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Winch mount


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You need to sketch out what you are thinking. I think the mount can be used but needs to be modified.


If it is what I think it is, a couple of issues:


You need to allow height so that winch cable will not drag on bed side when car is on the ground. This means cable end at side of bed where winch is at needs to be higher than deck by "x" amount.


Now with no pulleys means the winch needs to be that high and must be mounted "y" inches away from bed so that car will not hit the winch and you have enough slack to allow unhooking the CSR so you can remove the winch.


Fairlead mount links like it might be on the wrong side of the winch mount you posted if you do not plan to use pulleys.


X and Y depend on your hitch point that you will be using on the car and how Long your ramps will be.

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Having loaded and unloaded mine more than a few times, I'll add to SD's list.

  • As the car gets closer to the winch, as currently configured, the cable will pull down on the bumper collapsing the cheezy material under neath, I've done it.
  • It is better to have an A frame stood off the side of the truck with 2 pulleys. The top one to be the same ht as the pull point on the car but offset left or rt of that same point...slightly. Sometimes the car rolls to the passengers side of the truck deck if loading with that side low. If it were to jump the chocks the A frame would stop it.
  • Doing it your way, you'd have to have cable disconnects, maybe forklift or auto wrecker plugs.http://www.globalindustrial.ca/g/material-handling/forklifts-attachments/chargers-connectors/Forklift-Plug-Socket-Electrical-Connectors
  • You would be doing a single pull which is very jerky. I have enough cable to go to the back of the car and back to the winch using a snatch block on the rear bumper. This gives me a slower pull and not jerky. My finger can still be on the remote with 1 hand and with the other turn the steering wheel or even wrench the car wheel in or out and keep the pull going.
  • Mine is a double A frame..2 deck receivers, Jacks' is 1 as I recall. 1 would do. It can easily be stored in the outside passengers side box under the dinette.
  • If you go a wired remote, have it wired to the drivers side if that is the side you load from. The wired remote has a 10 foot coily wire which snaps back just out of reach when stretched to the ramp side. So I also have a wireless remote and keep an xtra set of batteries in my battery storage compartment....Cab ashtray, I don't smoke.
  • A 2 ton Warn winch is more than adequate even for a single pull. This is what Herrin put on mine.

I can send or try to post pics of my installation but will need to drink a couple of Mango Vodka coolers as Photobucket is still a challenge.

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I'll be going with Darryl's method, putting the winch on a bar between the two bumper eye bolts on the car. With the winch wired to the smart battery. No cable protection required, short control cable to your switch.


Darryl posted a picture just a short time back. Perhaps he'll check in shortly.

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I'm too lazy to tote the winch around. My winch is mounted and permanently wired.

Yes, I've been thinking of that too. My solution is to drive the car to the cabinet where the winch is stored, which is right under the nose of the car when loaded. Hook everything up, drive the car into position and winch 'er up. When loaded, just lower the winch, then the spreader bar, into the said cabinet, and slam the door.


After following this forum for several years, I've come to expect clever solutions from many of you folks. Darryl is high on that list.


That said, he's a good bit younger than I, and wrestling the winch should be much easier for him. :D

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I been kicking ideas around. Saw that mount and gears started turning. I likely go with Daryl's method. Very aware of pulleys advantage. My industry uses them on practically every lift. The more wraps the slower it is though. Anyone seen a 9 part cable lift. Turtle speed.

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The part of my design I like, is that it's not locked to one vehicle, or one purpose. It's been used on the ATV, ratchet strapped to the front of a trailer to load a dead motorcycle, used in the shop to move material around, etc. The weight of the winch and crossbar isn't much more than some of the pulley/riser set-ups on here, and because it's a straight package, I feel it's an easier to handle package than some of the ideas. I may be just a kid, but almost all my years have been spent attending the "School of Farming".

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Darryl, I agree with you on dual purposing when possible and necessary, the more dual purpose items I have when kayak camping the less stuff I have to haul and the less weight I have to paddle, but I am getting older. I have one car, one truck and one trailer. No ATV, farm equipment, etc. Maybe I am just getting lazy :)

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