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AC To DC Power problem


NMHunter51

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Hello everyone,

 

I am new to the forum and fairly new in the rv world. I am an avid outdoorsman who hunts and fish's all of the time. I started my experience with a dutchman pop up and have since upgraded to a 2000 Bigfoot Travel trailer. I am having several problems with my TT that I just cant figure out. The most important is this, when I have my trailer plugged into AC power, it will power all AC equipment just fine but will not charge my battery or power anything that is DC powered. I have tryed both firm power at my home and a campground and also a champion generator. It will not work with anything. Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

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Look at the converter/ charger. It should be putting out around 13 volts. You can put a volt meter on it to check this. If it is not putting out then check it's fuses. They are usually auto blade type fuses on the outside of the converter/charger. Also check your breaker panel to be sure a breaker is not tripped to the converter/charger. If that is all OK check the battery to be sure it is OK & is charged up. These would be the things that I would check & may solve the problem. Good luck, Dave.

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And I bet in your next post about your black tank not dumping is that you have electric valves which are also 12 volt. So your converter is not working. When you drive around your pickup is throwing a lil bit of charge into the battery while driving. Hook a battery charger to your battery when parked until you can fix converter. I'm guessing that your fridge isnt working either being as it also needs 12 volts

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I am new to the forum and fairly new in the rv world. I am an avid outdoorsman who hunts and fish's all of the time.

Welcome to the Escapee forums! WE are happy to have you here and will do all that we are able to assist and support you.

 

On the 12V problem, is this something new which used to work, or did you just buy the trailer and it has been that way since you got it? Have you checked to see if there is a 12V battery isolator that is open to save the battery when in storage? While there several things that could cause this, like a bad fuse or a bad 120V/12V converter, I would first check to see if you have a battery isolator that may be open. The current Big Foot trailer has a battery isolator as standard equipment, so I suspect that may be the issue and it could be either open, or failed.

 

Do you own a meter that you could use to check for any voltages? Do the interior lights work, as they are usually 12V powered? It is difficult to know for sure what your problem may be without more information, but we will do our best!

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I don't know about everyone's 12V shut off switch but can say how mine works. When my 12v switch is used it prevents 12 volt from batteries to all 12 v devices. However when you are on shore power the converter charger will still supply 12v to the devices. I am thinking there is a fuse on the 12 v output from the converter charger that maybe blown and needs replacement or perhaps a bad connection. If that is not it you will have to delve further into things and perhaps the converter is bad I hope not as this is probably the most expensive things to replace in the 12 v system.

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Kirk gave, as usual, the best advice. Get a multi meter and learn how to use it. Now start checking things in a logical fashion.

 

But first lets make sure you understand what the converter does. Normally all things 12V are powered by the battery. As said, when driving down the road the tow vehicle will (slowly) charge the battery. When plugged into AC the converter will supply power to all things 12V and also charge the battery.

 

1 Battery. Unhook the battery completely, and check it's voltage. 12.6v is full, anything less is not. Anything below 11 is not enough. Charge the battery with a separate charger. Unhook it when charged and let it sit for a while..... (24 hours is a good number). It should still read full. If not, get a new one.

 

2 Converter. Check that there is 120V AC going IN to the converter. Assuming you have a healthy battery, check that the voltage at the battery is at least 13v and preferably more when plugged into AC and the converter on.

 

If any of the above does not check out there is a myriad of things that can be wrong, from a simple breaker reset to a faulty multi hundred dollar converter.

 

It's all physics, and no voodoo. Learn the principles, analyze in a methodical fashion. Or, get a case of good beer and find someone who knows what they're doing..... :P I'm in Bethlehem PA. If you're near I'll happily take a look at it.

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It hasn't been a week , Kirk .

We have to remember that this is a very active forum , much unlike a lot of forums on the web .

 

Anyway , When checking the output of a converter , the leads to the battery have to be disconnected .

 

If the leads are left attached , the reading could well be that of the battery if the converter is defective .

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  • 7 months later...

All you are doing very good and knowledgable discussion. Can anybody please help me to understand the all the RV devices mentioned in the post? I do not know anything about the RV devices. Where they have the applications? And also what kind of the problems these are in these devices for which you discussing about?

 

electronic contract manufacturer

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