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Wrknrvr

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Everything posted by Wrknrvr

  1. This the passenger side cab grounds on the engine side of the firewall. Just up from the exhaust pipe and towards outside of the truck. Three of them. This is the other side location of three cab grounds. The are just under the pass through for the air lines. On the outside of firewall. Yet hey are there just hard to see. They caused an very intermittent miss on our Cummins about 5 years ago. Hope this helps,. Vern
  2. More thoughts, on red top Cummins N14 But some may apply to your situation. 1. throttle position sensor is on back side of throttle pedal or gas pedal. 2 I would also install Baldwin fuel filters on unit . Mine has one on engine and one on the passenger side frame in front of the steer tire. NAPA filters cause me headaches for several years. 3 there are 3 small ground wires on each side of firewall on a Volvo in the engine compartment. Yep cause me a headache back a few years 4 if your engine has a fuel seliniod you may want to replace it. Hope this headache medicine will work. Vern
  3. Ain't that a great feeling. What the. Is happening. The throttle potentiometer is a likely culprit. Now I have had a bad connection on a positive battery terminal about 100 miles after cleaning the battery post. Was lucky and got off the interstate. Just in time to stop at a Walmart. Original battery nut was not open on top. Dammmm wire was not tight as the nut bottomed out on top of the post. Now that new potentiometer solved my cruise problem and gave much better throttle response. One should change all sensors every five years. just my thought,. Vern
  4. Wrknrvr

    Tinker Week?

    Well that duplicate was suppose to be a 1920's White truck. my mistake,. Vern
  5. Wrknrvr

    Tinker Week?

    Could we tinker with these if I bring them. just that I am in Montana. That's a long tide. or maybe during grandma White along Vern
  6. I have wanted to thank you for making photo posting easy for us that have problems accomplishing it. Vern
  7. Storage area I built the bed after much thought on what I wanted to do. this should give a good idea as to the storage I have and construction. The center support is with two 10" channel irons straight up and made into a storage cabinet. Just some thoughts,. Vern
  8. This is a rear view of our bed. You can see a side view in the avatar. I would think about setting your razor to the side. Then the bikes to the other side. Then have full area under the ramp for storage. The center upright is what I hook the jeep to to pull it up. Just a thought,. Vern
  9. There is a 1/4" screw on the burner tube. On the right side where the burner assembly Is attached for grounding loosen and tighten that screw twice. Test operation. Safe Travels,. Vern
  10. Out for a ride yesterday and spotted this truck sitting in Montana. it has been sitting there for awhile as no fresh tracks from driving it to where it is sitting. And it has pine needles on the back of the bed. Just curious ,. Vern
  11. First all what engine do you have. Several years ago my N14 was sorta getting warm on long hard pulls. Then I had a warning light come on. I think as it was maybe 5 years ago. Pull over and let it cool down. We were going up a steep grade going to Vernal Utah from Price Utah. So after it idled and cooled down we continued on to Vernal. Next morning started truck and only 10 lbs air pressure . Changed air governor as it was a quick fix. It fixed the air problem. And now the fan was operating better, as in coming on at a slightly lower temperature and doing its thing. So about three years ago we were stuck in Montana till bad weather hit. So the fan quit turning off about 400 miles from Arizona. No time to check it as tired of bad weather and DW was recovering from rotator cuff surgery. So it was get to winter spot fast. The fan switch was bad and stuck on. Replaced switch and fan now operating as it should. Then last fall the engine started to get above normal temps faster and cool down slower. So I had started to read on the net about the N14 in our truck and it has two thermostats. Now there was a problem on what gasket this N14 needed for the thermostat housing. So I ordered another thermostat and the gasket after talking to a dealer in Utah. Got the second thermostat and gasket. Went out to look at situation . Ok called dealer with engine serial number. That's the gasket he said. So I said send me a gasket stretcher. He said what. So I gave him the serial number again and he said he would call Cummins. Now he was a Cummins dealer. Cummins solution is there is no gasket. If you have a Cummins N14 it may not use a gasket if you have two thermostats. The thermostats have a rubber seal that goes over the edge of the thermostat. That is what seals it. On another note the water pump tube gets o'rings . They sent me square rings, possibly for a single thermostat housing. So we just traveled around Arizona, Utah, Wyoming and Montana in the last month and I sorta push it at times and now it works as it should. So if you have a Cummins N14 there could be several different possible problems or a combination of them. Safe Travels,. Vern
  12. If you are going to try and work on this situation you need to prepare for collecting the fluid. First would be to put down some heavy plastic to protect the ground from getting the oil on it. Then have several containers to collect the oil. Then poke a small hole in the belly material at the lowest point. Now do not poke your tool into any tank, wire or anything to create a nother problem. So once you make a hole for the oil to flow it may take some time for it to drain most of it out. If you do not do this it may flow uncontrolled on to the ground or onto you. Yes I have had bad water do that to me so be prepared. Sealing that hole is easy when done. A call to manufacturer may help on the fix. Or a local hydraulic shop may be the way to go. But you need to see what is wrong first. Safe Traveis. Vern
  13. I used auto body filler to attach a chain to make a locking gas cap. just a thought,. Vern
  14. I use this in my Rv repair business. https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwid56bwoq3gAhWNwmQKHXS0AkIYABAIGgJwag&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAASE-RofQExxp4-kxFkEpLt6zeaetQ&sig=AOD64_1h97Cd2h9CeX36279Q-mm2MT48Qw&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjo6qHwoq3gAhXAHTQIHb_9Cb8Qwg96BAgIEBM&adurl= I normally tell them about it or if I have some on the service vehicle, I give it to them . Just fill the bowl with water, pour a tablespoon or less in and let site. I have let ours get really bad for a test. It took 12 applications, but never taken it apart in 7 years. If you scrape it do not call me to fix it. Vern
  15. I will suggest to put something like cardboard under the exhaust area under the coach. Put.it on the ground and make sure it cannot move up against the exhaust pipe. Then fill the system and operate the unit. If anything is leaking from the unit itself it should come out of the drain pan around the exhaust pipe or the intake air screen area. It maybe leaking from the rear of the unit where the hot water exits the unit. I had one last summer that was doing that. just a thought ,. Vern
  16. On the unit that I was working was apparently a profit rig. Never did find that fuse. Now what was the real problem was the sense wiring for the alternator had a bad connection. That connection was over in the passenger side of the engine compartment. I do not remember exactly where. It was in a box that had relays inside. But when talking to the tech person at the rebuild facility recognized that I was working on a motor home. He was the clue where to look for the end of the sense wire. And no it was not to be at the batteries. Just a thought, Vern
  17. Now this little trick may or may not help. There is a little 1/4" drive screw holding the ignight assembly to the tank. It is on top. Loosen that and tighten it. Maybe three times. Now another little trick for that style water heater is to make sure the igniter wire is not touching the outside door when the door is closed. You can look at the door on the inside and possibly see a trace where the wire is leaving a mark. just a thought,. Vern Dino board would be better also
  18. Customer has a build sheet for said Rv. It calls for a 500 amp fuse. Engine alternator was producing 17 plus volts. Killed the chassis batteries. I think. So I removed the alternator and ordered a rebuilt unit. Got my tone generator out to follow the battery cable to the inverter. My batteries in the tone generator were dead. Tomorrow is another day. Buuut still no sign on a fuse. Vern
  19. I am working on a 2003 Monaco Dynasty Motorhome . I cannot locate the fuse between the inverter and the battery bank. Both me and my customer would appreciate any advice where it maybe located. There should be a large fuse, say 300 amps or more in line from the inverter and battery bank. I have called several tech phone numbers that I have. Just for general info on Monaco and related coaches, Rev RV no longer helps with older coaches. Thanks in advance,. Vern
  20. First thing I would do is to unplug the unit from 110 vac. Make sure the fridge is turned off. Then pull both fuses and polish the ends where they make contact in the board . Check for dull finish on the fuse holders. If dullness is there polish the contact area. Next if you at the wire ends on the right of the picture that attach to the board. The white cover will open up so you can test the power to those wires. Use a little hook to open them up for acces to test power. Now plug the unit in and operate it on 110 vac. Test to see if 110 vac is going to the heating element. And test all testable spots for 110 vac to the heating element. Then test amperage to the element. Now use two weeks ago I had a customer call and his fridge would only operate on gas. Another mobile RV tech said the contro board inside was bad. I check real quick for 110 vac as I am telling you. I had another board for the control inside the fridge. Installed it and still no amperage to the heating elements. Hooked the elements directly to 110 vac and the elements worked. Installed old control board inside. Did fuse test polish and replace. Finally took a pair of pliers and twisted the plug ends that plugged into the 110 vac. Installed plug back into outlet. Fridge is still operating on 110 vac today. Just saying if you have the system operating on 110 vac and have the fridge on auto you can unplug the 110 vac plug and it should switch to gas automatically. That is if the unit is calling for cooling operation. Safe Travels, Vern
  21. If you had a tone generator you could trace where toes wires go.https://www.amazon.com/Extech-TG20-Wire-Tracer-Generator/dp/B00APD16D2 with the power off you could find where those wires go. Just used one the other day to trace a wire to a jack controller on an orphan rig. Safe Travels,. Vern
  22. Try this, http://www.twinslan.net/~n0nas/manuals/onan/ I hope this helps. Some times my iPad mini just takes me to the correct site. My 1970 Miller welder generator that has a on an gas engine is even in the documents. Safe Travels. Vern
  23. I finally remembered the other name. Flight systems, they doe repair boards and make some aftermarket Oman boards. Did you take a look at the Twinslan site . Vern
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