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Steve from SoCal

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About Steve from SoCal

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    Major Contributor
  • Birthday 05/17/1960

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  • Location
    Woodland Hill, Ca. and Hutchinson Ks.
  • Interests
    Anything that burns fuel, creating gizmos, flyin, floatin, drivin

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  1. Charlie, I am askin 750, is there a Fastenal near you? They have a shipping service from store to store that is a good deal. The item has to be crated, I could wrap the pallet with some OSB for materials? I weighed the hitch, it is right at 400 pounds with the three stringers with a crate and pallet maybe 450. Steve
  2. Older TSLB air hitch rated for 32K trailers. I was going to use this on my Peterbilt but, went back to the commercial hitch to tow my Kentucky trailer. There is some wear in the head tilt bushings, the trailing arms, bags and Blinky head are all in good shape There are straps to mount it on a HDT included, I will ship this it is on a pallet now in Hutchinson, Kansas. 750.00, picked up in Hutch, shipping quotes try R&L carriers starting zip code 67501 industrial with forklift. Steve
  3. In reading the ADOT link it states that using "illegal/untaxed" fuel damages engines. High sulfur content, hello it's 2020 even MDO is low sulfur, a little hyperbolic? Steve
  4. Merry Christmas to all, from a remarkably sunny warm Hutchinson, Ks. 64 right now Steve
  5. Many folks have seen the effort Henry went to regarding durability. I don't think any of the other hitches have that level of refinement, not to mention the support. While the ET Hitch is no longer Henry's baby the solid engineering and, overall strength of the product would make it my first and only choice. Steve
  6. One thing a lot of RVer's don't understand about truck dealer shops, Like new car dealers, they don't really want or need old vehicles to work on. Sometimes parts are not readily available, the mechanics may not know the older systems very well and, they have plenty of work with newer models. Mechanics are up to their ears with work, spending hours chasing air leaks is not productive. The front end work, a good alignment shop is your best bet. The idea that a shop would even mention a 40K job on an old truck seems like an easy way to say "get lost" Steve
  7. That sounds like a mechanic failure, Don't know if there is a state agency that oversees mechanics, if there is I would call them and let them know what the shop told you. Get their repair estimate in writing. The idea that this diagnosis was from a goober starting your truck is amazing, no metal in the oil, no disassembly, no nothing but, a guy hearing something maybe? Did you have any weird noises or strange things going on with the truck before you took it there? Steve
  8. I have not been able to get to a source for simple green as of yet. The small hose does allow some water to drain at a reduced flow as mentioned above. I should be able to get some tomorrow when I get to do some shopping. I have been working on my truck doing some PM stuff and re configuring. i will be taking the truck and Kentucky trailer to my house in California before Christmas. It has been a mad dash to get stuff done while the weather is good. Supposed to be a few inches of snow starting tomorrow PM Steve
  9. Personally I would go Salt Lake to US 6then US191 then US491 to either US550 or continue on 491 to I40 depending on weather. Steve
  10. The rear hubs on "most" big trucks, have oil bath bearings similar to the front. The rear hubs don't have a window to check the oil level, they do however require gear oil directly at the hub. On the rear, excess oil would find its way down the axle tube generally. Most rear hubs hold about a pint of oil. Steve
  11. Vern, That is very helpful, when I get things back together I will start the treatment. The pictures are an eye opener, I don't use water based cleaners much. Thanks, Steve
  12. Paul, In looking at your link, my valve is rod actuated but, that is neither here nor there. The FRAME is preventing removal as you suggest. The frame has a 2X2" window where the rod go through, the valve body is trapped by the frame.
  13. I think I am going to replace the valve based on age and difficulty factor. I pulled my macerator apart to inspect it and I will put a new impeller in, it is loose on the shaft. The RV store down on Hwy 50 should have both of these in stock tomorrow.
  14. Well, The drain valve is OK, there was, is something upstream of the valve. I took a piece of 1/4" air line and snaked it up the elbows to the tank. Blasted a little air and I got some flow, it is still only draining maybe a gallon a minute. I am going to take the valve out and try getting some larger tubing up the drain like an auger. The blockage had to be tough enough to hold back 30+ gallons of water?
  15. Sitting here warming my hands after doing all the precursor work, I have 40 gallons of pails if needed. When I took off the macerator pump there is a coating of slime along the side of the drain pipe. I wonder if a bit of caustic after this is back together would take care of that? The piping and valves all seem to be black ABS, the pump impeller/seal are the questionable items? I had to remove the pump to have good drain access to the valve, the pump is free but, it is not submersible. I can try the pump but, not sure I will be able to pump the gray water? The fall back is to fill buckets and empty them in the shop bathroom. That was the reason for all the buckets, it is a 200 foot walk with an obstacle course around the camper to the drain. The pump goes to another drain that is 100 feet away but far worse to get to. Time to dive in, hope this goes well!!!😝
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