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Adding a Winch to the Truck


alan0043

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Alan,  I've seen pics of Darryl's set up.  It was on this forum, a long time ago.

rdickinson,  yes, 10' ramps are steep, and the car is very close on break over.  That's why DW drives it up.  I got them for about 1/2 price at the end of a motorcycle show. 

I got it hung up on our first loading, and had to climb down a stepladder, so she could climb up and continue.  To be fair, the truck wasn't level, suspension aired up, and the ramps were in a slight depression, all to simulate a worst case scenario.   On level ground, we need no blocks under the ends, nor the "angle iron" in the hinge.  It works fine with her in the saddle, not so much with a 300# doofus (me).  I suppose with a set of "race ramps" about 6" high and 3' long, plus the hinge spacer, I could do the driving.  But frankly, the fact that she pilots it up draws a fair bit of interest, and leads to fun conversations.

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net

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10 hours ago, alan0043 said:

Hi Randy,

I am glad you saw my post about adding a winch to the truck. I wanted to see your opinion. Right now in the truck I have a class T fuse for the inverter. Where I used a Blue Sea brand ( model 5502 ) fuse holder. I was thinking about using a T fuse with a Blue Sea fuse holder also for the winch. I see a T fuse is an ANL style fuse. There is a nice electrical shop in town that I have used to make cables from welding cable. They also have the Anderson style pugs there in different amp ratings. The distance from the batteries to the control solenoid is going to be  about 6 feet. I would like to place the control solenoid in a box at the back of the cab. But right now I am not sure how to attach the box to the cab. I really don't want to drill any holes in the back of the cab. For one reason I don't want any water getting a chance to get into the cab. Also I would be drilling blind. There is some equipment attached to that back inside wall that I don't want to remove.

Please keep the info coming,
Al

3M makes a heavy duty outdoor double stick tape that will attach your relay/control box to your cab without screws (flat surface).  In my area the home stores and Walmart carry it.  It is black in color and has a red film on one side.  If you clean the cab side real good with acetone and/or alcohol pads to remove any wax and the same to the box  it will stick like crazy.  Use several strips.  The gray colored outside tape is also good but has a lesser weight rating.  Do this on WARM metal.  Doesn't work too good on cold days.  Adhesive will take a few hours to reach maximum strength.  I use this stuff all the time.  If you wait until the ECR I will have a big roll with me.

https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Extreme-Mounting-1-inch-60-inches/dp/B009NP1JQC/ref=sr_1_26?crid=1MCBEEWOCPXGD&keywords=3m+outdoor+double+sided+tape+heavy+duty&qid=1579138300&sprefix=3m+heavy+duty+double+sided+outdoor%2Caps%2C298&sr=8-26

or

https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Outdoor-Mounting-60-inches-411P/dp/B0083K36KA/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1MCBEEWOCPXGD&keywords=3m+outdoor+double+sided+tape+heavy+duty&qid=1579138508&sprefix=3m+heavy+duty+double+sided+outdoor%2Caps%2C298&sr=8-6

300.JPG.c2a50e50210ede7534c4c440c7f9aa80.JPG

Randy, Nancy and Oscar

"The Great White" - 2004 Volvo VNL670, D12, 10-speed, converted to single axle pulling a Keystone Cambridge 5th wheel, 40', 4 slides and about 19,000# with empty tanks.

ARS - WB4BZX, Electrical Engineer, Master Electrician, D.Ed., Professor Emeritus - Happily Retired!

 

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14 hours ago, RandyA said:

3M makes a heavy duty outdoor double stick tape that will attach your relay/control box to your cab without screws (flat surface).  In my area the home stores and Walmart carry it.  It is black in color and has a red film on one side.  If you clean the cab side real good with acetone and/or alcohol pads to remove any wax and the same to the box  it will stick like crazy.  Use several strips.  The gray colored outside tape is also good but has a lesser weight rating.  Do this on WARM metal.  Doesn't work too good on cold days.  Adhesive will take a few hours to reach maximum strength.  I use this stuff all the time.  If you wait until the ECR I will have a big roll with me.

https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Extreme-Mounting-1-inch-60-inches/dp/B009NP1JQC/ref=sr_1_26?crid=1MCBEEWOCPXGD&keywords=3m+outdoor+double+sided+tape+heavy+duty&qid=1579138300&sprefix=3m+heavy+duty+double+sided+outdoor%2Caps%2C298&sr=8-26

or

https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Outdoor-Mounting-60-inches-411P/dp/B0083K36KA/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1MCBEEWOCPXGD&keywords=3m+outdoor+double+sided+tape+heavy+duty&qid=1579138508&sprefix=3m+heavy+duty+double+sided+outdoor%2Caps%2C298&sr=8-6

Hi Randy,

Thanks for the idea. I forgot about that heavy duty double stick tape. I have used it in the past. Did you see my post about the length of wire needed ? As it looks, the distance from the batteries to the box where the control solenoid be going to be is about 6 feet. What size wire to you think I need ? It might be nice to have the fuse inside the box with the solenoid. Or is it better to put the fuse close to the batteries ?

Al

2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger "
  Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood "
    2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog "
 

 

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Fuse close to the batteries.  Can be in either - or + cable but + is more common arrangement.  Knowing the intermittent use and the curve for amperage in the cable you should be able to use #2 AWG pure copper for your 12' of cable with no voltage drop concerns.  Again, considerably longer cable or longer duration of maximum current draw will necessitate larger gauge wire.  Look forward to seeing your set-up at the ECR, well, looking forward to seeing you too. 😄

300.JPG.c2a50e50210ede7534c4c440c7f9aa80.JPG

Randy, Nancy and Oscar

"The Great White" - 2004 Volvo VNL670, D12, 10-speed, converted to single axle pulling a Keystone Cambridge 5th wheel, 40', 4 slides and about 19,000# with empty tanks.

ARS - WB4BZX, Electrical Engineer, Master Electrician, D.Ed., Professor Emeritus - Happily Retired!

 

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36 minutes ago, RandyA said:

Fuse close to the batteries.  Can be in either - or + cable but + is more common arrangement.  Knowing the intermittent use and the curve for amperage in the cable you should be able to use #2 AWG pure copper for your 12' of cable with no voltage drop concerns.  Again, considerably longer cable or longer duration of maximum current draw will necessitate larger gauge wire.  Look forward to seeing your set-up at the ECR, well, looking forward to seeing you too. 😄

Hi Randy,

Thanks for the advice. It will be April before we know it. I hope to have the work done before the rally. It's always nice talking face to face. It won't be long.

Al

2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger "
  Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood "
    2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog "
 

 

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Don't fuse just the negative lead. Just don't. Mount the fuse or breaker as close as possible to the source (battery). Fusing only the negative will negate any protection for the positive wiring. 

I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 

2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication
2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet
2007 32.5' Fleetwood Quantum


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16 hours ago, Darryl&Rita said:

Don't fuse just the negative lead. Just don't. Mount the fuse or breaker as close as possible to the source (battery). Fusing only the negative will negate any protection for the positive wiring. 

Tks. understood. 

2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger "
  Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood "
    2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog "
 

 

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