Low power shutdown circuit

[porky69]

A little info about this highly contested low power shutdown module: it is an option that you can order (or not)when you factory order ANY make of HDT, they do not make the truck any safer/unsafer, fool-proof or anything else. It does try to save your batteries if you should accidentally leave something turned on, but I have driven trucks with this wonderful little module and they do, after time, have a tendency to disconnect at the most inopportune time (ie batteries are not dead, nothing was left on, etc).

 

If I was in your boots, I would be getting rid of it....but I would also make sure that the bypass solution I used was appropriate. ie proper gauge of wire, quality connectors, etc...not duct tape and bubble gum type fix.

 

I hope that noteven isn't going to get slammed for suggesting "hacking" into the factory electrical system and adding a set of battery disconnects (which are also a factory option that not everyone specifies).

 

If I (as a truck driver with fairly in-depth knowledge of the various systems on HDT's) ripped on everyone who asks a question which I think they should know the answer to, or if I do not agree with what they are doing, I would have been banned from the site a long time ago. There are reasons that COMMERCIAL truck drivers have special licences to drive these units, it is so they have basic working knowledge of the most basic areas of the truck/trailer, and the reason mechanic shops charge an arm and a leg for there services is because they have intimate knowledge (hopefully) of the system they work on. Not everyone knows all of the answers but if you talk to a large group you should be able to come to an acceptable conclusion.

[GlennWest]

Thank you so much. I was so very disappointed in what this turned into. Believe that is behind us now. I did use the factory large wire, think they are 6 or 8 gauge. I remove output cable and installed it on top, same stud, of intake cable. Did not unplug the small wires plug form module. This is only thing I was unsure of. Everything works and no errors.

[porky69]

No problem!

 

If you just connected the factory wires onto the same stud then I would say you have nothing to worry about, the only way you could make it better is to find a really smart parts guy at your local Freightliner dealer and get him/her to order you the factory one piece wire for a truck without this module(most parts people would only be able to find this if you give them the VIN for a truck that is set up this way), but that is going WAAAAAYYYY overboard. However it wouldn't hurt to put some dielectric grease on the connection to prevent further corrosion.

[Jack Mayer]

Thank you, Porky, for the right answer to this exercise.

 

In general, modifying electrical systems on the truck is to be avoided. But when necessary a correct job for small changes is fine. But my general advice is to avoid "redoing" truck electrical, and keep your electrical "add-on's" isolated from the truck systems. Which is why you use a Jackaloppee and not cut into the truck systems for your trailer light interface.

 

On my 99 Volvo I eliminated the cab protection module because it performed pretty much as Porky described. On this truck I have left it intact.

[Big5er]

Thank you, Porky, for the right answer to this exercise.

 

In general, modifying electrical systems on the truck is to be avoided. But when necessary a correct job for small changes is fine. But my general advice is to avoid "redoing" truck electrical, and keep your electrical "add-on's" isolated from the truck systems. Which is why you use a Jackaloppee and not cut into the truck systems for your trailer light interface.

 

On my 99 Volvo I eliminated the cab protection module because it performed pretty much as Porky described. On this truck I have left it intact.

Who says that by passing electrical parts by unskilled owners is "the" right answer? Who is to say that it isn't a fire waiting to start? Guessing that you did something right and asking for approval isn't, in my opinion, the "right" way to do anything. Coming on the forum and asking "hey, can I do this and how?" would be a lot better than "I already did this wrong, but can I backyard engineer this permanently or should I fix it right and put the truck back the way it was made?"

 

Jack, you are the ONE who told me if I didn't have $5000 EXTRA just sitting in the bank to fix my truck then don't drive it. I've been throwing everything extra into rebuilding my credit so I can overcome that divorce debt and buy a new trailer. I skipped Kansas last year because I didn't have that $5000 in the bank in case I broke down AGAIN. Now you are condoning bypassing an electrical component to save $200? Bypassing the EGR, an electrical component and then what is next? Is towing a heavy trailer with an LGT any worse than cobbling your HDT together because you can't fix it right?

 

I, for one, do not believe that this forum, though a vast collection of knowledge and data, should turn into a "how to jury rig your vehicle" forum. I have seen the way truckers do their trucks. Can't release the parking brakes on the trailer because the button doesn't work? NO PROBLEM, just plumb the brake tubing straight to the air tank. Who needs that pesky tractor protection valve anyway, right? Is that what we are going to become? I have no problem with discussions on how to fix your truck. Heck, I probably never would have gotten the door panel off if someone here hadn't mentioned that lousy, almost invisible screw. But the question here was basically "should I spend $200 or just make myself a jumper wire". We have also had several discussions here about bypassing or fixing the EGR valves and the basic consensus has always been to FIX them, not BYPASS them.

 

As it was pointed out earlier, unskilled operators depending on luck is dangerous. "I didn't even know who much air it was suppose to have." is how people get killed. "I didn't know" won't cut it in court. Neither will "the guys on the forum told me it would be ok".

[CDR]

A little info about this highly contested low power shutdown module: it is an option that you can order (or not)when you factory order ANY make of HDT, they do not make the truck any safer/unsafer, fool-proof or anything else. It does try to save your batteries if you should accidentally leave something turned on, but I have driven trucks with this wonderful little module and they do, after time, have a tendency to disconnect at the most inopportune time (ie batteries are not dead, nothing was left on, etc).

 

If I was in your boots, I would be getting rid of it....but I would also make sure that the bypass solution I used was appropriate. ie proper gauge of wire, quality connectors, etc...not duct tape and bubble gum type fix.

 

I hope that noteven isn't going to get slammed for suggesting "hacking" into the factory electrical system and adding a set of battery disconnects (which are also a factory option that not everyone specifies).

 

If I (as a truck driver with fairly in-depth knowledge of the various systems on HDT's) ripped on everyone who asks a question which I think they should know the answer to, or if I do not agree with what they are doing, I would have been banned from the site a long time ago. There are reasons that COMMERCIAL truck drivers have special licences to drive these units, it is so they have basic working knowledge of the most basic areas of the truck/trailer, and the reason mechanic shops charge an arm and a leg for there services is because they have intimate knowledge (hopefully) of the system they work on. Not everyone knows all of the answers but if you talk to a large group you should be able to come to an acceptable conclusion.

To Porky & Glenn,

 

As a Freightliner owner I have gone to great lengths to have every owner on here aware of the Access Freightliner support program. This would have given them access to all build data, vendor supplied parts, recalls and updates, parts schematics, service history and online service support!

 

But I keep hearing, I did this but now I'm waiting for my dealer to...... Sounds like the dealers in your areas don't want you to be informed so you have to rely on them? I have given the factory number out several times, just call them. I did mine all over the phone, didn't need to see a dealer.

 

So right now what come to mind is.....you can lead a horse to water........

 

Maybe if free money was involved? They would try harder?

 

My 2 cents

 

Curt

[GlennWest]

He sent me a screen copy off computer. It is updated with Freightliner warranty that I am the owner now. Access has not gotten back to me yet. What else can I do. You people on here make me sorry I brought this up.Jack or some other moderator would you please lock this or delete the whole thing. Sorry guys but this has gone too far.

[CDR]

Glenn,

 

Buddy just make a phone call...503-745-8000.

 

Curt

[Jack Mayer]

Porky had the right answer because he approached the situation the right way. Instead of jumping on someone he explained WHY what they were doing was probably OK. And the method to do it correctly - which in this case is not rocket science. I do not think I could make it more clear in what I said - in GENERAL modifying the electrical systems on the truck should be avoided. But if you use your head you can certainly do "some" things. I personally do not advocate interfacing YOUR stuff into the truck....it should be on its own.

[Star Dreamer]

Glenn,

 

Buddy just make a phone call...503-745-8000.

 

Curt

Curt,

 

When we called that number, we were advised to call another number, which we did. That person was helpful and took our information. Shortly afterwards we received an email stating we had to go to a local dealer to get issue with the request straightened out. We have a small dealer about 25 miles away and another larger one about 45 miles away. Our next service trip we did the larger dealer because we needed the ac worked on and the smaller dealers machine was inoperative. After spending hours trying to get the issue resolved, they thought they had done everything they could and said I should be getting an email. A few weeks later, I received a rejection email. So not everyone is getting access even if we go through the steps. When time allows I may try again but right now it is a waste of time.

 

In response to the comments to keep the truck original and not make elecrical modifications, means you should not be changing your ABS system because you singled, adding items to the dash, changing headlights to the ones provided by Nuke and should not be adding the extra lights on bed but we all do it.

 

Glenn eliminated an optional device that clearly was not working correctly and had no need at this time to have it work. There is no problem with this if the appropriate size wires and connections are made.

 

Since there are not as many Freightliner owners on here posting their problems and fixes as there are Volvo owners (or maybe that means we do not have as many issues!), we need to be acceptable of the changes that are made and be willing to assist not degrade what was done.

 

The resource guide is full of information on how to make changes from what the factories provide.

 

Dave