Wet Hubs W22 Workhorse Chassis 2003

[FULLTIMEWANABE]

Well in the spirit of moving forwards on maintenance issues on our gal, we finally (waited for a break in the weeks of fire and heat wave we endured lately!!) yesterday got around to our first change out of the Front wet hub oil.   We've always checked the levels and it's never changed or needed topping up by us personally (250,000kms).   When we did drain it yesterday it was very dark brownish/black, so we are guessing we did the right thing!     There was only a couple visual metal shavings on one and none evident on the other so that is good for knowing the bearings are OK I'm guessing?

Was surprised how little oil drained out (and we left it draining for a good couple hours), compared to how much it felt we put back in of fresh golden GL5 85W 90 = again waited for it to settle and kept topping up over a good hour half/two hours again.   Checked this morning and doesn't appear to have gone any lower.   Surprised us that more went in than came out?   Curious why not being mechanically inclined if you can explain, considering the level in glass remained same as we refilled to?

Now to the "forgotten oil change" - went under to the banjo/pumpkin to check the diff but we don't have a "bit" that will fit and not sure what name is so I can look see if can get set on line.   The fill hole needs a square end about a half inch on tape measuring wise and I'd like to try and source some varying sizes just in case smaller or larger, at a reasonable price for how often we'd use them.  Maybe Amazon?   Can someone tell me what the name is of this bit (I'm sure my ignorance will generate some giggles here!).

I've been told generally to leave diff oil well alone but after 18 years and looking at condition of the front oil we drained, we're thinking we should drain it (sealed banjo with a plug at the very bottom and a fill on the front of banjo near top.   I know on our own might not be able to drain every bit from side to side, but am thinking it can't hurt to get most old out and fresh in????   Value any comments from you guys on this?   My initial thought was to book it into somewhere that can elevate to drain better side to side but more I've watched YouTube and read I'm thinking we should try to do it ourselves and know it's been done as best as we can.    Boy is it a tight fit under there!

We aren't sure how much of the GL5 85W 90 we need for a refill on the diff if anyone can share?   I read for a F53 it is about 4.5 quarts but ours is a Workhorse W22 so not sure if anyone can share so I order the right amount (not available locally believe it or not we've found).

So doesn't appear from first look see yesterday that I have to remove any bolts like some folks do to remove cover and also replace with a gasket.   Just looks like one complete banjo piece with the two drain/fill plugs.

Thanks as always for your input/feedback folks.   I have to say to any of you ladies and even some gentlefolk out there that might have considered it but been abstaining from trying to do some of the maintenance, fluid changes, and repairs on your rigs, that whilst it's not always a walk in the park, with help from forums like this, there's just something so self satisfying knowing it has been done and often better than if you'd taken it into a shop.   Just saying for what it's worth, and as a side benefit, you do save a ton of moolah in the process for the most part to spend on "enjoying the journeys".

Safe travels everyone, we're willing it to rain here so bad here right now before we start feeding hay/silage two months prematurely! 

FTW.

 

[Darryl&Rita]

1 hour ago, FULLTIMEWANABE said:

The fill hole needs a square end about a half inch on tape measuring wise and I'd like to try and source

Use a 1/2 drive ratchet or breaker bar. Nothing fancy needed.

Fresh oil is always better than old, contaminated oil. As long as you don't have a limited slip rear differential, straight gear oil is fine. There should be a metal tag under a bolt, that will have all the information about your differential, even if it needs decoding.

[Ray,IN]

The differential and axle  should be level when draining as both axle ends are lubricated by the differential oil. Yes it should be replaced, old oil becomes contaminated with condensation, which in turn causes an acidic condition, which in turn can pit bearings.

I would expect 1 gallon(buy correct weight/grade) to be enough to refill the rear-end, but have more JIC it's needed. You can purchase a manual pump at most any auto parts store to move diff. oil from a gallon jug to diff.; makes it much more convenient.

FWIW, I  let mine sit draining overnight. Often the  drain plug has a magnet to capture any metal shavings and grit, clean the magnet before replacing the plug.

 

[FULLTIMEWANABE]

Thanks Ray and Darryl.   Much appreciated.   So I'm just looking for a 1/2 inch ratchet or breaker bar when trying to source.   Thanks, as apparently the star screwdriver I keep being told is a Phillips LOL,  so thought I'd ask on what the technical name is for these square end types

So when I do get that drain plug removed on the rear diff, that also has a magnet to catch those shavings just like the fill on the front hubs = thanks good to know and of course I'll clean it and see very little metal bits hopefully!   For sure happy to leave it drain overnight as well Ray.

Once again as always so very very much appreciate your guidance, tolerance and advices here.

PS:   Just in case you want another chuckle, and no I was never blonde.   When I measure stuff it's 3 and 6 digits (I struggle whether to use 16ths or 8ths)  I know the right terminology nowadays, I just have this fixation in my head it's digits - can see quarters and halves of the inch and verbate them, but everything else is 'X' inches and 'X' digits.   Drives my hubby cuckoo as I measure a lot of wood, but it works for me just like the star screwdriver.   Now where did I put my monkey wrench?

[Wrknrvr]

   I am curious if you pulled the front hubs off and really looked at the bearings and races.

   If I was changing the oil I would do that. To me any chips in the oil is questionable. Doing this while you have time is much more fun than along the road somewhere.

  Removing the hub assembly is really not that hard. If the axle is jacked up, well supported and remove the tire ,wheel and hub in one piece. Use a pry bar to help wiggle the wheel off the spindle.

 

  Sorta just my thoughts.  Vern

[Jaydrvr]

At that age, I wouldn't trust much of anything on the steer axle. I'd be pulling the hubs and replacing the bearings and seals, just as a precaution. Cheap insurance for peace of mind. Jay

[FULLTIMEWANABE]

Thanks Vern and Jay.   Well as much as I've kind of enjoyed the challenge doing a lot of stuff ourselves, at that juncture of pulling off hubs and replacing bearings it's going into a shop.   I know it's probably silly but I absolutely categorically would not feel safe in jacking her up myself and I don't have jacks anyway for that purpose (I fear heights as well now I'm older and suffered vertigo badly a couple years back).   Appreciate the comments that have been well and truly noted so I guess I'll be trying to source a chassis shop soon.

Thanks, appreciate it as always. 

[Ray,IN]

Any heavy duty truck shop is capable of servicing the front axle hubs N bearings, as well as any part of the chassis and drivetrain.