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20 gal hot water heater


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Our Teton only has a 10 gal water heater. We also have a dish washer. Needless to say we run out of hot water easily. I don't have sufficient clearance for a 16 gal unit. It is in direct line of sink and plumbing would have to be reworked and some supports. Considering a 20 or 18 gal 120v unit and put it in front storage area. Their is room for it. Can be placed close to front axle. Considering using electrical wiring off of existing unit if of ample size, 1500 watt. Keep the gas feature just in case. We have never not been in an rv park. They cost under $300 at Lowes. What ya'll think?

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We have an Atwood water heater that uses a tempering valve to mix cold water with super heated water to effectively emulate a larger water heater. I know the 'super heated' water can not be at boiling but the thing works as advertised for us. Running gas and electricity concurently would be the quick fix, though. Happy water heating. Charlie

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Actually we do use gas and electric together. Shortly after we acquired this unit I flushed the water heater due to shortage of hot water. It was full of calcium. I have flushed it several times and more keeps coming out. It runs out rather quick still. We never had an issue with the DRV 12 gallon heater, but we didn't have a dish washer either. Considered replacing it but explained in previous post my problem.

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Yes, I believe he made a typo. lol. It isn't a lot of weight. Actually Teton actually set up some units this way. That is what got me thinking this way. Also putting in a second rv heater would be more money and just as heavy. Only about a foot away from where I would put the residential. If not for having to gut my sink area I would put in a 16 gal rv unit. On the amount of water dishwasher uses I am unsure. I do know I take military showers and it gets cool as I finish. Not much hot water. I need to correct this. This is even nights not using dishwasher.

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If you can't get in a decent navy shower without the water cooling too much, there's something else going on besides the water capacity. When we're in a hurry, my wife and I can do back to back showers without running out of hot water with just our standard 6 gallon heater. Are you sure your heater is working properly? Are the bypass valves fully seated in the correct positions?

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Please explain why everyone is against this idea. 20 gallons is twice the water of 10. It's not really heavy. It is not expensive. I also don't believe any unit today with a dish washer or not comes with a 10 gallon except maybe some small TTs.

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160 lbs but you could add an inline valve to shut off the big heater and drain it when ready to travel.

Thanks for the catch, by bad. Should be 166.8#.

 

No problems with valves. It would heat water all the time if that. I personally believe it is still full of calcium. Can't get it out though.

Do you use a water heater flushing rod?

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I don't know that anyone is actually against the idea, least of all me. I did try to offer some lower cost alternatives first though, since your existing 10-gallon heater should be adequate for the demand. If you prefer to spend the money of course, that's certainly your prerogative. I see lots of RV's pretty much daily, and 6 and 10 gallon heaters are the two most common sizes I see by far. Atwood, for instance, doesn't even make a larger RV water heater, although the XT series does manage to stretch the 10 gallons to a 16 gallon equivalent by heating the water hotter than normal and incorporating a mixer valve to cool it back down for delivery. Suburban of course, does make units with up to an actual 16 gallon capacity, although the 6 and 10's are still the most commonly used.

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I don't know that anyone is actually against the idea, least of all me. I did try to offer some lower cost alternatives first though, since your existing 10-gallon heater should be adequate for the demand. If you prefer to spend the money of course, that's certainly your prerogative. I see lots of RV's pretty much daily, and 6 and 10 gallon heaters are the two most common sizes I see by far. Atwood, for instance, doesn't even make a larger RV water heater, although the XT series does manage to stretch the 10 gallons to a 16 gallon equivalent by heating the water hotter than normal and incorporating a mixer valve to cool it back down for delivery. Suburban of course, does make units with up to an actual 16 gallon capacity, although the 6 and 10's are still the most commonly used.

I based that on that when we were searching for a new rv all we found had 16 gal or the equivalent of 16. But they were all new.

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The problem IS the water heater. It needs to be thoroughly cleaned out to work properly.

 

We also have a just (9 months ago) installed Dishwasher and it uses less hot water (no cold) than doing dishes by hand.

 

We have had no impact on our hot water availability and we are full timers, using the dishwasher at least once a day.

 

Dave O

 

 

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You are not telling me nothing I don't know. I looked up on line at a cleaning rod and it is nothing but a device to direct water at angles. I did this myself. Got likely a quart or more of calcium clumps out of there. Scraped around and got bunch off of sides. Didn't help. That is why I want to replace it. I do appreciate everyone trying to help. I believe it is as clean as can be, at least a month ago it was. I could put a 12 gal in, it will fit with no mods.

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If you are running it on electric and it is not making enough hot water the thermostat may be the problem. Is it a suburban on atwood.

We have a Teton with a dish washer also. It works fine, if spaced apart from showers. If you are running it on electric and it is not heating enough hot water it maybe a wiring problem at the heating element. back in January our water heater was doing as you say. So I start look for what is going on and found the hot wire going to the element was discolored at the terminal end. It apparently passed a lower amount of amps but still worked. Just there was a small amount of hot water. Turned the power off trimmed the wire back a small amount, installed a new connector end and now the water works as designed.

Ours is a suburban water heater.

About four weeks ago a customer called and wanted a new water heater installed. he already purchased the water heater. So I installed his new water heater.

While doing the exchange I looked for the same end as on mine and there was a bad wire end. He said a previous mobile tech seen the wire but did not have a new wire to install at the time.

That wire from the factory is very short on extra wire but there was enough for me to get a new end on it.

The other thing it could be is the switch on the bottom left corner on the outside. That is if it is a suburban. They tend to burn out so much that I usually carry them in my service vehicle .

 

Just trying to help with a simple solution to your problem.

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I don't see any reason you couldn't run two in series. I did that with my stix & bricks(two 50 gal.) Where we were there was a lot of calcium build up. What I did was flush out as much as possible, then duct taped a small piece of clear tubing to the end of a shop vac hose and shoved it into the tank to suck out what wouldn't flush out. It's an easy way to increase the longevity of a hot water heater, and the heating element.

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My electric works. I had that same issue with the wire burning on my Mobile Suites, wire was short on it too. When I flushed our Teton unit, I replaced element (burned into), anode, thermostat, cleaned propane system, adjusted igniter. The heater had been neglected. As stated before we run it on electric and propane.

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Glenn what you are describing sounds very much like something I run into from time to time.

In a conventional water heater there is something called a dip tube it allows the cold water to enter at the bottom of the tank and then forces the hot water out the top .I note that on most models of RV heaters there is the same thing at the cold water entrance .

On occasion this tube ether breaks off or in some cases just disintegrates usually due to aggressive water or vibration this causes a "short circuit" of the water and makes the hot water blend with the cold water thus making the hot water not last very long . I suspect this may be the root of your problem . The fix in most cases is to just replace the heater but depending on the age of it and your finances you may choose to purchase the part and give that a try.

What tipped me off is the fact that your navy showers are running out of hot water as typically that would only require 1-2 gallons of water total.

You should be able to get a breakdown on line of the model that you have and get this part fairly cheap .

 

If I may suggest , before doing anything get a thermometer and check the temp of the hot water, it could be that a sensor has gone out and the water is not heating up enough in the first place .

 

 

In regards to your thoughts for the addition of a 20 gallon electric tank I don't see any reason that it would not work and work well but you may want to see if the replacement dip tube will cure the problem first .

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