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Is this a fair price on a 2012 VNL 670


alan0043

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Hi Everyone,

 

I found a 2012 670 with an I-shift and a D13 engine with 500,000 to 520,000 miles for $49,900. Is this truck worth looking at ? Is this a fair price ? The truck needs to be converted to rv use. It is coming off the road. It has all the service records and passed all DOT inspections. I am looking for thoughts.

 

Please post thoughts,

Al

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Good morning,

 

If you haven't already done so, I would look at Gregg Shields presentation of how to find a truck. He has lots of helpful information. How close is the truck to you? Are you mechanical inclined and do you want to do some of the work on it yourself? Have you ever driven a HDT? From the info you gave it would be something I would drive a few miles to see (if I was interested in a newer truck). Opening the door was sometimes all I needed to eliminate a vehicle from my selection process. Are you that type also? For some, they want to look at 100 trucks before buying and others want to look at as few as possible. Where do you fit? Good luck with your search and post photos and comments if you do go and look closer. A link to the ad is sometimes good but then you run the risk of having someone who is ready to buy possibly snatching it away.

 

On a side note for those reading this topic. Another member and I have discussed increasing the value of your trucks with our insurance companies. We purchased several years ago when the market was down and to replace a truck now due to an accident wouldn't work out too well. (The insurance companies allowed purchase price as their valuation.) Would a topic of valuation of various year trucks be helpful? It will cost more for the insurance but would it be worth it? Adding $10K is $50 annually in my instance. (Insurance agent can't guarantee that the additional $10,000 would actually be paid by the insurance company, it would depend on "market value". Only way to find market value is to see what similar trucks have sold for. Not a real good place to find that with our vehicles. No NADA book. Sorry if this is off topic. I will start a new topic if there is interest.

Rod

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Hi Rod,

 

Thank you for some insight. I already own a htd. It has a manual transmission. If I want to keep camping the way that I am doing now, I need to up grade to an I-shift transmission. On the pass camping trip, which was to the '16 ECR, I needed several tries to back the trailer into the camping spot. After I had the trailer in place and got out of the truck, I could feel the difference in my left leg vs my right leg. The nice thing about this trip was Gregg was there. I sat in on his presentation about finding a truck. I am mechanically inclined. I have done several things to my truck to help improve it. I think a good resource to find truck prices might be Truck Paper. I wasn't sure if anyone was looking at 4 year old trucks might have a idea about prices. The truck is about a 2 hour drive away for me. I am planning on making a trip to see this truck.

 

 

 

"If you haven't already done so, I would look at Gregg Shields presentation of how to find a truck. He has lots of helpful information. How close is the truck to you? Are you mechanical inclined and do you want to do some of the work on it yourself? Have you ever driven a HDT? From the info you gave it would be something I would drive a few miles to see (if I was interested in a newer truck). Opening the door was sometimes all I needed to eliminate a vehicle from my selection process. Are you that type also? For some, they want to look at 100 trucks before buying and others want to look at as few as possible. Where do you fit? Good luck with your search and post photos and comments if you do go and look closer. A link to the ad is sometimes good but then you run the risk of having someone who is ready to buy possibly snatching it away."

 

Al

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If you want to get a feel for the prices on a given truck, the easiest way to do it is go to: http://www.truckpaper.com/

 

On the first page there is a heading Heavy Duty Trucks(detailed search). Put in 3 or 4 parameters, try not to make the search too tight. In your case put in Volvo,2012, 670, i-shift. Down the bottom you can limit the geographic area, but I would go all the USA since you are just getting a market price.

 

Arrow Truck Sales is the primary remarketer for Volvo trucks that come out of large fleet sale customers. It is owned partially by Volvo. That is another website worth looking into, and if there is a Arrow location it might be worth going to.

 

I did the search above for 2011-2013 Volvo 670's with I-shift and 295 trucks came up ranging in price from $38k to $75k. I open up the years because model year is a lousy indicator of when the truck was actually put in service and started rolling serious miles.

 

Good luck.

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I also agree with beyerjf's post. As long as you can live withe the 670 size cab the dollar amount looks acceptable. It gets a plus for having lower mileage (must not have been team driven) and a plus for the service records. Hopefully when you do what IRod suggests and open the door, the owners took care of the truck interior and didn't smoke in it. If you can review the service records and see if they had done common emission items that fall like EGR valves and injector cups, whatever might be common with that engine and truck and use that to negiotate a lower price if not done recently.

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Here is a couple of things to look for, based upon my experience (I have a 2008 780):

 

1. Was the HDT driven in the snow? If yes, look for rust. A snow truck has lots of rust . . . . lots of rust . . . . everywhere. I have a snow truck and to remove fasteners, I have to soak the fasteners, overnight, with Kroil. Even then, sometimes the fasteners are so "frozen with "corrosion, I have to cut them off with a slitter.

 

2. Look at the sheet metal on the bottom of the doors. If the door drain holes got plugged, the sheet metal will have cancerous rust at the bottom of the door. I had to replace my right front door because the rust was too extensive to repair.

 

3. Does the truck hold air? Volvos have push fittings and the o-rings get hard and no longer seal. "Mr. Seas" has an excellent post on how to repair and replace O-rings. He even provided part numbers for the o-rings and collets. I just fixed a major leak (my HDT would bleed down to zero in about and hour). Been chasing it from the day I bought the truck. Turns out the collet had two broken fingers. I installed new collet and o-ring and that leak is GONE! Truck now takes 24 hours to bleed down to zero.

 

4. Check the fairings. Do they rattle when they are in the locked position? If so, you will be spending some money (about $400 parts only) to repair them. I just finished mine and they now lock up solid, with no play whatsoever. Prior to the repair, they would move back and forth about 1/4"

 

There is an electronic leak "sniffer" (cost about $200, as I recall) that was mentioned in one of the HDT posts. If I were to buy another HDT, I would take my sniffer with me and check the entire truck. This would included airbags, tranny and all fittings. BTW, it works on water leaks too. I had a leaky sprinkler and it found the defective valve. You can stand back about five feet from the truck and just point it at the truck. If there is a leak, you will hear it. Best money I ever spent.

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