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Steve from SoCal

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About Steve from SoCal

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 05/17/1960

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  • Location
    Woodland Hill, Ca. and Hutchinson Ks.
  • Interests
    Anything that burns fuel, creating gizmos, flyin, floatin, drivin

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  1. Steve from SoCal

    Upgrading to international prostar to pull toy hauler

    Is it a Maxforce or Cummins? Steve
  2. Steve from SoCal


    Different types of tires in the same size would have different ride properties. An open shoulder lug tire will be lumpier than a rib steer. The tread pattern itself is part of it and, the tread interaction with road surfaces and the tire carcass. Steve
  3. Steve from SoCal

    Drilling harden steel?

    You are making this far more difficult than it is. The frame is made of high carbon steel 100-120KSI, the alloy is likely 1027 or there abouts. A common HSS drill bit easily drills the frame, the only difficult part is constant pressure going through the thickness. I have hand drilled 1/2 holes in AR400 with a HSS bit, that is far more difficult material to deal with. Carbide drills work by extreme pressure, without being able to keep the carbide in cold steel it will work harden the hole. That principal applies to all drill methods, carbide just does it faster. I had heard the old adage about using carbide cement drills and tried it, I even sharpened the point. It was a poor excuse for a real carbide drill bit for metals. The grade of carbide is lower and micro-fractures by design not want in high carbon steel. Steve
  4. Steve from SoCal

    Drilling harden steel?

    I would forget the masonry bit, unless you have a diamond wheel carbide is hard to grind. I know "green wheels" work but, they are really for roughing not finish grinding. Besides, a good sharp HSS drill is all that is needed. I mentioned step drilling a couple holes, I did these that way only because I could not put a great deal of pressure on the drill. With a mag drill just spot the hole and drill at size. Annular bits work, they are pretty touchy on anything less than a nice flat surface. Steve
  5. Steve from SoCal

    Drilling harden steel?

    I use regular HSS drill bits, as Charlie mentioned cobalt are good. For small holes 3/8 and under I just use a hand drill, bigger holes a mag drill when I can. I had to drill a couple of 5/8 holes where I couldn't get my mag drill, it was a PITA but they were step drilled 3/8-1/2-5/8. A 1/2" drill motor can break your arm if you are not aware of the situation, never get your arms in a position where the drill can swing into an arm. Steve
  6. Steve from SoCal

    Changing out the STD 5th wheel ????

    I don't really need them. The suggestion was for trucks with tandem rears. My Teton has about 5K on the pin, with that on my suspension the rear is right at 10K. The new project I am working on will be at 10-11K and fully load the rear axle, it is rated at 17K. Even bobtail as I mentioned the truck rides nicely. As I said, flex air is considered the best riding suspension AKA AG380 for our KW fans. Steve
  7. Steve from SoCal

    Wire type

    I'll make this comment, XHHW will bend little easier than THHN. Neither is going to be easy at the sizes used, the XHHW is more abrasion resistant. Steve
  8. Steve from SoCal

    Changing out the STD 5th wheel ????

    Regarding shocks, I was looking at Bilstein shocks for motorhomes, they have no US heavy truck applications on their aftermarket site. A truck with a single rear axle that hauls a trailer with 6K pin weight would be at about the laden weight of an empty trailer. My truck has perhaps the lightest rated suspension Flex-air at 17K and honestly bobtail with about 6K on the rear axle it is not harsh. You guys with heavy tow bodies have an advantage but, the other thing that causes violent shaking is the extreme aft distance from the suspension to the hitch. My truck with 10K+ on the back axle rides as well as any truck. It still has some harsh bumps every once in a while due to road conditions. I was in Michigan a few weeks ago and the roads there had me thinking I was on the Baja 1000! Trucks that are tandem have a much higher rear suspension threshold to allow the air to actually work in the bags. The compression is higher but, the real hit is rebound with little weight. Drag racing shocks for front positions are 90/10 where 90% is compression and 10% rebound to allow the front end to lift. An 80/20 shock inverted would perhaps be a good start for rear shocks on RV trucks. Steve
  9. Steve from SoCal

    Changing out the STD 5th wheel ????

    RJHILL, I guess you don't want to believe the reasons noted, you can do all the tricks you want to the back of your truck. It still wont make towing an RV with a full size non articulating hitch "good" for the trailer. You can ignore the answer I wrote and the other comments about the same issues, directly below mine. I have no interest in any hitch maker or get a commission for offering advise. The basic FACT is the RV trailer are not built like semi trailers nor do they have the strength in the hitch plate to withstand the torsional loads a semi trailer does. The answers are there, disregarding them is your choice. Steve
  10. Steve from SoCal

    8’11” width overall

    I think that law is darn good and still should apply! Steve
  11. Steve from SoCal

    8’11” width overall

    RV's are allowed to have shades extend from the side of a 102" coach body, the 5" may be well inside the mirror so not a big deal width wise in parking. If your truck has west coast mirrors they can stick out quite a bit, aero mirrors not so much. Steve
  12. Steve from SoCal

    Changing out the STD 5th wheel ????

    The more I hear about facebook, twitter et al , the happier I am I never got started Steve
  13. Steve from SoCal

    Changing out the STD 5th wheel ????

    That still doesn't account for the lack of side to side articulation on "most" 5th wheels. The frame of a tractor is far stiffer in roll than a pick up, you can soften up the suspension and still twist an RV frame. There are "some" RV's that can tolerate being towed by a standard 5th wheel, over time even they will likely show stress in the gooseneck area. Another consideration with RV towing, many tow with the hitch mounted well behind the axles, that alone amplifies every bump and jolt regardless of how soft the suspension is. In the end, it IS your choice to use an air ride hitch, soften the suspension or, any other method that is safe to tow YOUR trailer. If you tow with the 5th wheel right over the axle of a single axle tractor with a heavy pin 5K+ you may be OK on flat ground. The frame will still twist going up a driveway, as the truck turns and goes up, the trailer will try to follow the fixed 5th wheel plate. Steve
  14. Steve from SoCal

    T2000 Bumper Hitch Help Needed

    In the pics above you can see the side rails extend down below the hitch plate, the bumper attaches to the truck there. The bumper on my truck is 2X6 and, I had to notch it to clear the pintle hook. I don't have a receiver tube on the back, the pintle comes off and a ball mount bolts to the plate. Steve
  15. Steve from SoCal

    T2000 Bumper Hitch Help Needed

    I made a bolt on hitch plate using 1/2 x 6" bar stock and a 5/8 plate. This is for a 20 ton pintle hitch, 3/8 and 1/2" would work for a 20K trailer. Steve