PRESSURE MONITOR WIRING

[Refuzn-To-Grow-Up]

I have a 2008 Volvo 780 with D16 engine. I have a Pressure Pro tire monitor, which has paid for itself twice now. I will NEVER tow without one!

 

I have been powering the Pressure Pro from a cigarette socket since the day I bought it. I would like to get a little more sophisticated

and "hardwire" the Pressure Pro to a power source that is energized when I turn the key to the "run" position.

 

I know that the many Volvo's computers are "fussy" and I do not want to "upset" any of them.

 

So, for those of you have hardwired a Pressure Pro to a key activated power source, what do you recommend that I "tap" into AND what circuits should I absolutely avoid.

 

Thanks for you help.

 

 

[SuiteSuccess]

Look at your fuse panel and you will see several "slots" that are ignition activated but aren't being used. Use a spade connector for power on one side and a good ground and you're set. Will see if I can find a pic of mine. On edit can't get picture to up load. I have six slots in the upper right of my panel that were ignition activated. Several of these were empty. When you lift the lid of your panel it should have a legend describing the function of each slot. Also be sure to put an appropriate sized in line fuse in your wiring. BTW my Volvo didn't mind the wiring .

[Refuzn-To-Grow-Up]

Suite Success:

 

Thanks!. I'll see if I can do this without screwing it up. I am more comfortable in the "gearhead" department.

 

Jim

[MrSeas]

Jim,

We could have helped you thru it at he WCR!

[Refuzn-To-Grow-Up]

Jim,

We could have helped you thru it at he WCR!

I know. But, then, I was still tolerating the inconvenience of plugging it in every trip.

 

Recently, I made adjustments on my GPS monitor stand and it is just a matter of time before the monitor is swung over to the passenger side and the plug gets broken.

 

So, I need to get it done before the next trip.

[HERO Maker]

Jim, don't know if this is the best way to do it, but I just hard wired it to the power studs for the cb radio, using the connection in the dash. Now this is on all the time, but the draw on the batteries is pretty light. You can take a look at your pressure anytime! If I'm always plugging in the truck when not towing, the battery minder will do all it needs to do.

[SuiteSuccess]

Jim,

 

If you're coming to National be happy to show you my wiring. Also mounted my backup camera monitor in the dash so it is ignition activated also.

[Refuzn-To-Grow-Up]

Jim, don't know if this is the best way to do it, but I just hard wired it to the power studs for the cb radio, using the connection in the dash. Now this is on all the time, but the draw on the batteries is pretty light. You can take a look at your pressure anytime! If I'm always plugging in the truck when not towing, the battery minder will do all it needs to do.

 

Rocky:

 

After some thought, I like your idea of "on all the time" because I do not have to wait for the Pressure Pro to "find" all of the sensors. Plus, I can hardwire it to the cigarette circuit that I am already using to avoid the fussy computer issues.

 

 

I have a "master" power switch on the HDT. When I place the HDT in storage, I shut off all power, which would shut off the Pressure Pro. If I should need to to shut down the Pressure Pro, I can just pull the plug on it.

[Refuzn-To-Grow-Up]

Jim,

 

If you're coming to National be happy to show you my wiring. Also mounted my backup camera monitor in the dash so it is ignition activated also.

Suite:

 

Thanks for the offer.

 

I have been to the National Rally twice and loved every minute of it. Unfortunately, I simply cannot make it this year.

 

Jim

[SuiteSuccess]

Can't really see well but upper right is where I tapped in. Farthest right white plug is rear camera. To right of that is TPMS grounded with spade connector into one terminal of fuse connector and ground (yellow wire) to screw in frame.

[Mark and Dale Bruss]

I tapped the CB power source. While you are at it, put in a fuse block for future power requirements.

[Refuzn-To-Grow-Up]

Thanks everyone for the quick responses. It is great to be able to ask for help . . . . before I start a project. I just finished the project.

 

I used the cigarette lighter circuit that I have been using, to power the Pressure Pro, for all of these years. It was fuse #77 and it had a 25amp fuse in it. Since I was doing "brain surgery," I added a double USB port for the passenger. The DW will be able to plug in her phone, I-pad or tablet (too many gizmos for me ).

 

To protect the Pressure Pro, I wired in an inline spade lug fuse holder. I installed a 3amp fuse. To protect the USB port, I wired in an inline spade lug fuse holder. I installed a 7.5amp fuse.

 

Mark: I like the idea of a fuse block for future expansion.

 

Have a great time at the National Rally . . . . for those of you attending. I wish that I could make it. Maybe next year.

 

Jim

[RickW]

Jim, I see you already finished the project but thought I show what I did as it may give you or others some other idea's.

 

Originally I just had my Pressure Pro using the overhead 12v power outlet next to the CB overhead mount. I have always had my Pressure Pro monitor mounted on the the overhead storage door at the drivers position. I never had anything stored in the overhead over the driver except the excess wire. All of the switch openings were blank. So here is what I did ....

 

I did not know of the accessory posts that Rocky and Carl talk about at the time I did this project. So I decided to run my own 30A power line directly from the batteries to the overhead into a BlueSkys fuse block in the drivers overhead storage. Just before the power runs in to the fuse block I added a 30A relay. The relay is connected to the CB power posts. Basically what this does is this allows anything on the power block to always have power unless the Volvo Low Voltage system kicks then. When it kicks in the Relay loses power and opens so that everything running off the block loses power.

 

Now with the fuse block in place I had plenty of power with out having to cut/splice in to original Volvo wiring or worry about draining my batteries if I forgot and left something on. Because it is so much fun pulling wire from the baggage compartment I pulled a few extra wires for future use so that I would not have to repeat the process as I added any additional electronic items that were unknown at the time of doing this project. Has saved a lot of time as I have since added a few electronic things.

 

 

Volvo is pretty proud of their switches so I had some Rocker Switches with their housings laying around. They fit right in after shaving about 1/32" off the bottom of the opening in the Volvo trim. Then all I had to do was run a lead to each switch from the power fuse block. Then connected the output side of the switch to those extra wires I mentioned before. For the Pressure Pro and my GPS I picked up a couple of those power outlet sockets at an auto parts store so that I did not have to modify the wiring for those two items. Just plug them in and when I need them flip the switch. (FYI the switch marked YLW was for the Yellow wire I pulled to the baggage compartment. It has since been used just have not broken out the label maker to fix that part).

 

Did the same thing at the dash too. Just a different housing/bezel for the rocker switches. Still have 3 unused switches there. I guess I need to go electronics shopping .....

 

[SuiteSuccess]

Nice Rick. I'm just not that inventive.

[Refuzn-To-Grow-Up]

 

Volvo is pretty proud of their switches so I had some Rocker Switches with their housings laying around. They fit right in after shaving about 1/32" off the bottom of the opening in the Volvo trim. Then all I had to do was run a lead to each switch from the power fuse block. Then connected the output side of the switch to those extra wires I mentioned before. For the Pressure Pro and my GPS I picked up a couple of those power outlet sockets at an auto parts store so that I did not have to modify the wiring for those two items. Just plug them in and when I need them flip the switch.

 

 

 

I like the way you got around the pricey Volvo switches.

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

Any of the Carling style switches should fit the factory Volvo panels with little modification. May need to scrape an edge with a razor blade, but the do fit.

[RickW]

Jim - I just used a Dremal to shave maybe 1/32" or less off the bottom of the switch opening in the Volvo trim.

 

On the dash console where there are two switches there was a divider in the Volvo trim that had to be removed. Real quick and easy.

[Refuzn-To-Grow-Up]

Jim - I just used a Dremal to shave maybe 1/32" or less off the bottom of the switch opening in the Volvo trim.

 

On the dash console where there are two switches there was a divider in the Volvo trim that had to be removed. Real quick and easy.

 

THANKS! I will be using this trick to install a switch in my dash.

 

I want to be able to control the landing gear, of my trailer, from the cab of my HDT. I know some folks are using winch remote control devices, but I prefer hardwire. My plan is to install the relay controls in the RV and run a cable to the HDT that will be wired to the dash switch, to activate the coils of the relays.

 

Additionally, I will be able to control the landing gear from the RV.

 

So many projects and so little time.