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Steve from SoCal

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About Steve from SoCal

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  • Location
    Woodland Hill, Ca. and Hutchinson Ks.
  • Interests
    Anything that burns fuel, creating gizmos, flyin, floatin, drivin

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  1. To add to the mix, My inverters are connected directly to the batteries so no protection from the truck, however, the inverters shut off at 10.5 volts. Steve
  2. The withdraw rate is factor, a small heater is not using the volume a generator does. Steve
  3. There is an aspect of propane that should be considered. IF you have a small air cooled generator cold weather opps could be an issue. Forklifts and equipment that run on propane have water heated vaporizers and even with that running in very low temps below the teens can be challenging. That is probably not an issue for general use, in an emergency situation that condition could exist. That said I have no first hand knowledge of these small engine systems, the propane engines I have all use the forklift bottles that draw liquid not vapor. I agree that for intermittent use propane is the fuel of choice. Steve
  4. The sense wire goes to the far terminal, Here is a link to answer some questions http://www.delcoremy.com/Documents/Alternator-Instruction-Sheets/INSTALLATION-INSTRUCTIONS-33SI,-34SI,-35SI-36SI Steve
  5. Is the sense wire connected and if so is the connection good? The voltage you are reading is from where to where? Steve
  6. If your truck has an enclosed bed routing the exhaust under it is not a good idea. Depending on how the generator is mounted the reflected noise could be an issue next to another vehicle or object. Propane is a great fuel for small engines that don't run daily, if you use gasoline use ethanol free fuel. As far as exhaust, look on youtube, there are several folks that use small cherry bomb type mufflers with good results on generators. Steve
  7. Isn't that the place that kicked Phil out? I agree with I guess now "Former Farmer" Rick, the small stations are much cheaper and, generally better. I was on my way back from Columbus and stopped at a Casey's that was literately down the street from a Flying Hook and diesel was a quarter a gallon cheaper. Steve
  8. Were the shims used with the steel wheels, could have been to keep the lug nuts from hitting a shoulder /run out of thread? The other thing, are the isolation discs? Some trucks with aluminum wheels have a separator gasket to minimize corrosion of the aluminum wheel on steel. Steve
  9. Sing along with Hank,
  10. If your car is lowered you may need a camber kit. Steve
  11. I know the group uses wheel straps to secure vehicles, here is a thought to ponder. Cars that are not made here in North America come on boats, boats go through all kinds of weather and sea states. The cars are tied down front and back on the chassis at hard points designed to keep the car secure, this loads the suspension to limit car motion. A member above mentioned a car trailer that failed under these conditions? That is not only sad, it is shocking that a company would make a trailer like that. My guess is the trailer frame and car frame had different frequencies of vibration. The decks most folks have to load a car is neither long enough or so flimsy to cause that kind of failure. Personally I like ratchet binders to secure a car, straps work but allow bounce, snubbing the cars motion. My Kentucky trailer has a design feature that includes a floor 2" above a car secured below it, wheel straps ain't going to cut it there. Absent of fixed obstacles, keeping the car from moving around does two things. It greatly minimizes the flailing around of the car and, it prevents the car from inducing motion back into the deck and, ultimately the truck. My 2 cents, keep the chocks, toss the wheel straps. Steve
  12. Perhaps the simplest thing would be a NC relay from the intellipower when the generator is on it drops out the intellipower to battery. That would be an AC relay powered by the generator when it is running. Steve
  13. If you are talking about IBC totes, they are rated for liquids with high specific gravity so water is not an issue. The big considerations are, do you have the space, front axle weight and, swing clearance? Your truck seems to be tandem axle so space and swing are prob not an issue, how much does your front axle weigh unloaded? Volvo's are really heavy on the front axle, a T660 with an ISX and 18 not so sure ? Steve
  14. I concur with Rick, My tag is on the back, where a tractor would have the plate on the front. As for hitch, mine is a little overkill for your use but the idea is the same. I bolted vertical plates to the back of the frame with diagonal braces. I wanted it removable, the hitch plate bolts to the side frame.
  15. Knowledge and experience "seat time" is valuable in any endeavor. Driving a large combination vehicle is different enough from towing a small trailer with a pick up that competent instruction makes sense. Particularly for someone who has no background with large truck systems. Doing a walk around inspection, knowing how to do an air brake check and, understanding the vehicle dynamics of a heavy truck are not innate. Your desire to learn the nuances of driving a big truck is commendable. One thing I would suggest, make a list of the things that confound you. It is also easier to learn the right way from the start, rather than change bad old habits. Steve
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