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motorhome with generator 50amp wire in inverter


GlennWest

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In looking at motorhomes and planning. All I have seen has a generator of 6-10k. They will run the entire coach. I wouldn't want to boondocking so solar and inverter would be preferred. As I understand it has a transfer switch for generator and shore. I would want a large enough inverter to run entire coach less ac. Planning on 48v mini split. I feel magnum 44448pae hybird would take care of this. Now my question, is wiring this coach. Simple with no transfer switch, just run shore to inverter and inverter to main. I am thinking run shore power to inverter and run to transfer switch. Would this be correct?

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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For the type of set up you are proposing, put the inverter in line after the existing transfer switch between it and the power panel.  This way the generator can be used to charge batteries as needed.

2000 Kenworth T2000 w/ Cummins N14 and autoshift
2017 DRV Mobile Suite 40KSSB4 with factory mods, dealer mods and personal mods - now in the RV graveyard
2022 DRV Full House MX450 with customized floor plan
2018 Polaris RZR Turbo S (fits in the garage)
2016 Smart Car (fits in the garage or gets flat towed behind the DRV when the RZR is in the garage)
My First Solar Install Thread
My Second Solar Install Thread & Photos and Documents Related to the build
My MX450's solar, battery and inverter system - my biggest system yet!

chadheiser.com      West Coast HDT Rally Website

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7 minutes ago, Chad Heiser said:

For the type of set up you are proposing, put the inverter in line after the existing transfer switch between it and the power panel.  This way the generator can be used to charge batteries as needed.

That should be very simple. Shore power is at transfer switch. Mount inverter near it.Thank you. Thought I was missing something., So this way I be runnig thru inventer always even with generator running. 

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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9 hours ago, GlennWest said:

also where do yall put lithium batteries?  No heat is in storage, right?

It depends on the motor home.  Some have heated storage compartments and some do not.  Even if the compartments are not heated, they should at least be insulated.  If they are insulated, it would take some sustained cold temperatures to affect the lithium batteries.  Being that you will be using this motor home as a vacation rig, it will be unlikely you will be in areas that will be cold enough for long enough to worry about.

2000 Kenworth T2000 w/ Cummins N14 and autoshift
2017 DRV Mobile Suite 40KSSB4 with factory mods, dealer mods and personal mods - now in the RV graveyard
2022 DRV Full House MX450 with customized floor plan
2018 Polaris RZR Turbo S (fits in the garage)
2016 Smart Car (fits in the garage or gets flat towed behind the DRV when the RZR is in the garage)
My First Solar Install Thread
My Second Solar Install Thread & Photos and Documents Related to the build
My MX450's solar, battery and inverter system - my biggest system yet!

chadheiser.com      West Coast HDT Rally Website

event.png    

AZCACOIDIAKSMNMOMTNENVNMNDOKSDTNTXUTWYxlg.jpg

 

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20 hours ago, GlennWest said:

also where do yall put lithium batteries?  No heat is in storage, right?

Glenn, The thing is subject to the ambient temperature where you camp, when its extremely cold you may need insulation and perhaps low energy heating in the battery storage compartment HOWEVER when it's warm and you're consuming a lot of battery energy, then you may need to extract heat from the compartment. My plan would be to use an insulated or even some sort of interior storage coupled with, if needed, low energy THERMOSTAT CONTROLED (heat pads or wraps, or pet or water warmers etc) heating coupled with THERMOSTAT CONTROLLED 12 volt vent fans for cooling. You can get shutters that would open or close as needed when running the vent fans. If its an interior compartment there may be no need for heat but certainly adequate venting/cooling. A remote thermostat would be nice so you can monitor the compartments temperature to insure alls working correct THIS IS FUN RIGHT ????

NOTE It also depends on what's inside the compartment, batteries only ??? batteries and Inverter ???

 As the BMS systems improve along with built in cold weather improvements its not such a big deal to use Lithium in colder climates and low level temperature controlled heating or cooling isn't rocket science, easy and affordable.

 I wish I were younger starting all over knowing Id be using the same RV another 5 to 7 or more years, it would be fun to build up a new system   

 John T

Edited by oldjohnt
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  • 3 weeks later...

Yes, it cool setup but his "8000" isn't watts, it's VA. Also have to keep truck with camper. I usually cannot. Also it didn't look like he has enough room from camper nose to Smartcar.

Edited by GlennWest

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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16 minutes ago, GlennWest said:

Yes, it cool setup but his "8000" isn't watts, it's VA. Also have to keep truck with camper. I usually cannot. Also it didn't look like he has enough room from camper nose to Smartcar.

Roger has 800 amp at 24 volt available, and has plenty of room to car a Smart.  He's somewhere around 3000 watts of solar panel.  Ran everything on the DRV he had and runs everything on their new New Horizons.

Alie & Jim + 8 paws

2017 DRV Memphis 

BART- 1998 Volvo 610

Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins

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Picture is deceiving then. Didn't say he didn't have enough, just magnum is rated in VA not watts. That figures to 6400 watts.

Edited by GlennWest

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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