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Showing results for tags 'wiring'.
Found 9 results
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Good morning! We picked up our class A on Monday. It was jumped to start as it had been sitting in storage with battery installed since April (thanks to quarantine). Drove it home 15 miles with no issues. We are in upstate NY. Once home, turned it off for 5 minutes. Went to start up again to lower levels and got nothing. Absolutely nothing. It was as of no battery was even installed. Tried battery boost from house and generator. Installed new battery this morning and still nothing. Engaging the key does nothing but show the oil pressure needle drop a little. Like I said it’s as if there is no battery. Starter was replaced last year as were several fuses and breaker switches. Something must be disconnected or faulty. My husband wiggled the cables and could get the dash to light up but still wouldn’t turn over. The red positive cable on the first battery on the left going to the middle battery is the one he moved. This will be our 3rd summer with our 2002 Itasca Suncruiser. Seems we keep patching it up every year lol. If you have some advice to offer I’d really appreciate your help in pointing us in the right direction. Thanks in advance!
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Hi there, I'm a total newbie and we've planned to buy a light camper trailer (around 1500 lbs). I have a 2017 MAZDA CX-9 and the class 3 hitch is already installed. I would like to get some help from somebody knowing the Toronto GTA and well experienced on the towing topic. I need to find a place to get a 7 way wiring installation and advices about the good and bad things to buy and to do. Is somebody on that forum willing to help me in that matter ? Thanks, Vince. -
I am looking for the 110 v. and 12 v. wiring diagram for my friends Patriot. They have several outlets that don't work. Any help with this whould be very helpful. Thank you
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I just bought a 2001 Komfort 24fs fifth wheel, I am fairly handy, I had to put in a new floor in the slide out, I want to add solar, I found a red and wht. 10ga wire "cut ends" in a loom by itself next to the battery compartment in the basement, I also found 2 of the same "4 wires" under the sink just wires in a loom and cut ends, they do not go to the 12v system or ground, they do not go to each other unless I am missing a cut off switch somewhere, my question is did Komfort wire for future inverter / solar? if so where do they go? any help is appreciated. PS, I did check continuity for all wires mentioned to each other and ground and for voltage.
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This is on my 1992 Damon diesel pusher motorhome. Taillights, front parking lights and all clearance lights stopped working. I pulled the 20-amp fuse from the slot marked "taillights" and it tests good. Voltage test of the empty fuse slot shows exactly the same 12v on both sides of the fuse slot. This does not seem like something that should happen. Unplugged the multiple connector from the combination headlight/parking/instrument-dimmer switch. For those of you young folks who have never driven an older American car, this switch presents to the user as a k-n-o-b. When the k-n-o-b is in, nothing should be on. When the k-n-o-b is halfway out, the parking lights (amber front lights, red rear taillights and all the side lights and front and rear clearance lights) should be on and turning the k-n-o-b sets the brightness of the instruments on the dashboard. When the k-n-o-b is fully out, all of the aforementioned should continue to work and the headlights should work. When I unplugged the multiple connector from the combination headlight/parking/instrument-dimmer switch, the fuse slot appeared normal, with voltage on one side (the same as other circuits I checked on the same fuse block) and no voltage on the other side (the same as other circuits I checked on the same fuse block). I bought a new switch (it's a Ford part) and tested again. Same results except that there was a slight loss in voltage between the two sides of the fuse slot. This test is repeatable. I got out my ohm meter and analyzed both the new and old switches. They match well. Here is what I found out about each connection: A. The only one that is hot 12v on the harness. Has an orange wire. D1. Has a grey wire. No switch position connects it to any other. D1. Has a black wire. No switch position connects it to any other. P. Moot because it has no wire or connector on the harness side. Switch is configured to make this one hot only in the Park position. In ancient times, cars were wired so the front parking lights went off when the headlights were on. This would do that. H. Has red wire with orange stripe. Switch is configured to make it hot only in the Headlight position. B. Has red wire. Switch is configured to have this hot at all times. It seems to have a direct connection to A. regardless of switch position. Not sure what the purpose of that is. R. This is configured to be connected to A. in both the Park and the Headlight positions. It is also visually connected to the instrument-dimmer rheostat. The harness connector has a brown wire. This brown wire has been cut off short and connected with a wire nut to two yellow wires which disappear separately up into the dashboard and one blue wire which disappears into a large roll of overlong wires the size of a tennis ball, bound together with a cable tie. What could possibly go wrong? I. This is the other side of the rheostat. Accordingly, it tests with A in the Park and the Headlight positions. It tests with A. through k-n-o-b rotation from open to 3 ohms and gradually drops to zero ohms. Obviously, the next step is to disconnect the three non-stock wires from that bundle and test the fuse slot, then test it with each wire hooked up solo, I just know I am going to have to open up the tennis ball. I can hardly wait. Of course I had to type k-n-o-b because some forum software rejects a plain knob.
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The wiring did not go well. I thought I would have my truck all ready to go this weekend after I spoke with a friend of a friend. I pulled up in the Volvo and the look alone on his face was not good. I sent the Jackalopee instructions to the person who was going to do it and they said they understood very well what to do. When we tried to find where to insert all of the stuff for the direclink break control the guy could not find them. So I got in my truck and came home. I got up at 6:00 a.m. on the weekend for no gain. There was a lot of frustration there. I am not a mechanic. The Semi is a new animal to me. I am sure many of you look at it and say hey this process is easy just plug and play but I could not find the plugs. It is probably like a snake, "it would have bit me" but I just did not see it, and the masses of wires and harnesses under the dash did not help me any. So driving it down to Flagstaff Arizona this weekend won't happen. I will be pulling my trailer using the Tundra 1/2 ton. Well they did look at my C.B. and it is working fine now. I called and texted Flyer already. He got to hear me in my state of p!$$ed 0** ! Well wish me luck I am doing a 10K marathon that involves biking and jogging with an event or obstacle between each change of riding or jogging. Later Vegas Teacher - Cory Ossana
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Greetings, I have a 2006 Winnebago E450 Outlook 26A. Behind the emergency brake against the wall are some wires that have been terminated with no connection. I tried looking in the wiring diagram, but I cannot seem to find these. White/Red Grey/Red Dark Blue or purple Orange connected to yellow White/Green White/Light Blue Any information or guidance would be greatly appreciated.
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Help! I replaced my main Dometic air conditioner. No problems at all, works great. It had a 7-wire thermostat. I replaced it with a Dometic 3-wire thermostat. Married up the wires, all simple enough, and as I said works great. BUT. My Atwood furnace also worked through the thermostat. After wiring up the a/c and new thermostat, which was all labeled and a no-brainer, I had 2 white wires and 2 orange wires left over. These are heavy wires, not thermostat wires. I have 2 terminals on the control box that say “furnace.” Where do I go from here?
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I have a 2008 Volvo 780. I am close to wiring my GPS and camera system. The computer (for the GPS system) and the DVR (for the camera system) are located in the area above the refrigerator, behind the driver. The computer is a full size desk top computer, with SDD, DVD player and a 12vdc power supply. The DVR is a security system recorder (with 16 camera inputs and two audio inputs) and is powered by 12vdc. I have built two custom shelves, in the compartment, above the refrigerator, to hold the two units. A 13 inch monitor is located on a custom built stand, located behind the dash (just to the right of the radio). The monitor can be swung over to the passenger, just in case the DW wants to assist in navigation chores. If we can get a cell signal, the DW will be able to surf the net and do her Facebook thing. The monitor is USB powered, with HDMI signal input and seems to do quite well in bright sunlight. There will be a control panel above the driver's head. The system will be using a wireless mouse and keyboard. The GPS puck was the one (actually, the next generation) recommended by Mark Bruse [spelling]. He and I spoke at the 2014 HDT Rally about his onboard computer system. The GPS puck works great. I was able to pick up satellite signals from inside my house and inside the Volvo. I need to run wiring conduit from the following areas: 1. From the computer/DVR shelf area to under the truck. The conduit will be used to bring 12vdc (from the batteries) to the computer, cameras and DVR. And, will be used for camera cable feeds. 2. From the computer/DVR shelf area to the compartment above the driver's head. The conduit will be used to run power, for each of the cameras (I will be able to turn each of the cameras on and off from the overhead control panel). I will mount a switch box in the overhead compartment that will allow me to switch the monitor from the computer to the DVR. The USB powered speakers will be located in this area. So, I will need to run the speaker wire through the conduit. 3. From the overhead compartment to the monitor. This will be used to bring power and signal to the 13" monitor. 4. From the computer/DVR shelf to the area above the work station table. This will be used to supply power and signal to a monitor mounted in a "flip down" stand. Passengers can go back to the work station and watch movies and/or surf the net. The upper bunk is alway in the down position. The latching mechanism is broken and is not worth the hassle to repair. Any ideas, pictures of conduit runs or, other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Obviously, this will involve cutting holes into the HDT, which is always cause for concern. Thanks. Jim PS: For those of you wondering why in heck is this guy going through so much trouble just to install GPS and a camera system? The short answer is because it is fun The advantage to this system are as follows: GPS software easily upgradable. And/or several programs can be used. 16 camera inputs and two audio inputs. This allows for a video log of trips. Video log (with sound) of accidents for the insurance company (or plaintiff lawyers who would like to sue me). With 16 cameras, I can look anywhere around the truck and trailer. Easy to upgrade the monitor, as technology improves. Easy access to the internet, if I have cell service. Easy to upgrade the GPS puck as technology improves. Passenger can watch movies and/or surf the net at the work station. Easy to upgrade the computer, as technology improves. This computer was custom built, by a computer techie and is state of the art. Easy to upgrade the DVR as technology improves. As I get smarter ( ), I may look into having the computer replace the DVR.
