GlennWest Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 I have checked, double, trple times the wiring. Testing connections 12.7 volts to running lights. Isolated no shorts show with ohm meter. Blows 15 amp fuse instantly when turn truck lights on. Fuse on Teton blowing. Not truck. Also charge line blows 30 amp. Now I do have 2 swelled batteries. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 All the truck side Jackaloppe wiring tests out OK? Then run a jumper on your Teton plug from 12v power to each source- Brake lights, running, turn signals, etc. Don't plug into the truck, but make a long lead to use from either RV batteries or Truck. If your RV batteries are swollen there may be a short in one of them. Try disconnecting the RV batteries and plug into the truck and see if that makes a difference. Alie & Jim + 8 paws 2017 DRV Memphis BART- 1998 Volvo 610 Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted May 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 I suspect the batteries may be causing charge fuse to blow. 2 are swollen and am getting Agms to replace with, Teton. The running lights I don't understand. They are in plastic housings. Shows hot going to circuit for Teton. This is fused for protection. As soon as fuse installed blows. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted May 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 Fixing to double check jackalope 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSeas Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 Disconnect the charge line at the truck side of the Jackalopee and see what you have.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted May 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 Jackalope has steady red light when lights turned on in camper. Cord had 12 volts on it going to fuse book. Blows 15 amp fuse. No short reading with ohm. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSeas Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 You might be " back feeding" 12 volts from camper to truck. Disconnect trailer from the truck and check for no lights on at Jackalopee. Make sure you have everything turned off at the truck. Take your meter and check each light circuit at the truck plug. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted May 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 Ok, removed black hot wire from jacolee and installed circuit breaker on Teton. Arched and got hot rather fast. Removed circuit breaker. Had wire in jackalope on 12 switch before unpluging 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted May 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 Oh we are at Livingston Escapees 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted May 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 Removed blue wire and put black on direct in jackalope. Still circuit breaker gets hot. Not ad quick this way. My inverter also whines. Is being hooked up to shore power causing this?. My running lights major problem. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSeas Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 Disconnect power from Jackalopee! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSeas Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 Disconnect trailer from the truck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted May 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 Ok with blue and black wires removed from jackolee still heating up circuit breaker. Fuses were getting costly. Lol. Disconnected cord to trailer to truck no arch, no heating up. Does this on running lights and charge line. Turns work. Brake seems to. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 With the Jack wired properly, do you have the correct functions at the back of the truck? If you do then its in the trailer somewhere- start in the pinbox to see if something is frayed or loose. Alie & Jim + 8 paws 2017 DRV Memphis BART- 1998 Volvo 610 Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 Sounds like its backfeeding thru the RV somehow. The inverter charger / converter should provide 12v for the trailer if you disconnect the batteries. Alie & Jim + 8 paws 2017 DRV Memphis BART- 1998 Volvo 610 Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted May 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 Yes that may be all that is but not the running lights. With ohm meter shows no continuity to ground. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronbo Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 Disconnect wires from jackalope. Plug in trailer. Connect wires one at a time until you find the problem. You have something wired wrong someplace. Also check wires coming from trailer plug to jackalope with trailer connected and see which has voltage on it. Ron C. 2013 Dynamax Trilogy 3850 D3 2000 Kenworth T2000 Optimus Prime Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted May 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 I will try that morrow. Done for today. I used test light and everything matched up.held plug up to it and verified wiring. Oh with truck disconnected fuses hold. So no wiring short in Teton. I did use commercial metal plug on truck and trailer cord. Much better components. Matched wiring for rv. I have taken every plug apart and checked except one on truck. It tests good with test light. Going to take class a test morrow. Planning on taking truck to shop thursday to check 4 wheel alignment. Truck don't drive good. Likely friday before back on this. They telling me here a month wait for driving test. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeverEasy Posted May 5, 2016 Report Share Posted May 5, 2016 You need to isolate which end is working. If everything was working but then started blowing fuses something likely got shorted to ground. The usual culprit is the connection box in the pin hitch. The easiest place to start is at the trailer plug. I tried to upload a picture but it will not work. This is looking into the trailer plug. With the plug key at the top, the top left should be 12V. Ground is diagonally across from that, at bottom right. Check with a meter or one of those idiot light things. If there is 12V on the top left, proceed to check the lights. Short these pins together to see what is working: top left (12V) to top right (running lights). top left to center left (Right turn) top left to center right (left turn) top left to center pin (backup lights) electric brakes is on bottom left. It will draw about 12 amps so don't be too surprised if you get a big spark if you connect top left to bottom left. Chet & Deb '01 Volvo 660 w/ Smart '19 Forest River Columbus 320RS 5th wheel 2022 Chev 2500HD Long Bed Retired CWO4, USN and federal service Electronics Tech/Network Engineer/Welder/Machinist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted May 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2016 I have right and left turn signals. Everything is in order as I found on trailer plug diagrams on line. It all worked fine with dually. I can here with no brakes or lights. Was in daylight though. At park we were in, I could not back up truck to camper and work on this. I would block road. I downloaded instructions for jackolee and corrected wiring company did. As stated plug checks right with test light. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeverEasy Posted May 5, 2016 Report Share Posted May 5, 2016 Sounds like the trailer is not the problem. You stated you used commercial metal receptacle and plug. It is possible that the trailer plug is pushing the receptacle's pin into the metal casing or vice versa. Therefore, the problem would only show up when the trailer is plugged to the truck. I know there is not much room inside the casing for wires and all of us like to use the biggest wire we can cram in there to handle the current better. Chet & Deb '01 Volvo 660 w/ Smart '19 Forest River Columbus 320RS 5th wheel 2022 Chev 2500HD Long Bed Retired CWO4, USN and federal service Electronics Tech/Network Engineer/Welder/Machinist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted May 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2016 I took the male end apart today. All was good. I will pull apart the truck receptacle next. I have to agree but it all checks good with test light. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronbo Posted May 5, 2016 Report Share Posted May 5, 2016 Sounds like a short between the ground and hot. Easy to do and easy to fix. Ron C. 2013 Dynamax Trilogy 3850 D3 2000 Kenworth T2000 Optimus Prime Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeverEasy Posted May 5, 2016 Report Share Posted May 5, 2016 Look on the inside of the shell for signs of arcing. Chet & Deb '01 Volvo 660 w/ Smart '19 Forest River Columbus 320RS 5th wheel 2022 Chev 2500HD Long Bed Retired CWO4, USN and federal service Electronics Tech/Network Engineer/Welder/Machinist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkennell Posted May 5, 2016 Report Share Posted May 5, 2016 Glenn: Every single time I borrow or get a new trailer, I end up rewiring something because it is wired incorrectly for "their truck". (MY vehicles are wired per code...NOW! I understand the other farmer cause I used to be like that....) So I never assume, I always start at square one and check EVERY WIRE for the correct pinouts. Oh and I'm supposed to be a wiring "expert" (troubleshooting DC wiring is my JOB) and I can't tell you the # of times I put something together "right" and then tested it, only to realize that I had swapped a couple wires by accident. It sorta sounds like your Dually wiring might have swapped the lights and brake wire or something like that. I think I would start by disconnecting everything, Connect a jumper cable from the RV Frame to the truck frame. connect a jumper wire thru a CB from a measured 12V pin on the truck to the running lights pin only of the RV plug. IF the lights come on, great, the problem is in the conversion or plug on the truck. If they don't then you have a problem in the trailer wiring. Check a few of the other pins and see if any of them make the trailer lights come on. If the Lights came on in step 3 above, disconnect the frame to frame jumper cable and run a clip from the ground pin on the RV plug to the ground pin on the truck. Do they still come on? If not, make SURE the ground wire from the trailer is in the correct pin on the RV plug connector (I've seen plugs where ground and 12V charge are backwards! "It works on his truck!"). Check resistance to the frame of the trailer and make sure its only 1-2 ohms. That should at least get you started in the right direction. If you are coming anywhere near Rt 80 in IL, stop in and we will figure it out. No camper at present. Way too many farm machines to maintain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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