this mean black wire is disconnected (or fuse pulled) and you get 8VDC? Where would it be coming from? With the 12 VDC black wire disconnected, the voltage cannot be coming from the Hayes. You would have to add the Jackolopee to this diagram. Click For Full-Size Image.

My new one does not have the limiter. Insurance would only "replace" so I have a new Trailer Saver although it has three air bags and is rated heavier. I will have to look into adding the travel limiter. Now, for RandyA: Are you willing to pull out one or both the modified pins to check for any signs of failure? Any idea how many miles you have on the modified hitch?

The result but perhaps a contributing factor to the end result. The cause was some errors committed by DW. She was in a construction zone, doing 5 under the posted limit in Oklahoma, I-40. She saw a sign with an arrow that indicated a need to turn right. She did and then realized it was an exit. She started to turn back, decided it was too late and jammed on the brakes. The trailer decided to pass the truck. We know it was perpendicular to the truck at one point because the roof of the trailer took out an exit speed limit sign 15 feet off to the side (big dent in roof of trailer). Also a blown front left tire (18 months old) on the trailer may have contributed to the rollover. It was on the top of the trailer as the trailer was on its right side. The rim was mangled to pieces. Don't know when it blew during the event. When it blew, the TSPS went off and I jumped out of the sleeper. The Volo barely twitched during the whole event. Another note is that arrow sign was not accompanied by an exit sign. We looked at all those on the rest of the trip and they all were paired. The worst result is that Deb will no longer drive the rig. I did not blame her for any of it. Stuff happens. There is a dash cam video on Youtube. Look for "Volvo Pulling Everest". Watch the right-front mirror. Only time you can see the trailer come around the truck.

Pictures of a Trailer Saver and Keystone Everest wreck. I probably posted the pictures earlier. Truck weight is 18,000. Everest weight 14,400. Smart around 1,900. Click For Full-Size Image. Click For Full-Size Image. I have often wondered if a couple of mods to the Trailer Saver would have prevented the rollover. It might have meant taking the truck over with the trailer. With the weight difference, I don't think the truck would have rolled if the hitch held. The Binkley Head did not let go. I had to pull the bolts in the trailer hitch out to get the trailer separated from the hitch. The welds on the Trailer Saver broke. I inspected them and they appeared to have been solid welds. The mod I would propose would be to limit the upward travel of the swing arm. If the back of the swing arm would have stayed within the frame rails and not put all the leverage of the swing arm on the front welds, the hitch might not have failed. The head of this hitch is the one I modified for Randy A.

I, too, poked around in it. Looks good. Did you use an old DB. The state info in VA does not have the latest info.

I use the HHRV a lot. I use my desktop and laptop. I commend you for hosting the HHRV and hope it will continue. If there are costs, the users should chip in some support $.

https://www.state.sd.us/eforms/secure/eforms/E1827V3-AffidavitForTruckTractorConvertedToAMotorhome.pdf

Visio. Bought it here. https://www.digitalmaze.com/ Use this tutorial to get started.

Carl, Here is a diagram with an auto transfer switch to bypass the inverter should it no longer provide AC by either its normal bypass or its inverter process. If you are only powering your frig, 14 AWG wire will be ok but I never use it. I use 12 AWG wire. Its cost is not all that much more. I showed it adding a breaker to feed the auto transfer switch so that you can kill the inverter breaker. It will keep the frig running while you repair/replace the inverter. Click For Full-Size Image.

I have a Hayes I could sell you. $.50 on the dollar. Used but in good shape. It is the latest model that I bought to replace the old, poor functioning one. It worked well enough on my air over electric but when I upped the trailer to air over hydraulic disc (more like air over electric over hydraulic disc) it was way too aggressive. I had to put a stopper on the manual slide to keep it from locking up the trailer brakes. It is still mounted in the truck. I found a new Max Brake controller that someone bought and never installed it. Use this search string in Google: site:https://www.rvnetwork.com Hayes

Carl, Your inverter/charger should be fed off a AC breaker in your main panel. Turn it off vice disconnecting service to the whole RV. See the diagram up above. It would be the top breaker in the diagram. Further, if you are interested in a bypass for the system, Jim from above suggested a manual transfer option. I would opt for an automatic function in the event of loss while you were not in residence. You don't need a big unit, 30 amp would do. I would look to use this one and make it the inverter output land on the "generator" input, thus, if the inverter was working, it would default to the inverter output vice bypass.: https://www.amazon.com/Technology-Research-41300-Transfer-Switch/dp/B00IYUPRUG/ref=sr_1_13?crid=334OGFZK0EUPG&dchild=1&keywords=30+amp+transfer+switch&qid=1598558375&sprefix=30+amp+transfer+switch%2Caps%2C1395&sr=8-13

Carl, I like to start with a layout we can understand and go from there. The "Pass-through relay" I show in this drawing is actually an electronic device that has something like a 50 micro-second switch over rate. Most electronic devices (like televisions) won't even know it lost and then regained power. Without the solar input, is this what your system looks like? I don't know what happens at total failure of the inverter. I would hope that it fails-safe to the by-pass mode. Have you turned it off to see if AC power will still transfer through it? The one on my truck does. If so, you probably don't need a bypass unless you need power while it is being replaced. Click For Full-Size Image.

Check battery voltage in the gage mode. When my alternator started to fail, my 2001 Volvo did that.

Thanks, Pat. Electric motor on pump is too big and heavy. It was handy and had a pulley on it. The two lines that are connected to the thru-chassis connectors are really not necessary. If they needed to be high in the frame to prevent siphoning then they could have just been tied up there. Don't understand the reasoning. It made the job twice as hard. We are OK here. Still staying isolated. Only went on that one trip out to Natural Bridge, VA. Bought 8.64 acres about 1/4 mile from Natural Bridge and the Upper James River. We like the area and go canoeing there when we can. For the most part, mother and the pandemic has us sequestered. I did buy a 12-ton, tandem/dually trailer for the back hoe. Blasted it to bare metal and painted it with two-part urethane. Putting the deck on now. Full 2-inch white oak. It weighs 5,000 lbs without the back hoe. Don't think I will be pulling it with my 2500HD Chevy.

On the way back from the western side of Virginia, we developed a fuel leak. We could smell diesel so we pulled over and found it. It was on the output of the secondary fuel filter. I cleaned it with brake cleaner to get it as dry as possible and wrapped it tightly with plastic tape. Then put pipe clamps and tie wraps on it as close to each other as I could get them. We made it home. I started looking for fuel line routing and could not find any diagrams. Nothing in the Resource Guide on fuel. It was difficult to trace the lines as they are bundled with fuel lines, air lines, and electrical runs. On the leaking line, we could not trace it through the zip tied mass. I cut the connector off the leaking line and started pulling it back through the harness. We lost it when it turned up toward the back of the engine. Looking up over the transmission, I found it attached to the back of the engine head. Getting to it was near impossible. I don’t know about other engines but the Detroit Series 60 engine has the supply and return connections on the back of the head which is about 18 inches under the cab. The fuel connections are about a foot down from the top of the rocker cover. While looking at those fuel connections, I saw two thru-chassis connectors with fuel lines on them on a crossmember about 18 inches behind the engine. The rubber looked ok but the connector crimps were corroded nearly off (Canadian truck). The only way to get to all the fuel lines (and that means just the ability to get an open-end wrench on the connector) was to remove the exhaust system from the turbo back. Removing the air cleaner gave access to the back of the turbo. The 5” stainless flex exhaust pipe would not come off so I cut it off with a torch. Getting the connectors off was a challenge. It involved a rope tied to the boxed end of a wrench, one person pulling while the other pried with various devices for leverage. We installed all new lines. We got all lines off and lost a lot of skin in the process. A local shop made us new ones in just a few minutes. I made an electric motor/Sherwood gear pump external pump station with dual filters, pipe, hose, and connectors. We used that to pull fuel through all the lines from the tanks to the input to the truck fuel pump and dump back to the tank to flush those lines. Then it had to be used to prime the truck’s pump. I am posting this as a lesson learned. Any sign of cracked rubber should be looked at. There was no way to see those thru-chassis connectors on a routine examination. This is not a job that can be done on the road. My wife, Deb, was a true champion in helping. I will try to include a diagram of the fuel line routing and a couple of pictures of the lines. It might help someone inspect their lines and know where and what things are. FUEL LINE DIAGRAM Click For Full-Size Image. ENGINE CONNECTIONS Click For Full-Size Image. THRU-CHASSIS Click For Full-Size Image. EXTERNAL PUMP Click For Full-Size Image.

Not much change for us. A bit over a year ago, Deb’s 89-year-old mother moved into our mother-in-law suite so we are stuck at home unless Deb’s sister can come down from PA and sit Mom. We live in the rural part of Virginia Beach, too far for the care givers to help us. I am getting some things done. Got the garden spot tilled and planted potatoes and one row of green beans. Last fall, I bought a 10 ton Back Hoe Pro trailer to haul the back hoe around. It needed a new deck so I had full 2” x 20’ white oak planks cut for it. They are drying along side the fiver while I paint the trailer. Spent the last three days sandblasting it to bare medal. Playing with a 3-D printer in the evenings. Making it print something is easy. Using a CAD program to make something to be printed is the tough part. We are using Fusion 360. It appears to be a good product but the learning curve is pretty steep. Our printer is an original SnapMaker. It will print, lazer engrave, and mill light material. I am interested in the mill function to see if I can engrave brass. Deb is going wild with the print function, printing anything she can find on ThingiVerse.com to print. She has printed some parts for her sock knitting machine that are pretty cool.

Did some shipping with TEMG once and they send adds. I have nothing to do with these folks but thought some of you might be interested. TEMG clean Group Of Volvo 670's Ready To Roll Pricing starting under $20,000 (7) 2015 Volvo 670's 61" Condo Sleepers ISX @ 485 HP 10 Speeds A/S 5th 3.55 RR FOB- CA Miles: 467k, 493k, 516k, 531k, 538k, 561k, 564k More pictures available. Email or Call Josh Joshuamilless@gmail.com 763-232-1736 Thanks TEMG

Thanks! I live in Virginia Beach. Well within driving distance.

Can't make it to the ECR. I would like to know where the salvage yard is. Always interested in a place for parts.