mkvacik Posted October 25, 2016 Report Share Posted October 25, 2016 I think I have pretty well decided mid is the way to go, but IF I were to decide to go short, can you use the stock drive shaft? I know the rear diff has a smaller yoke than what the power divider does, can you get a large yoke for the rear diff? Even if you did, would the length work, or would it be too short due to the pinion being lower on the rear diff than it is on the power divider? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIBERNUT Posted October 25, 2016 Report Share Posted October 25, 2016 If you change the yoke on the rear axle, it will need to be completely reset. There is a sleeve inside that is compressed when torque'd down, a different yoke requires new sleeve and retorque to set the clearances. Use the smaller yoke, never heard of one fail with our light loads. You will need a new tube even if you go short, be sure shop has a metric tube not US or get a longer used one to cut down. Be SURE the shop has done this before, the correct phasing of the bearing ends is CRITICAL. 2000 Volvo 635 A/S, N-14 Cummins"The Phoenix"'03 KA 38KSWB http://s918.photobucket.com/user/sibernut/library/?sort=6&page=1Furkids- Sibe's CH. Sedona & Tseika Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billr Posted October 25, 2016 Report Share Posted October 25, 2016 What Ron said. I singled short. Took my final measurements into driveline shop. They were very familiar building these. New tube cut to length and std front yoke and one from rear shaft reused and welded on new tube so it fit the final drive diff. Balanced Perfect fit and no issues. I used the original u joints as shop said they were just fine. Very little wear. They are checked annually and sure to accept grease. Bill and Joan and 3 Collie pups 2001 Volvo VNL 770 "The Doghouse" Singled short, "ET" hItch VED12 465HP Gen 1 Autoshift 3.58 ratio 2005 Mobile Suite 38RL3 2011 Smart Passion loaded piggybacK Weigh-It Portable RV Scales http://www.weighitrv.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mkvacik Posted October 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 basically I was asking to take away my one reason I was still considering singling short, which was cost. I have a cousin who builds drive shafts, so not a problem there. Basically it wouldn't cost any different other than the cost of bolts single mid vs short. So if it is only a time thing, I thing Mid, maybe a tick ahead of true mid is the way I am going to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted October 26, 2016 Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 Short could prevent you from hauling a car/bike but your wheelbase will determine this. I have seen some short and looked mid. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrap Posted October 28, 2016 Report Share Posted October 28, 2016 If you have a SPL250 for a main d/l there is one yoke that will fit. The OD is too small though so you need to tack on some shim stock to get the slinger to press on. I can't remember on the length but it might need to be turned down to match the yoke that came off too. Otherwise you'll need to make a bastardized shaft that matches the yoke that is already on the rear carrier. If you have a 1710 or SPL170 main d/l then there are yokes for that which are easy to get. A SPL 170 i/a shaft was optional so it is possible to have a SPL170 main d/l and a 1710 i/a d/l, in which case you'd have to change the yoke for that too. If you have a flexair suspension remember that it is only 17K singled, not 20K so take that into account in your plans too. A Low Air Leaf will be 20K like all the other trucks around here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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