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    NE Washington
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    Auto Racing, Motorcycling, Concerts

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INWsters's Achievements


Newbie (1/14)

  1. Continuing to have problems, replaced the headlight switch, ignition switch, checked cab grounds. Open the cluster and inspected for obviously cold solder joints didn't see any. Still generally wont crank over, random behavior of dash during boot up, now speedo has stuck. When I had the cluster out and replaced burned out bulbs, found that battery warning light was missing - put one in and its stuck on. Appears a prior owner got tired of looking at, so rather than fix it, took out the bulb - see no evil I suppose. Has new alt, guage says plus or minus 14v, batteries not going dead so do t think I really have a charging problem. Cluster has obviously been out, tamper seals are broken, other parts of dash missing screws, etc so I think someone has chased and failed to resolve this b4. If I take it to Volvo, I'm sure I'll get told they wont do anything unless they Replace the cluster which they want to $2000 plus 3 hours of labor to do. I've had it in-and-out in 20 minutes - 2 screws 5 connectors and 2 airlines. They say new - will have to be programmed and that's why it takes so long, Seems BS. So considering a used cluster which is $450-$650. However I don't know if it really does have to be programmed or if you can take a generation one cluster and install it in the dash and it will work just fine except that the odometer will show its mileage. Have a friend that's an independent mechanic but hes not equipped to do Volvo computers. Have also seeing the rebuild services that will put new motors in the gages at cetera but they don't look like they're specific enough to be able to check the function and circuitry of the cluster, So I'm not sure that would be productive. Any advice on a path forward would be appreciated.
  2. Thanks so much, I'll be locating and cleaning them.
  3. Having intermittent electrical problems with the dash, truck sometimes wont engage starter, Christmas tree of lights on the dash, sometimes buzzer sounds/sometimes not during boot up. Replaced starter that seized, alternator that had bad + connection that arced and failed. Have new headlight switch and ignition switch to put in. It's obvious that someone b4 me has had the instrument cluster out and opened up. Cannot reproduce the problem w any sequence of actions or wiggling harness behind instrument cluster. Going to replace the above switches and would like to find, check and clean ground locations under the dash and hood. Any help with where they are, particularly troublesome ones very appreciated. Thanks for any replies and help.
  4. Getting started on the things the new to us 2000 VNL needs for this upcoming year as the snow is finally leaving. I need to replace the outer LH front bumper bracket, the one that holds the extension on. Called local dealer and was quoted $150, 2-3x what I see online for the same part for 2004 up trucks. However, I am puzzled about where or how to find part numbers. All of the online sources seem to reference parts to the Volvo part number rather than to a year/model, and I cant find a way to look up the part number to search online for. Any suggestion or links for parts lookup would be appreciated. Meanwhile. a source for the bracket I need for this project would be helpful as well. Thank you!
  5. Thanks for the info, I'll check to see if I can source the caps. Good call on checking each hole Argo.
  6. Woohoo! Brought our new to us, first time in the deep end (dark side) 2000 Volvo 610 home today. Bought it needing some work, took it straight to the truck shop, had it taken care of and now it's almost ready to go. Needs some serious elbow grease inside and out as it was a rodeo rig - still has hay, arena dirt and bovine exhaust, etc. attached. It has a C7 Air Ride Hitch for gooseneck that doesn't appear to be in production any longer so no info. Toyhauler has a 5th Airborne pin box, so researching whether to go ET hitch, TS hitch or convert trailer pin box to gooseneck and use existing air hitch. I keep thinking "Holy Crap! We bought a semi!" Wife is totally on board though, she's been more skeptical of our F350's ability to pull - and stop - it, than I have been. Took the fiver and F350 out this weekend and was totally reminded why we bought the HDT. It's gonna be the cats pajamas next year. Immediate concern however, is the row of empty bolt holes I found around the perimeter of the mid rise fairing on the truck tonight. They appear to be mounting holes for a high rise fairing that would attach to the mid rise. They have no bolts in them, so my question is - are these a water intrusion problem or blind holes? If I need to seal them, are bolts, washers and some rtv silicone sufficient to prevent water getting in on top of the headliner? If not, how to best seal them up and have a cosmetically acceptable result? Thanks again for all advice and help, looking forward to seeing fellow HDTer's on the road.
  7. UPDATE - Gold Stars to all of you who said clutch brake and clutch. Although the symptoms pointed to it, I was skeptical because first shop said they had checked it when I asked. My tech replaced the clutch brake yesterday as it was down to bare metal - no lining at all. He doesnt think the clutch had ever been adjusted, had to use some heavy persuasion to break the adjuster ring loose of crud and move it 4 tabs. Took it for a 20 mile test drive and all worked perfectly - no misses going into gear, autoshifting or manual shifting. Problem with gear indicator display turned out to be independent of tranny function, display itself has short in it, wiring to it checks out fine so getting it replaced. What a relief! Moving on to getting the truck serviced and some smaller items taken care of. We are super excited to be joining the HDT ranks. Will be using it to pull our toyhauler with vintage supermodified circle track car around the northwest. Thanks again to all who post here, truly an invaluable resource - especially for newbies. Cheers, Robert
  8. did pick up the truck this weekend and took it to my local mechanic as I had planned. Turned out that I did have problems getting into gear every time I had to stop and shut the truck off, on top of that it would not engage/energize the starter and I had to turn the key 15-20 times to get it to engage. My mechanic told me that is often a symptom of electronic problems with the transmission - i.e. neutral safety switch not recognizing the transmission in neutral and preventing engaging the starter. All of the things the previous owner told me would get the truck to go into gear were basically just coincidences, nothing i could come up with consistently resolved the problem. Additionally, i realized that the hold and manual gear change buttons would not work either. There is no grinding, apparent servo noise or anything else when it is not shifting into gear, once engaged though the transmission operates and shifts smoothly I will update as truck is fixed for everyone's future reference.
  9. Thanks for all the replies tips and advice on things to check if I run into problems . I had thought clutch and clutch brake as well but the shop it's at says they've checked it . Of course my Tech will be doing a thorough diagnostic once I get it to him .
  10. Thanks for all of the info and experience you have all posted on this forum, I've learned nearly everything I know about HDT Rv haulers from here. I'm up to page 95 of the 117 archived here. I have just purchased a 2000 Volvo that has a Cummins ISM mated to a Gen 1 Autoshift thats having problems. It shifts fine and engages into gear when its cold, after 10 minutes or so if it is taken out of gear it will not engage again. It didn't do it on my brief test drive, but the seller and his mechanic both describe the same problem. Seller says if truck is on slight incline and can roll just a little bit it will drop into gear, or if shifted into gear immediately after restarting the truck it will engage. My plan is to fuel the truck a few blocks away from the shop and drive it the 4hrs home without taking it out of gear. Any suggestions about what to do if i do get stuck unable to get the truck in gear on the way would be helpful. As the man said, no plan survives first contact with the enemy, lol. The sellers shop 4 hrs away where the truck is told me they contacted Eaton who told them Gen 1 was no longer supported and best course of action was to replace it with a manual. Eaton suggestion to try and fix the Autoshift was to put a harness and XY into it for about a 70% chance of resolving it. Their diagnostic computer wouldn't even recognize the transmission. He has a transmission shop in his area that said they could convert the trans to manual internally with sliders, bearings, etc. for about $300 in parts plus labor. Of course would still need a tower/shifter for the manual. I purchased it at a price reflecting a serious transmission problem, and have a friend who's been a tech at a local Peterbilt dealership for 30 years who will be fixing it. He's told me he has done 12-15 replacements of Gen1 Autoshifts with used manual transmissions due to the ongoing problems with the electronics on them. He feels throwing parts at the Gen 1 would not be a permanent fix as something else, or the same thing, is likely to break again later. He has been very clear that you cannot simply remove the harness, sensors and XY shifter and replace them with a manual tower and shifter, internal parts and clearances are different although the case and design are the same. Usually they have been OTR trucks purchased cheaply and being converted for use as vocational trucks of some sort. My tech says the other option is to replace all of the harness, TCM, XY shifter, etc. with Gen 3 parts thereby upgrading it to a Gen 3 and reprogram the ECM on the engine to be compatible with it. He feels the Gen 3 has proven to be a solid reliable system. Both options appear to be similar in cost, prob $4-6k. I have tried to read everything I can find here and on Google searches about Gen 1 Autoshifts (including that according to Eaton, they have all been field upgraded to at least Gen 1.5) and their problems, although hearing that Eaton was no longer supporting them was a surprise. Any knowledgeable advice regarding the path forward would be very appreciated. Thanks in advance for your time and consideration. Robert
  11. Been reading tons of posts on this forum as well as all the other online info i can find about RV conversion/toter/haulers for 5th wheels. Amazing amount of experience and knowledge contributed here. New to RV's, have a F350 Dually gasser pulling a 37' toyhauler around the northwest - i.e. over Cascade and Rocky Mountain passes. First trip over the continental divide, 3500# under my expected usual weight of 15500# (trailer grosses 17k) convinced me that truck doesnt have the power or more importantly, the brakes for towing a trailer that heavy in my part of the country. I'm a MDT delivery truck driver during the week so big doesnt bother me, sooooo, thinking I am looking for an HDT hauler. Already have one truck not big enough for the job, dont want to make that mistake on an HDT. Gonna be looking for an older unit, preferably with a deck to fit ATV or Razer, to use primarily for 600-1000 mile weekends 10-12 times per year plus a couple of longer trips. I have a good friend who has a coach type conversion pulling an enclosed trailer and another who's a HDT mechanic, primarily on log trucks so I have some good resources locally. However, I'm hoping some folks here can point me in the right direction in determining what my requirements are. How can I figure out what combination of horsepower, torque, tire size, rear end ratio, transmission choice/speeds, HDT weight will pull 20k at the 70-75mph. I did find the advice of a minimum 425hp/1450 torque, but that looked like for a 30k trailer plus a smart car. I'm ok with some drop on long grades, but based on my current truck if its close to maxxed out pulling flat ground at 65mph you have dang little left for hills. 6 plus percenters have me down to 30mph. Not an experience I want to repeat. Any info from WA state residents about licensing and registration would be greatly appreciated. I have read the RCW's and see that if its a motorhome with appropriate equipment its not problem at all. But I dont want to duplicate the equipment i have in the 5th wheel if I dont have to. I see an exemption for a truck above 26k gross pulling a personal RV over 10k, but I'm unsure of the restrictions or enforcement hassles that may come with that setup. Thanks for any advice, I'll continue to research and read the forums to learn more. Happy Trails
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