Ray,IN Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 Didn't know there was such a thing. I pulled element, anode out and used running water. Also a piece of wood and scraped around in there. RV water heater flush wand is a common item in RV stores, WalMart, etc 2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA ." And so, my fellow Americans: ask not what your country can do for you--ask what you can do for your country. John F. Kennedy 20 Jan 1961 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex Bigfoot Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 Actually replacing the 10 with the 12 is more work and more money than the 20 gal electric. Decisions, decisions Get the exploded view of the model of heater that you have . You should be able to see the dip tube and order one . The part (IMHO) should not be over $20.00 they are easy to replace on a SB type . If it solves the problem then you saved some cash if it does not well you will spend $320 in place of $300. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted March 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 I did. Doesn't show a dip tube. Anode rod, element. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dutch_12078 Posted March 5, 2015 Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 RV water heaters bring the cold supply in at the bottom of the tank, pushing the hot out near the top, so no dip tube is needed. Residential water heaters typically have both connections at the top of the tank, and a dip tube is needed to extend the cold inlet to the bottom. Dutch 2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A F-53 Chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS 2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/brake system Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrknrvr Posted March 5, 2015 Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 Has the water heater ever worked correctly since you purchased the Teton. Next is there an outside shower, if so make sure both hot and cold is turned off. Not just the valve at the shower head. The hot water can mix cold together with the hot and make it warm. Then is the bypass valve in its proper position for normal use. Safe Travels, Vern Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted March 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 No outside shower. It gets very hot. Just runs out quickly. And no we have had this issue the whole time. I serviced it, cleaned, fix electrical side and made little difference. We just laid it to it being 2 gallons less that our previous unit. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrknrvr Posted March 6, 2015 Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 Last night we did a test on our 10 sw-10de suburban water heater. With both gas and electric on and at shut off temp the DW decided to take a bath. I did not say anything about limiting water to use. About thirty minutes after she finished I took a bath also. Filled enough water to get about six inches of hot water in the tub with me sitting in it. At that time the hot water from the heater started to cool down. I took my time to scrub down, sat there for a few minutes and soaked my sore hands in the water. After I got out, dried off and then tried the hot water to rinse the tub out it was already starting to produce hot water again. We should have the same tub/shower unit as you do. There are three things that I can think of that could be your problem. One is the winterizing bypass valve is not turned all the way off to separate the cold and hot water. It is located just to the left side of the kitchen sink trap in our Teton. Simple to look at and check. The valve handle should be horizontal. Then what is your thermostat cutout temperature. For a suburban SW model the 140 degree thermostat for gas would be part number 232319, then for electric it would be part number 232317. You can see the part number on the back of the thermostat. Then I have seen where the check valve on the back of the water heater can cause a problem as you describe but not often. That valve must get where it will only flow a portion of what hot water it will normally flow. Not stopping the flow as when the valve stem comes loose and stops the flow of water, just restricts the flow. Safe Travels, Vern Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buzz64 Posted March 30, 2015 Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 we switched to a precision temp RV 500 tankless water heater. I wouldn't use anything else. Also, no water storage issues. It fits in a standard 10 gal unit space. It is expensive, but like I said, I wouldn't use anything else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lou Schneider Posted March 30, 2015 Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Possibly a dumb question, but are you sure the existing HWH is plumbed correctly? Cold going in the top, hot taken out of the bottom would make it run out of hot water very quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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