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Steve from SoCal

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About Steve from SoCal

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    Major Contributor
  • Birthday 05/17/1960

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  • Location
    Woodland Hill, Ca. and Hutchinson Ks.
  • Interests
    Anything that burns fuel, creating gizmos, flyin, floatin, drivin

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  1. Along the lines of Phil's pump bandits. There was a group using a van with a good size pump pulling into closed gas stations and dipping the storage tanks. The cops estimated they stole several thousand gallons of fuel a WEEK As far as fuel bandits, the best story I heard was an old guy Bob Spooner talking about finding a guy steeling fuel from his truck while he was in it. The guy ran to his truck locked himself in and, hid in the sleeper. Spooner was so frustrated he shot the crooks fuel tank. He said he waited around for a while and no cops showed up so he left. A bit down the road a trooper pulled Spooner over, asked him if he was involved in an altercation at a truck stop. Spooner replied yes and told the trooper what happened. The trooper was in contact with another at the truck stop, he had the guy arrested, the cop got state involved for IFTA refunds and on and on. It takes a special kind of dirt bag to steel from somebody right under their nose. Steve
  2. Phil, If you triangulate the outer tray to the points shown, that will stiffen up the whole thing. I am not a fan of cantilevered loads on the very back of a truck body. It can get pretty bouncy. My 2 cents, Steve
  3. Cruise Control, Yea there are a few clunky add on systems but that is IMHO the most problematic thing with mechanical engines. Wipers, electric windows, heated seats can all be done. I actually have a few old cruise servos and modules, thought about trying to set up for a B model. Cat engines are no longer sold for on highway use, they do have great support for old engines. They just cost a bit. I know a guy that just had to do some major work on a BC Cummins, parts are scarce and poor quality for older Cummins. Biggest thing to stay away from are screamin Jimmy's 2 stroke Detroit's are still out there in some older trucks and a lot of buses. Personally, I like small block Cat engines, C12 and C13, enough power for the lighter loads RV's haul, the Acert's have their issues but, overall pretty good. Stay FAR away from the late ones with DPF. Steve
  4. Roger, How low are the boxes aired up ? Phil, My rear body is actually saddle bags on the frame. Your truck has a body, are you going to cantilever off the frame? The hitch on my truck is not far back 8~10" behind the axle, trailer clearance is close. That is with a 90" wide straight body, a gen box alone would be about 48~56" wide? Steve
  5. Phil, Are you done as a deputy? How is the Ravelco different than a Lowjack? Steve
  6. Jon, The bumper is 14 at ride height at the bottom. In the pictures above the vertical brackets are are lower. The chalk line in the bottom pic is where the bottom of the bumper is. Steve
  7. I put a 30 gallon poly water tank under the frame rails behind the axle on my truck. Your truck has at least twice the rails extending back, there are 80~100 gallon tanks on ebay that are about the right size. I hung the tank in a saddle mount against the frame.
  8. Very nice work, why such heavy plate for the hitch? You have quite the shop and skill's what do you do ? Steve
  9. I don't know about YOUR Volvo, many older cars and trucks have a resistor pack in the HVAC plenum to control fan speed. That or the fan motor has given up the ghost? Steve
  10. There is a video on it from last year, said it would be on sale 1st quarter so just a bit late.
  11. There were a few older 45-48' Great Danes and Dorsey's on Racing Junk a while back. Lot's of tractor pullers use them and they sell pretty cheap. Buy a 4 post lift and make yourself a stacker, the biggest thing to look for is one with side doors. Drop frame vans come in many flavors, the ones with 17.5 tires have the most inside height 125-127" I am using one as a shell for a 5th wheel camper with a garage. The trailer itself is going to be twice as heavy as a race car trailer and 10X as strong. Even a 30 year old trailer that is not rusted will be superior to a production car trailer. IMHO Steve
  12. Troy, The Volvo web site shows the newer short sleeper cab at 156" and with the cab extensions 164". The first number is what you want to consider swing clearance. That sounds encouraging BUT, a race trailer with the pin at or near the front needs the distance from the pin and some margin to turn. A 102" wide trailer would need 51" plus some dip clearance, say 5" that means the closest the back of the cab to trailer distance could be is 56". The pin on a 48' trailer would have to be at least 8" from the front of the trailer to hit the 65' mark. Semi trailers have the pin anywhere from 16-48" depending on use, most van trailers have 36" pins or deeper. The swing on a trailer with front overhang is different than a trailer with the pin at the front like most gooseneck ball hitches. The 48' trailer could work depending on where the king pin is or where the ball is. That 51" number is an absolute min plan on 54" for any trailer from the hitch to the back of the cab. The cab extensions are designed with a semi van close coupled, a 102" wide semi trailer with a 36" or deeper king pin has the fifth wheel positioned to allow the truck to jack knife. A race trailer with the hitch forward would not be able to jack knife with the extensions in place AND close coupled to the cab. For each trailer you look at, the placement of the hitch is as important as overall length to compute combination length. A 44' gooseneck trailer with the gooseneck ahead of the front of the trailer will still need that 54" to jack knife. Trailers with fifth wheel hitches set back from the nose of the trailer offer the best choices for max combination length. A 48' drop frame van with a 36" pin will easily stay under 65', a 48' race trailer maybe maybe not. Steve
  13. Most tandem trucks have 54" axle spacing, a truck with a 230" WB has 203" wheelbase to the forward axle. That is a good compromise between length and maneuverability if you don't plan on deck cargo. The frame can be left in place or cut to your desired length, generally the frame can be cut 4 feet. So, a truck with a 15' bumper to back of cab and a 60" hitch placement behind the cab will yield a trailer capacity of up to 45' beyond the kingpin. A lot of semi tractors that have 230-240" WB actually have a cab to rear axle distance of about 66" that is to the forward axle. Leaving the truck tandem will add aprox 4 feet in length to the combination using a race/horse style trailer. Single axles in the forward position are not an issue for most RV type including race cars, the hitch weight is not that high. Mounting the hitch a foot behind the axle is not uncommon and is no big deal like it is with a pick up. Race trailers that are designed to be towed by pick ups like RV 5th wheels have little overhang and, the pin close to the front. My Teton trailer can be hitched 45" ahead of the back of my truck. The kingpin is almost exactly at the front of the trailer, the body on my truck is 90-91" wide. My truck and Teton are just under 65', it is a 44' trailer. With more overhang forward I could tow a 47' trailer. A 48-54" sleeper instead of a 64" sleeper would allow me to tow a 48' trailer. Steve
  14. The width of your truck is maybe 75-80" the back of a tractor either the mudflap hanger or fenders are about 95-98". Plan on having enough swing clearance. The pick up can close the gap because the rear corners are narrower, the 45* point is greater on a tractor, that is the pinch point. Scrap's suggestion is fine, 2000 and older trucks are in a unique spot right now due to ELD mandate. 2000-2005 is pretty safe. I would look at C12 or C13 small block trucks some of them are shorter by 6-10" and are lighter. If you find a small block truck with a short nose and small sleeper they are under 15' from bumper to back of the cab. If you want a clean look search for flat tops and mid roofs. Star Dreamers truck is a mid roof. Steve
  15. Troy, If you are very resourceful you can do for 15-20, I have found things that the dealer wanted 100+ for for a few dollars on ebay. These trucks are not hard to work on, they do require some large tools for tire/wheel/ brake work. The things that add up are not what you would expect. The trucks you are looking at have lived 10 lives of a passenger car already, stuff like door latches, window regulators, ignition switches, they all wear out. The auto shift transmissions have a number of sensors that can cause grief, the electronic shifter X-Y actuator and voltage to the trans are all things that can stop you in your tracks. The fatal flaw kinda failures are rare, the shifter or X-Y are not common, low voltage is a common reason for MIL light and weird behavior. I don't know about registering in Virginia but, there are several folks on the list who are residents. Can't say they have registered their trucks in Virginia as RV's but should know the process. A word of caution, there are tons of International Prostars very cheap, they have significant known engine issues. Do some research on these before you consider them. Also, Cummins engines in the 2008-12 era have significant known issues, heads, cams and, the early emissions stuff. The small Volvo and Paccar engines seem to be the least troublesome in that range, that is relative. All the trucks and all the engines in the first few years of the DPF/DEF era are subject to significant engine/emission related issues. Steve
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