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Steve from SoCal

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About Steve from SoCal

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    Major Contributor
  • Birthday 05/17/1960

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  • Location
    Woodland Hill, Ca. and Hutchinson Ks.
  • Interests
    Anything that burns fuel, creating gizmos, flyin, floatin, drivin

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  1. Personally I would go Salt Lake to US 6then US191 then US491 to either US550 or continue on 491 to I40 depending on weather. Steve
  2. The rear hubs on "most" big trucks, have oil bath bearings similar to the front. The rear hubs don't have a window to check the oil level, they do however require gear oil directly at the hub. On the rear, excess oil would find its way down the axle tube generally. Most rear hubs hold about a pint of oil. Steve
  3. Vern, That is very helpful, when I get things back together I will start the treatment. The pictures are an eye opener, I don't use water based cleaners much. Thanks, Steve
  4. Paul, In looking at your link, my valve is rod actuated but, that is neither here nor there. The FRAME is preventing removal as you suggest. The frame has a 2X2" window where the rod go through, the valve body is trapped by the frame.
  5. I think I am going to replace the valve based on age and difficulty factor. I pulled my macerator apart to inspect it and I will put a new impeller in, it is loose on the shaft. The RV store down on Hwy 50 should have both of these in stock tomorrow.
  6. Well, The drain valve is OK, there was, is something upstream of the valve. I took a piece of 1/4" air line and snaked it up the elbows to the tank. Blasted a little air and I got some flow, it is still only draining maybe a gallon a minute. I am going to take the valve out and try getting some larger tubing up the drain like an auger. The blockage had to be tough enough to hold back 30+ gallons of water?
  7. Sitting here warming my hands after doing all the precursor work, I have 40 gallons of pails if needed. When I took off the macerator pump there is a coating of slime along the side of the drain pipe. I wonder if a bit of caustic after this is back together would take care of that? The piping and valves all seem to be black ABS, the pump impeller/seal are the questionable items? I had to remove the pump to have good drain access to the valve, the pump is free but, it is not submersible. I can try the pump but, not sure I will be able to pump the gray water? The fall back is to fill buckets and empty them in the shop bathroom. That was the reason for all the buckets, it is a 200 foot walk with an obstacle course around the camper to the drain. The pump goes to another drain that is 100 feet away but far worse to get to. Time to dive in, hope this goes well!!!๐Ÿ˜
  8. Great minds think alike๐Ÿ˜
  9. That is my plan, was not sure of the ability to modulate the flow. The two screws that are feel only are the wild cards.
  10. The pump works, I was thinking that it was a pump issue at first. I opened the bath gray tank and it pumped fine. The pump is pulling vacuum when it slows down. The sound of the pump wet/dry is distinct and it is not getting fluid. When a valve is opened you can hear the liquid flow into the the drain pipe normally, I hear no rush of liquid when I open the kitchen valve. I time the discharge cycles to evaluate the pumps efficiency, the bath discharge time just before this problem was within a few seconds of new. Typical cycle time for either tank is 120~150 seconds. I am pretty sure the valve is the culprit.
  11. The injector hats with butterfly's is a nice touch on a diesel๐Ÿ˜‰ Let's see 12 8-71 blowers with a conservative parasitic draw of 100HP each, that package of 2 buzzin dozen should make a lot more power with a different induction system. I get it that it is an "art car" personally it is rather clunky but hey, I haven't come up with some 12 million dollar beast ๐Ÿ™Š As an old car guy told me long ago, their IS an ass for every seat. Steve
  12. I have an 80 gallon stock tank somewhere, need to see if it is low enough to get under the plumbing. I do have suction pumps but, getting a hose all the way down to the tank is another story. The sink is 8' from the tank on the other side of the trailer there are at least 135 degrees of bends in that 12+ feet of run. One of the bigger challenges will be just getting to the screws that hold the valve together. The two on the inside of the frame are really easy to access, the two outboard screws are above the bottom flange of the frame rail and, almost against the web of the frame. This is going to be a wet ugly job no matter what.
  13. The pump I mentioned is a macerator pump on the bayonet fitting for the drain hose. The valve has a rod to a tee handle, I can see, it goes through a hole in the frame, not sure I can actually get to the valve? It is a balmy 43 in here, the other valves are fine. In looking at the specs, that tank is 40 gallons and, it is showing full, this should be fun. I have 4-5 gallon pails and an 11 gallon tub, scrounging for more capacity.
  14. Hi Rocky, The kitchen has it's own gray tank that is 10' from the sink. I opened the insulation around the valve, it screws into the flanges. I don't think it is a blockage? I have strainer baskets on the sink and only water for the most part goes down the drain. My hose from the flojet is clear and other than dark spots in the stream from coffee, not grounds just coffee. The clothes washer drain is direct to the outside, it was last on the drain pipe until I split it off. It drains to the sewer directly. The kitchen tank is the closest to the pump and in fact the pump is about under where the valve sits! Looking at the drain valve and where the discharge is, it makes at least a 180 if not a 270 turn from the tank to the pump. I think the blade in the valve has separated from the actuator, linkage still has resistance like it is moving the valve? I am going to try and open the valve in the AM, running out of light and need to source a big catch basin.
  15. I realize this is a long shot, My 1996 Teton will not drain the kitchen gray tank, the valve linkage moves about as it always has with some resistance but, my pump will pull vacuum and stall. In looking at the valve there seems to be no way to mechanical open the valve other than the linkage, short of cutting it out is there a way to drain the tank? Steve
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