Wire type - Type 2 vs Type 3

[alan0043]

Hi Everyone,

 

I have a question or too about wire type. There is several different wire types out there. I think I have it narrowed down to two different wire types that could do the job for me. I will stay away from the wire from the big box stores. I am looking at type 2 vs type 3. I need to do some wiring on the truck. What wire would you use ? I would like to buy the wire local if at all possible. Where do I start my search to buy local ? Auto parts store ? Is the wire type marked on the wire ? The size wire that I need is 12 gauge. Also need to do some soldering of wires to get extra length.

 

Any help with my education would be appreciated,

Al

[castlewood57]

For any mobile wiring being truck, car, camper, etc. I would highly recommend not soldering any wiring if at all possible, and if you do have an area that needs soldering set up a waterproof box with connectors.

It takes a bit of extra planning but any additional wiring, and there always some additional wiring to be done later will be much easier.

As for wiring go with type 3 more strands in the wire, easier to bend as well, but make sure the bends are not too tight, think of it like laying railroad track, nice easy curves will help protect the wire.

It's going to be exposed to lots of vibration, so the more you can 'baby' it the better it will work for you and last longer as well.

 

Chuck

[Mark and Dale Bruss]

Discussion on Marine Grade Wire and on Crimp versus Solder

[alan0043]

Discussion on Marine Grade Wire and on Crimp versus Solder

 

Thanks Mark for the info.

 

Al

[Scrap]

For your 2012 you'd use SXL, GXL, or TXL under the hood and thru the frame if you are looking for the 250 deg wire. It is made for the heat and should last. That's the crosslinked wire though so if the rats and rabbits in the news recently worries you then maybe use the Honda tape instead of electrical tape to put the new harness together?

[forxlr8n]

Nothing is soldered from the factory in a Volvo. We never solder anything on race cars either makes the joint brittle. **** Use a GOOD set of crimpers**** not the $10 pair. Also use the naked ends and dual wall heat shrink.

 

 

 

DO not use the crimp/low temp solder/heat shrink connectors EVER.

 

We wired a Turbo car completely with these and had to cut everyone of them back out.

 

[rickeieio]

Ah, a '69 'Cuda.

[alan0043]

For your 2012 you'd use SXL, GXL, or TXL under the hood and thru the frame if you are looking for the 250 deg wire. It is made for the heat and should last. That's the crosslinked wire though so if the rats and rabbits in the news recently worries you then maybe use the Honda tape instead of electrical tape to put the new harness together?

 

Scrap,

 

Is the letters SXL, GXL, or TXL marked on the wire ?

 

Al

[Scrap]

Good question, I've never really looked actually. You'll end up knowing by feel. It'll be on the package though. It'll probably be a specialty shop sort of thing and not really big-box. You probably don't want to waste your time on SXL as the stuff sucks and doesn't really fit anything. The other two are more normal.

[peety3]

Color me confused, but I'm seeing two polar-opposite camps here: people who are adamant about not soldering the connections, and people who believe that soldering makes the connection so much better (granted, the link that was provided indicates that soldering should be done on a crimped connection). Which end is up? My vote says to solder - it maximizes the useful surface area for electron transfer and provides adhesion to keep wire 1 connected to wire 2, etc.

[Jim & Wilma]

Either soldering or crimping, done correctly for the application, can be acceptable splicing methods. For our application of splicing wires, it’s hard to argue against a crimped butt splice covered in heat shrink. For some light reading on splice types, see page 67 of NASA-STD 8739.4A, Workmanship Standard for Crimping, Interconnecting Cables, Harnesses, and Wiring.