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Semi truck for weekend rv Hauler weekday work horse kit?


Fernando

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Hi Fernando,

You want a cushioned hitch for the camper.     Your fifth wheel is most likely too far forward anyway.    I have a Trailer Saver TLSB air ride hitch that I mounted on my truck Pete 387 with flex air, the pin height was a bit high for my Teton trailer but, there was room on the trailer hitch to move up the plate.    If you wanted to permanently install an RV hitch behind the main it gets complicated because of the rear axle. 

My hitch was mounted on three 5/8 straps and bolted to some angle I added to the frame.     A engine hoist or forklift can load/unload in 10 minutes. on an open frame.

You also need a brake controller and electrical connector for the camper.      

2005 Peterbilt 387-112 Baby Cat 9 speed U-shift

1996/2016 remod Teton Royal Atlanta

1996 Kentucky 48 single drop stacker garage project

 catdiesellogo.jpg.e96e571c41096ef39b447f78b9c2027c.jpg Pulls like a train, sounds like a plane....faster than a Cheetah sniffin cocaine.   

 

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So many questions......  Do you have an air ride pin box on the camper?  Do you have a sliding commercial hitch?  If "yes" to both, you might be able to slide the hitch back far enough to make it all work.  On our Volvo, I unbolted the commercial hitch and remounted it far enough rearward to use for a couple years.  Not a good solution with a camper, but ours was a heavy duty cargo hauler.

And then there's the fenders.  Do you need them?  Only if you want your camper to survive.  Road debris is some pretty aggressive stuff.  Electric?  A Jackalopee is your friend.  Brakes?  If you have hydraulic disks on the trailer, you can install a BluDot system.  Far superior to electric, but come sale time for the camper might be an issue.

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio@yahoo.com

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1 hour ago, rickeieio said:

So many questions......  Do you have an air ride pin box on the camper?  Do you have a sliding commercial hitch?  If "yes" to both, you might be able to slide the hitch back far enough to make it all work.  On our Volvo, I unbolted the commercial hitch and remounted it far enough rearward to use for a couple years.  Not a good solution with a camper, but ours was a heavy duty cargo hauler.

And then there's the fenders.  Do you need them?  Only if you want your camper to survive.  Road debris is some pretty aggressive stuff.  Electric?  A Jackalopee is your friend.  Brakes?  If you have hydraulic disks on the trailer, you can install a BluDot system.  Far superior to electric, but come sale time for the camper might be an issue.

Yes 2 both. That's what I was thinking sliding it all the way and unbolting whole bracket as far back as needed wondering if anybody else had done that here! Thank you for your word of advice as well!

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You know how the back of your truck bounces while bob-tailing?   It won't change much with just the hitch weight of your 5er.  The air ride pin you have is a better than nothing, but not much.  So, ask yourself, how far will you tow?  What road conditions?  Broken trailer frames are more common than you might think.

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio@yahoo.com

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On 1/7/2022 at 11:18 AM, rickeieio said:

You know how the back of your truck bounces while bob-tailing?   It won't change much with just the hitch weight of your 5er.  The air ride pin you have is a better than nothing, but not much.  So, ask yourself, how far will you tow?  What road conditions?  Broken trailer frames are more common than you might think.

 

Av8r3400
Thunderstruck - 2012 Volvo VNL 730 D13 iShift
Slick - 2021 Grand Design Momentum 397TH

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I'd rather die trying to live - Than live trying not to die.   -Leonard Perry

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