Auxiliary Battery Solenoid Tech Needed.

[homelesshartshorns]

2000 Suncruser F53 Ford V10. Engine not charging House Batteries! Looking for a shop that can look at my issue in a timely manner and fix my problem. 

[Kirk W]

There is a solenoid that closes contacts to supply power to the coach and it's batteries when the alternator voltage comes up, when it is working properly. Probably the most common brand is Intelitec but there are others. They are not terribly difficult to replace but you should understand meter use in order to be sure exactly what the problem is before starting to replace parts. 

[homelesshartshorns]

36 minutes ago, Kirk W said:

There is a solenoid that closes contacts to supply power to the coach and it's batteries when the alternator voltage comes up, when it is working properly. Probably the most common brand is Intelitec but there are others. They are not terribly difficult to replace but you should understand meter use in order to be sure exactly what the problem is before starting to replace parts. 

Is the item on the left the item I need to replace?

[Kirk W]

Possibly but to be sure you need to use a meter. The one you are looking for would have power from the batteries on one side and 0V on the other until the engine starts and then it would have the voltage being put out from the alternator. 

[Wrknrvr]

  I am thinking the silver would be that battery charge solenoid that connects the charge from the alternator.

   The black looks to be a battery disconnect solenoid. That would be controlled by a switch in the rv.

 

     But to start, you need a voltmeter on the terminals to see what is happening. And what is not. The silver relay should be available at automotive stores.

   The black one would be less available at a automotive store.    But both would be available on line.   You need the part number that is on the relays 

 

    Both of those relays need power and ground on the small terminals. One will be positive 12vdc. The other little post will be the ground.

 

    So the first thing you need to do is test for 12vdc on the little post. One of them needs 12vdc.

 

  This info should get you started into what is happening.

[homelesshartshorns]

Thanks

 

[Deezl Smoke]

 Which direction of the flow of power in the picture? Main cut first, then ignition, or ignition first, then main cut off?

 This scenario can also be tested using a light before finding a meter. I bought a couple of these from amazon and they would work great for this testing scenario.

 Link to amazon test light with voltage meter.

 If you prefer not to follow links, I understand. Google search "12 volt test light" and find the amazon ad that reads "Premium Digital LED Automotive Circuit Tester, DC 2.6V-32V Test Light with Portable PU Extended Spring Wire, Vehicle Circuits Low Voltage Light Tester with Sharp Stainless Probe"

 This tester will give you the indication of whether power is at a terminal with the light, then tell you the voltage that comes with it.

[Dutch_12078]

The silver solenoid on the right is the one that connects the two battery systems together for charging. If it needs replacing, it looks like a common Ford starting relay, but it is NOT the same. The starting solenoid is rated for intermittent duty, while the battery isolation solenoid is rated for continuous duty. Make sure you get the right one.

https://www.amazon.com/Stylemafia-Continuous-Solenoid-Nickel-Plating-Marine/dp/B09P71SLJ3/

[Wrknrvr]

     Also I would recommend making sure the battery terminal ends are covered with tape when removed to control sparkies.

   And marked as to where go back on .

[homelesshartshorns]

31 minutes ago, Dutch_12078 said:

The silver solenoid on the right is the one that connects the two battery systems together for charging. If it needs replacing, it looks like a common Ford starting relay, but it is NOT the same. The starting solenoid is rated for intermittent duty, while the battery isolation solenoid is rated for continuous duty. Make sure you get the right one.

https://www.amazon.com/Stylemafia-Continuous-Solenoid-Nickel-Plating-Marine/dp/B09P71SLJ3/

So, if I am too dumb to read a voltmeter and think my batteries are ok, I can disconnect all the batteries and replace this part?  

[Wrknrvr]

Do you have a volt meter. That really is needed to determine what is wrong.

  It is simple to use.

   Let’s start with the volt testing.   That could save replacing things that do not need replaced. And save a bunch of stress. On you and me.

 

 

 

[Wrknrvr]

V   Just to give you a idea of not being able to test for a problem. 

 

  I have been working on my diesel truck. It’s a HDT. So I had to treat for contaminated fuel from moisture.

   Treatment was put in both fuel tanks. Fuel was circulating for 6 hours through a filter system. Each tank was done separately. Started truck it ran normal for two test times in the morning.

   On the third morning it started to miss sporadically. Fine air bubbles in the fuel return line.

 

   Now what is going on. Fuel treatment dislodged something somewhere in the fuel suction side. From the tanks to the engine. 

     Lots of thinking, talking and taking things apart.     

 

   I finally got 1/2  of the fuel system to work. I separated the fuel system into the front and the rear halves. That was like 9 fittings to take apart and test on the rear half.

   Then the front half needs fixed. Take fittings apart. 7 fittings, seriously check an do everything I can to make sure they are good. Air entering the fuel line somewhere.

   Replace all front half fuel lines and fittings. Start truck, and still a leak. But now the first fuel filter will stay full of fuel. . Still a problem.

that housing is on the fuel pump is apparently bad. Order new housing and install. Still a problem.

   Call 3 friends that have diesel repair shops. Now they are stumped.

 

   Call Cummins and finally get a intelligent person on the other end of my phone call. He said on my engine, by the serial number there is a short steel line. With a check valve it hooks toooooo.

   Check it. Check valve is stuck shut.

 

   Ordered it overnight. Just now going to pick it up to where it was delivered.

 

   Since there was no external leaks , I could not determine where the problems were.

 

   With a meter you can look for where a problem is.

 

Edited May 8, 2023 by Wrknrvr

[Kirk W]

3 hours ago, homelesshartshorns said:

So, if I am too dumb to read a voltmeter 

Anyone can learn to use a basic volt/ohm meter as most all come with instructions. But you do need to get it and spend some time with the instructions and making measurements based on those instructions. When you need to test is not the best time to start to learn. You didn't wake up one morning knowing how to drive, yet today you are traveling around the country in a motorhome! Most people could learn to use a meter, if they would. You can also learn the basics of your 12V system if you will take some time and start with The 12V Side of Life, by Mark Nemeth. It will take some time and effort, but it will also save you money and enable you to resolve problems as you travel.

3 hours ago, homelesshartshorns said:

I can disconnect all the batteries and replace this part?  

You can and it might fix the problem, but it may not also. If you replace enough parts you will probably get it to work but it may take quite a few parts to do so. The problem could be that solenoid, but it could also be something as simple as a bad connection that replacing the iterm will not solve. With a volt/ohm meter and some very basic knowledge you could give us additional information and together know for sure what is wrong. Troubleshooting by replacing parts might cost even more than hiring a qualified technician. 

Edited May 8, 2023 by Kirk W

[Dutch_12078]

4 hours ago, homelesshartshorns said:

So, if I am too dumb to read a voltmeter and think my batteries are ok, I can disconnect all the batteries and replace this part?  

Yes, just take careful note of the connections. The picture will help with that.

[Wrknrvr]

One trick to do, would be to go to a hardware store or Lowe’s /Hpme Depot and get stick on numbers. 

You can find them next to the meter department.

 

 Put a number on both sides of what you are taking apart . Them put the numbers back together.

[homelesshartshorns]

On 5/8/2023 at 9:38 AM, Wrknrvr said:

Do you have a volt meter. That really is needed to determine what is wrong.

  It is simple to use.

   Let’s start with the volt testing.   That could save replacing things that do not need replaced. And save a bunch of stress. On you and me.

 

I have a voltmeter in the hallway of the rig. When on shore power it shows my house batteries at 13. something and the Chassy battery at 12 something. When I start the engine the house battery sets at 12 something and the Chassy battery sets at 14 something. So, the silver solenoid needs to be replaced?

 

 

[Wrknrvr]

Ok

 

   You need a hand held volt meter. To test what controlling  voltages and grounds are doing.

   That would determine what is working and what is not doing.

     There needs to be 12vdc power to the sliver relay to make it work. Since it has two small post it needs a good ground also.

 

   You could replace the silver relay. And see if it while work.

 

     But,     Having a volt meter and understanding how to use it, could save time and money for you in the future.

[homelesshartshorns]

I don't want you guys laying awake at night worrying about my inability to read a voltmeter. And wanted to let you know I took Mr. Dutch' suggestion and got the Starter Solenoid and put it on. And it fixed my issue. Thanks for all the suggestions.

[Dutch_12078]

2 hours ago, homelesshartshorns said:

I don't want you guys laying awake at night worrying about my inability to read a voltmeter. And wanted to let you know I took Mr. Dutch' suggestion and got the Starter Solenoid and put it on. And it fixed my issue. Thanks for all the suggestions.

I'm glad to see you got it fixed!