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Power Divider INOOP


Fuzz

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2001 Volvo 770.Singled with the front axle left in place...Truck been sitting mostly for a couple years,due to health problems.Drove in to get an Emmision Sticker(CO).People that do the emissions wanted to borrow truck for the weekend.Broke down on them on way home.They had it pulled to their shop.Their mechanics haven't worked on a class 8.

Called around and truck place in N Denver claims they can convert this axle to a work same as drive axle.$2500.So we are going have it towed to them...as an aside I started the truck and aired it up.All seemed normal there as far as air and brakes.The F gauge fell down to 95 in a few minutes(truck turned off)The rear held fine.The driveshaft is off to tow it here,but I wonder if that air leak could have something to do with the Power Divider not working...Any suggestions are appreciated as always.Thanks

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When that truck was singled and all they did was leave the forward axle in that position and did not correctly move that rear axle to the forward position, then I believe you have a few more problems in front of you, then simple air leaks.

I'm sure more folks with better knowledge than me will chime in.

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And if the pressure protection valve happens to open while you are sitting there trying to figure out why things aren't moving it can grenade the teeth on the shift fork. That fork & diff aren't rated for full engine torque as well. They are supposed to have another axle back there to take some away. And I'm not one to get in the middle of someone's dealings with the shop, but if you made it for 5-7 years just fine but they grenaded it on their first day....... what exactly were they doing with your truck? And how hard were they doing it?

 

I also feel there needs to be quite a few more details with the new carrier or converting the same axle quote. I can't say I've ever tried it but I'm not 100% sure you can take an 18" carrier and stuff it into the fwd axle hole. Remember that the fwd axle has the bigger housing opening and I don't think a 23K rear carrier bolts right in. Even at that there would be some fab work to get the output shaft hole welded closed. On top of that you are going to need a $500 yoke and some driveshaft/carrier bearing bracket work to pay for as well.

 

Again, it is between you and the shop and I rarely talk prices but I got a bad feeling of a long list of overages about to happen - or a straight R&R carrier swap right back to what you had. Tread carefully......

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You could have multiple issues or they could be related. You said truck broke down on them but did not describe what happened. Trucks can break down for many reasons so a better description might helps others to give you guidance.

 

Using the front axle with the power divider is supposed to be a no-no. Make sure the shop that quoted you the $2500 gives you a detailed explanation of how they are going to fix it and if it is not replacing the front axle and power divider with an appropriate rear axle and redoing the drive shaft as a start, I would pass on it.

Dave

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