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Found 7 results

  1. Anyone know how to troubleshoot an iN·command system? I have replaced the gateways, BCM and control panel. This is a new rig. All under warranty but they can’t fix it. The air gets a few degrees from set temp then turns off and won’t come back on with resetting it.
  2. Good morning! We picked up our class A on Monday. It was jumped to start as it had been sitting in storage with battery installed since April (thanks to quarantine). Drove it home 15 miles with no issues. We are in upstate NY. Once home, turned it off for 5 minutes. Went to start up again to lower levels and got nothing. Absolutely nothing. It was as of no battery was even installed. Tried battery boost from house and generator. Installed new battery this morning and still nothing. Engaging the key does nothing but show the oil pressure needle drop a little. Like I said it’s as if there is no battery. Starter was replaced last year as were several fuses and breaker switches. Something must be disconnected or faulty. My husband wiggled the cables and could get the dash to light up but still wouldn’t turn over. The red positive cable on the first battery on the left going to the middle battery is the one he moved. This will be our 3rd summer with our 2002 Itasca Suncruiser. Seems we keep patching it up every year lol. If you have some advice to offer I’d really appreciate your help in pointing us in the right direction. Thanks in advance!
  3. Hi there, I'm a total newbie and we've planned to buy a light camper trailer (around 1500 lbs). I have a 2017 MAZDA CX-9 and the class 3 hitch is already installed. I would like to get some help from somebody knowing the Toronto GTA and well experienced on the towing topic. I need to find a place to get a 7 way wiring installation and advices about the good and bad things to buy and to do. Is somebody on that forum willing to help me in that matter ? Thanks, Vince.
  4. I am looking for the 110 v. and 12 v. wiring diagram for my friends Patriot. They have several outlets that don't work. Any help with this whould be very helpful. Thank you
  5. I just bought a 2001 Komfort 24fs fifth wheel, I am fairly handy, I had to put in a new floor in the slide out, I want to add solar, I found a red and wht. 10ga wire "cut ends" in a loom by itself next to the battery compartment in the basement, I also found 2 of the same "4 wires" under the sink just wires in a loom and cut ends, they do not go to the 12v system or ground, they do not go to each other unless I am missing a cut off switch somewhere, my question is did Komfort wire for future inverter / solar? if so where do they go? any help is appreciated. PS, I did check continuity for all wires mentioned to each other and ground and for voltage.
  6. This is on my 1992 Damon diesel pusher motorhome. Taillights, front parking lights and all clearance lights stopped working. I pulled the 20-amp fuse from the slot marked "taillights" and it tests good. Voltage test of the empty fuse slot shows exactly the same 12v on both sides of the fuse slot. This does not seem like something that should happen. Unplugged the multiple connector from the combination headlight/parking/instrument-dimmer switch. For those of you young folks who have never driven an older American car, this switch presents to the user as a k-n-o-b. When the k-n-o-b is in, nothing should be on. When the k-n-o-b is halfway out, the parking lights (amber front lights, red rear taillights and all the side lights and front and rear clearance lights) should be on and turning the k-n-o-b sets the brightness of the instruments on the dashboard. When the k-n-o-b is fully out, all of the aforementioned should continue to work and the headlights should work. When I unplugged the multiple connector from the combination headlight/parking/instrument-dimmer switch, the fuse slot appeared normal, with voltage on one side (the same as other circuits I checked on the same fuse block) and no voltage on the other side (the same as other circuits I checked on the same fuse block). I bought a new switch (it's a Ford part) and tested again. Same results except that there was a slight loss in voltage between the two sides of the fuse slot. This test is repeatable. I got out my ohm meter and analyzed both the new and old switches. They match well. Here is what I found out about each connection: A. The only one that is hot 12v on the harness. Has an orange wire. D1. Has a grey wire. No switch position connects it to any other. D1. Has a black wire. No switch position connects it to any other. P. Moot because it has no wire or connector on the harness side. Switch is configured to make this one hot only in the Park position. In ancient times, cars were wired so the front parking lights went off when the headlights were on. This would do that. H. Has red wire with orange stripe. Switch is configured to make it hot only in the Headlight position. B. Has red wire. Switch is configured to have this hot at all times. It seems to have a direct connection to A. regardless of switch position. Not sure what the purpose of that is. R. This is configured to be connected to A. in both the Park and the Headlight positions. It is also visually connected to the instrument-dimmer rheostat. The harness connector has a brown wire. This brown wire has been cut off short and connected with a wire nut to two yellow wires which disappear separately up into the dashboard and one blue wire which disappears into a large roll of overlong wires the size of a tennis ball, bound together with a cable tie. What could possibly go wrong? I. This is the other side of the rheostat. Accordingly, it tests with A in the Park and the Headlight positions. It tests with A. through k-n-o-b rotation from open to 3 ohms and gradually drops to zero ohms. Obviously, the next step is to disconnect the three non-stock wires from that bundle and test the fuse slot, then test it with each wire hooked up solo, I just know I am going to have to open up the tennis ball. I can hardly wait. Of course I had to type k-n-o-b because some forum software rejects a plain knob.
  7. The wiring did not go well. I thought I would have my truck all ready to go this weekend after I spoke with a friend of a friend. I pulled up in the Volvo and the look alone on his face was not good. I sent the Jackalopee instructions to the person who was going to do it and they said they understood very well what to do. When we tried to find where to insert all of the stuff for the direclink break control the guy could not find them. So I got in my truck and came home. I got up at 6:00 a.m. on the weekend for no gain. There was a lot of frustration there. I am not a mechanic. The Semi is a new animal to me. I am sure many of you look at it and say hey this process is easy just plug and play but I could not find the plugs. It is probably like a snake, "it would have bit me" but I just did not see it, and the masses of wires and harnesses under the dash did not help me any. So driving it down to Flagstaff Arizona this weekend won't happen. I will be pulling my trailer using the Tundra 1/2 ton. Well they did look at my C.B. and it is working fine now. I called and texted Flyer already. He got to hear me in my state of p!$$ed 0** ! Well wish me luck I am doing a 10K marathon that involves biking and jogging with an event or obstacle between each change of riding or jogging. Later Vegas Teacher - Cory Ossana
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