Winterizing the TT

[BeckyG]

I, the newby, am back needing some more advice. I've read my manuals a few times, called the dealer service dept (that did not call back), and I've searched this blog but cant pin down a topic. So here goes. I'm winterizing my Jayco Jayflight 2021. Its getting cold here in N. KY.

1)Should I take my battery indoors? I am thinking about the tiny things that may drain it (besides the cold)... the stereo clock, the CO and low battery detector, maybe other things I don't know about.

2)Should I concern myself about getting to the on/off switch on my furnace? My furnace is under a seat at the table. Cant get to it unless I unscrew the particle board seat or unscrew the vent. The user instructions of the furnace say I am supposed to turn it off when not in use. That would be most of the time for me. I only plan on camping in the warmer weather. But it is very unaccessible and doesn't seem to be a thing to do in this TT. Did Jayco just not think of that?

3)Any other winterizing tips would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks everyone

Becky

[Darryl&Rita]

1. At the least, disconnect the battery after charging it fully. Whether you bring it in, or not, is dependent on the temps expected. We see -40 and leave ours outside, with a 15 watt solar panel attached.

2. Not needed, if above followed.

3. Make sure all water lines and the hot water tank are drained. Some people use antifreeze for the lines, we use air. Use RV antifreeze in the drains, to winterize the traps. Pull the battery out of the smoke detector. Countless RV's in storage with a "Chirp" to tell an absent owner of a low battery. By spring, the battery's dead and forgotten. Good time to give the RV a good cleaning and inspection, with repairs as needed.

[Ray,IN]

Darryl is right! lead acid batteries self-discharge at a rate of 5% per month. Charge the battery, disconnect Negative battery cable and your battery should be fine for 6 months.

Edited November 19, 2020 by Ray,IN

[oldjohnt]

Becky, as far as freezing temperature lead acid battery storage, make sure they are fully charged prior to storage. If possible a battery maintainer/trickle charger (120 Volt or Solar powered) is a good thing, its harmful for them to be sitting discharged in freezing temps, avoid that condition !!!!!

 Its not absolutely necessary for them to be brought inside (fine if you so choose) but what's most important (in addition to being put away charged) is they be completely disconnected (such as removing a battery cable) so there's no chance of phantom loads discharging them.

 Some furnace thermostats have a positive hard total disconnect if turned all the way down, but if the battery is disconnected the furnace is inoperative anyway 

 My 49 year winterization method was to completely drain all the water and use RV anti freeze until all the faucets ran pink and pour some down all the drains to fill the traps.

 John T

[Kirk W]

I will agree with most of what has been said, but must disagree with part of it. The RV thermostat has an off position at the lowest setting and that is probably what the manual refers to when it says to turn the furnace off, it probably means with the thermostats as the switch on the furnace itself is a service switch to protect a tech when he works on it. 

The part I must disagree with it that of using antifreeze. I have a son who has an RV located in Radcliff, KY and discussed it with him. His experience has been that while you can usually get all water out by using compressed air, in that area you do take some risk if there happens to be a little bit of water in the wrong place. A gallon or two of RV antifreeze is very inexpensive insurance against freeze damage. 

Your RV most likely came with a water heater bypass so use that to prevent needing antifreeze in it and leave the water heater empty, via the drain plug. When I drain my water heater I also take the time to use a flush wand to make sure I get all of the residue out of it. I then put the plug back in just a thread or two in order to prevent any bugs from wintering it in. You should also have an antifreeze suction at the inlet to your water pump so that you don't need to put it through the fresh water tank. Just drain that tank and don't worry about the small amount left in the bottom. If you do not have the antifreeze kit, I would consider adding one.

 

 

   Antifreeze suction kit.

 

[BeckyG]

Thanks All! It does have the bypass system for antifreeze. My experienced neighbor did help me with that. He blew out the water first, and then we sucked up the antifreeze to all the places and traps mentioned here.

About that darn furnace switch.... I guess it is referring to once it is installed to turn it on/off (see attached pics in separate posts). It just bothers me I cant really get to the switch (like for in the Summer, I want it OFF). Maybe I could just pull the fuse? 

To "completely charge the battery".....Plug camper in to 110V at the house for a couple hours?

 

Thanks again

Becky

[BeckyG]

[Kirk W]

31 minutes ago, BeckyG said:

It just bothers me I cant really get to the switch (like for in the Summer, I want it OFF). Maybe I could just pull the fuse? 

There is no need to do any of that. Just push the thermostat setting all of the way to the left and it will turn off the furnace. 

[oldjohnt]

23 hours ago, Kirk W said:

His experience has been that while you can usually get all water out by using compressed air, in that area you do take some risk if there happens to be a little bit of water in the wrong place. A gallon or two of RV antifreeze is very inexpensive insurance against freeze damage. 

AMEN Kirk, FWIW I agree, that's why I use RV Anti Freeze and run it until I get pink out alllllllllllllll the faucets and poor some down the drains and I NEVER in 49 years had one freeze up using that method. I'm NOT saying blowing out with air cant work (some have done it for years no problem) I'm ONLY saying how I do it. To each their own methods. NOTE even if air is used its still "possible" a bit or water will condense and/or drain into the lowest possible (often hardest to get at to repair grrrrrrrrrr) point where it could freeze grrrrrrrrrrr lol  

21 hours ago, Kirk W said:

Just push the thermostat setting all of the way to the left and it will turn off the furnace

That's how most RV T stats worked in the 49 years I owned them, but I cant speak for all ??

Nice n warm here in Livingston Texas SKP, excellent for dry camping

John T 

Edited November 20, 2020 by oldjohnt

[slackercruster]

I charge my battery periodically in winter and non use periods but it is left in the camper. I drain the water tanks and unhook the shower hose and the water pump hoses. I run the water pump a little to drain out what can be drained. I put antifreeze down the drains and in the cassette toilet water tank. That is about it.

Been doing it like that for 15 years and no problems even in sub zero weather. I don't put anti freeze in the water tank or water pump. They got an attachment for blowing out water lines with compressed air. I never use city water, only onboard water tank.