jean pierrre Posted August 3, 2020 Report Share Posted August 3, 2020 Hello, i have a norcold 811 and it automatically chooses lp while on auto. here,s what i have done: check if ac. i plugged a 1000w heater and it works checked fuses and they are fine. the only thing that happened while my fridge started choosing lp is that my rv battery died. I did get a new one but the fridge still chooses lp on auto mode. Help please! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Second Chance Posted August 3, 2020 Report Share Posted August 3, 2020 When you say "check if ac," do you mean in the whole RV or at the outlet for the refrigerator? If the fridge works on propane, then you know you have 12 volts for the controls. If there is AC at the outlet at the back of the fridge, that would narrow the problem down to the refrigerator control board or the heating elements in the cooling unit. Rob Quote 2012 F350 CC LB DRW 6.7 2020 Solitude 310GK-R, MORryde IS, disc brakes, solar, DP windows Full-time since 8/2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jean pierrre Posted August 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2020 at the outlet of the fridge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jean pierrre Posted August 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2020 6 minutes ago, Second Chance said: When you say "check if ac," do you mean in the whole RV or at the outlet for the refrigerator? If the fridge works on propane, then you know you have 12 volts for the controls. If there is AC at the outlet at the back of the fridge, that would narrow the problem down to the refrigerator control board or the heating elements in the cooling unit. Rob at the outlet of the fridge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Second Chance Posted August 3, 2020 Report Share Posted August 3, 2020 1 hour ago, jean pierrre said: at the outlet of the fridge Then I'm voting for the control board or the resistive heating element(s) on the fridge (some models have one electric element, others have two). If you have a multimeter and are comfortable doing this type of thing, you can use Google and find out how to check output to the heating element from the relay and/or check the resistance of the heating element. If you're not experienced in this type of thing, don't do it since it's 110 AC. Rob Quote 2012 F350 CC LB DRW 6.7 2020 Solitude 310GK-R, MORryde IS, disc brakes, solar, DP windows Full-time since 8/2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjohnt Posted August 3, 2020 Report Share Posted August 3, 2020 I'm in the same camp as Second Chance on this one. If there's a good solid 120 VAC available but the heating element isn't working, its either the element is bad/open or the control board isn't sending it voltage (unless there a blown fuse or bad connection????). A quick and easy ohm test of the element(s) and a voltage reading at the element(s) itself should help provide the answer. One of the boards other functions is to sense if 120 volts is available and if that function is faulty it could auto switch to LP Gas, that (if heater itself is fine) leads to the problem as being the board (not sensing 120 orrrrrrrr sensing it but failing to close a relay to send 120 to element). Get an Ohm Meter and an AC Voltmeter and go to work provided you know what you're doing ??? John T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted August 3, 2020 Report Share Posted August 3, 2020 3 hours ago, jean pierrre said: i have a norcold 811 and it automatically chooses lp while on auto. There are several possible causes of that problem and while it could be a control circuit board, I strongly suggest that you do some trouble shooting before you start to swap parts. It is important to note that if you buy a new circuit board, once the packaging has been opened you can not return it since the seller has no way to know what may have been done with it. I suggest that you start by down loading a copy of the Norcold 811 Service Manual and take a look through it. Page 7 of the manual has some basic trouble shooting and page 8 has the fault codes. Page 18 has some trouble shooting with a meter of the 120V side of the system. The site on this link has available all of the documentation for the NC 811. If you do choose to replace circuit boards, I strongly recommend that you use the replacements from Dinosaur Electronics. Quote Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjohnt Posted August 4, 2020 Report Share Posted August 4, 2020 11 hours ago, Kirk W said: I strongly recommend that you use the replacements from Dinosaur Electronics Having replaced many boards over 49 years of RVing (even before I ever heard of Dinosaur lol) so far I HAVE NEVER HAD A DINOSAUR REPLACEMENT BOARD GO BAD. Once years ago I called Dinosaur for tech support on a Saturday and they were basically closed HOWEVER the actual owner/president answered and helped me troubleshoot over the phone and solved the problem........... John T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrknrvr Posted August 4, 2020 Report Share Posted August 4, 2020 It is 5 am where I am at. 5:30 I looked at the clock again. Is there a 110 volt fuse on the board. I would replace that fuse. Then follow 110 volt with a volt meter meter. First thoughts of the day, Vern Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jean pierrre Posted August 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2020 Thank you all or the leads! Ill let you know after my investigations! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray,IN Posted August 9, 2020 Report Share Posted August 9, 2020 Outcome? Quote 2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA ." And so, my fellow Americans: ask not what your country can do for you--ask what you can do for your country. John F. Kennedy 20 Jan 1961 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rls7201 Posted August 10, 2020 Report Share Posted August 10, 2020 (edited) I have listed the Norcold reset procedure below. If all connections and voltages are proper, give the reset a try. It's common knowledge to most techs. 1. Turn OFF the refrigerator. 2. Disconnect the following from power board: a. 12 VDC positive and negative wires. b. AC power cord. c. Gas valve solenoid coil wires. d. Spark/sense electrode assembly wires. 3. Remove the power board cover. 4. Reconnect a, b, c, & d disconnected in step 2. 5. Turn ON the refrigerator. 6. Locate Pin 15 on 16 pin connector (P1). Pin 15 is the empty socket to the right of the white/violet wire on the top row. See figure to the left. 7. Using an insulated jumper wire, short Pin 15 to the power board ground lug for 10 - 15 seconds. A click sound will indicate when the controls have reset. 8. Turn OFF the refrigerator. 9. Turn ON refrigerator. Richard Edited August 10, 2020 by rls7201 Quote Richard Shields Gladstone, MO 95 Bounder 32H F53 460/528 stroker engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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