Nwcid

I did ask about that in another post. I know that is a little longer (about 3'), then most, but I think that will be ok. It should still turn at least as good as my dually and I have a little more room on the truck for other items. Right away I would like to add additional fresh and waste tanks. At some point I would likely mount a 10k or 12.5k generator right behind the cab. Are there other things I need to consider?

I know I am never getting amazing milage, if I could get 10 it would be great. Fully loaded I am getting 8.6 with my 1 ton. I know there are a ton of other advantages which is why I am looking into HDT. My 1 ton with 65k is on it's 3rd set of tires, needs front brakes again, and the times I do need to make full days towing it is very tiring.

The seller says he bought it from a company that closed down and has no records, probably a red flag. I looked at the link you sent and they do no do my area. I will look for a local mobile inspector. What is a rough price range I should expect to pay for this service? I am a little concerned as it seems to be about 20% cheaper then comparable trucks that I see online.

I know I have a couple of similar threads floating around but I have more specific questions at this time. Right now I am pulling a 17k, 38' toy hauler. I would like to be able to add a deck to load my UTV crossways like a smart car. I am looking to get the better fuel mileage vs more power as any HDT will be better than my 1 ton. In the future I will be looking at a larger 45' trailer. I found this truck locally and I hope to go look at it next week. It looks like it is fairly high geared so should this get reasonable milage? For this model and year are there specific problems I need to be on the look out for? I know a DOT inspection is not a full mechanical inspection, but would the information from that inspection be worth the fee? 2014 VOLVO VNL 630 Conventional, 418,264 Miles, Volvo D13 Engine, 450 H.P., Engine Brake, Volvo I-Shift AT2612D Transmission, 40,000 Lb. Rear Ends, 2.47 Ratio, Air Ride Suspension, Extended Frame, Hydraulic Power Steering, Air Conditioned, Dual Aluminum Fuel Tanks, Single Chrome Stack, Exterior Visor, Side Fairings, Cab Extenders, Quarter Fenders, AM/FM Radio, Compact Disc Player, Tilt And Telescoping Steering Wheel, Cruise Control, Power Windows, Auxiliary Power Unit, Air Slide 5th, 265 Inch Wheel Base, 22.5 Low Profile Tires, Aluminum Disc Wheels. APU system ComfortPro.

To each their own and whatever works for you. At one point I bought a set of the cheap magnetic balls, for lining up together. I think I used them 2x and they have been riding in the toolbox since. About half the time my wife helps me back, but I am not sure it is any easier than doing it myself. When by myself I just line up with the trailer and back up. Once my hitch is into the bed I stop, get out and look at my hitch position, I then make the minor adjustment I need to be right on and back the rest of the way up.

Been using it in small engines for quite some time now and have been very happy with it. First real use was on an Onan 5500 that was gummed up from sitting. Had a shop clean up the cab (on the road) but still ran a little rough. Ran a heavy dose of Seafoam in it an after a couple of hours ran as smooth as ever. I keep it in any tank of fuel that will sit. I have some small engines that only get used a few times a year after sitting most of the year. They fire up on the 2-3rd pull every time.

When I say 2 different versions, this is what I am talking about with the "not flat" roof. When I say 2 different versions, this is what I am talking about with the "not flat" roof. The RZR is 107", but I plan on cross loading it. I know there has to be a "regulation" for everything but it is only 2.5" per side over width and still well inside the mirror width. With less than 2' of difference in height between the 730 and 780 I don't think the limitations of the 730 are worth that little of a height difference. I will look at that link tomorrow. It looks like I need to do some more research on gearing vs transmission. For gearing I have been seeing anything under 3.xx is best.

I am just beginning my search for an HDT and still trying to learn a lot. Initially I will be continuing to use my 38' Fuzion Toy hauler, but at some point we will be getting a different RV and I am leaning toward a home build out of a semi trailer. I will likely be staying doubled because of this. With the current RV I will likely build a deck for cross loading my RZR. It is also likely that I will add a 10kw or 12.5kw generator to the truck along with additional water/waste tank. Of course we don't buy trucks based on looks, but is is a factor. While I would love to have a VNL 780 I do not know that we need that much sleeper height which has lead me to look at the VNL 730. The 730 seems to come in 2 versions, one with a "flat" roof and one with an "sloped" roof. Can anyone tell me what the height difference is between these 3 versions, or a resource where I can find it? Obviously while hooked up the height does not matter, but if we need to "run to town" I feel like the lower roof would be better. Also for RV use would there be a noticeable difference in fuel milage if I were to get a larger trailer? Second question is about gearing. Is there a noticeable difference in fuel milage between 2.xx and 3.xx gearing? For example I saw one I liked with 2.47 gearing. It would really be nice to get 10mpg average. Also if I was go to go a bigger trailer, even one that would weigh less then 1/2 of a commercially loaded one, would the gearing be a big deal?

My comment had nothing to do with full timing, spending money on things you enjoy, or the cost of RVing/HDT's. Many people scoff at the what I paid for batteries/solar/inverter but it allows us to travel the way we want to. All I said is for the price I would hope they are nice.

Close. You can not take possession of a handgun or NFA items anywhere other than your state of residence. You can purchase it out of state, in person or otherwise, and have it shipped to an FFL in your state for transfer. You can take possession of any long gun in any state, as long as it is legal in your state of residence, and it is done at an FFL. In the above cases "possession" from the standpoint of purchasing. Borrowing or using is legal. https://www.atf.gov/firearms/qa/may-licensee-sell-firearm-nonlicensee-who-resident-another-state https://www.atf.gov/questions-and-answers/qa/how-may-unlicensed-person-receive-firearm-their-state-they-purchased-out https://www.atf.gov/questions-and-answers/qa/may-unlicensed-person-acquire-firearm-under-gca-any-state https://www.atf.gov/firearms/qa/what-constitutes-residency-state Here is all of the links, https://www.atf.gov/qa-category/unlicensed-persons

I think what you will find for most is that in general the MDT's do not have much more pulling power over a LDT. What they do have more of is suspension, braking, drive train and weight. Also from what I have read, the ride is not much different between an LDT and MDT. It also seems that the MDT's have about 2-3x the life expectancy of a LDT. Even used MDT's come with a premium price tag. With HDT you get huge power, huge drive train, huge stopping power, large fuel tanks, air ride suspension/cab/seat, and lots of extra weight capacity. You have a vehicle that is made to easily last 4x that of your LDT and 2x that of an MDT. All of this for often half or less price than a similar MDT.

With prices starting at $65/night I would hope they are nice.

We are in NE WA and have had no problems here. Keep in mind that all NPS stuff is/was closed. We primarily boondock. In June was did Banks Lake for 4 nights and it was empty until July 3 and got over filled so we left and headed for Mattawa. At that location over the 4th there was only one other camp site and it was a long way from us. Then we went to the Blue Mtn outside of La Grand, again no problem finding an opening with no neighbors. Off to Pine, ID. There were a lot more people in that area, but it is a huge recreation area. Even then we were easily able to find a spot distanced from neighbors. This was followed by a Challis, ID we stayed 3 nights in a private campground because that is where our friends were staying. This was on a weekend and it was full, but also has hot springs. We decided to stay the rest of the week but due to temperatures and needing good cell service we found another park in town. They had lots of space with full hooks for $30/day, or about what it would have cost to run the generator for AC. Then we headed down to Arco, ID. Again no problem find a spot. I have spent 3 of the last 4 weeks in OR, and I did have lots of neighbors, but hey that is the life in fire camp.

Not until you have sustained freezing temperatures. Even if it gets to freezing for an hour or two in the middle of the night but warms up in the day you still don't need them. Here is a rough test for you, put a plastic gallon jug of water outside. When it gets cold enough to get ice in it and not easily thaw out during the day, it is time for the tank heaters. Just remember you tanks should be insulated, where the water jug is not so you have a big safety margin.

If algae is a problem, and you have an expensive hose, why not just flush it. You could either treat it with bleach or something similar or even just leave it out in the sun for a day or two and let it dry out good and clean it.

I have no idea what RV you have, but most have a cigarette lighter style plug in them somewhere. If not you can add one, or have one added. I am not sure what unit you have but here is an example for a common unit. It also come with clamps to go direct to the battery, https://www.directhomemedical.com/resmed-airsense-10-cpap-dc-power-cord.html Again your other option is to run on a battery pack. There are many options out there now. Keep in mind you will still need a way to charge it up every day or two. I do not have first hand experience with this type of system, but from my understanding you may or may not be able to run your humidity. For me that would not work. Here are some examples from a basic search, https://www.cpap.com/plp/cpap-battery/ZT0zMDg

You basically have 2 options. The most "efficient" method is to get a 12v converter for your CPAP and run it that way. Likely, the more common method is many of us have inviters. In my case my inverter powers all of my outlets in my RV. I also have a larger battery bank with solar and generator backup for charging the batteries. I probably spend around 90 nights/year in my RV and we mostly boondock.

The only way to find the "value" on unique items is work on your part. What does a similar condition truck cost without the add ons? If you found a bare truck in similar condition, how much would it cost to have the add ons done? What is the cost of the Smart in its current condition? Once you have those 3 figures then you have to add your "value" to it. Are the add ons ones you want, or would you do it differently? Is the cost between those to things worth it to you? How much "value" do you put on having a turnkey set up? Is it in a budget you are willing to spend? For me, that truck would hold little "value", even as a good deal since it is not set up in a way I want.

I also use the Zero-G hoses. They are light, very flexible and durable. They do some in garden and potable versions, https://www.amazon.com/4001-50-Lightweight-Flexible-Durable-Kink-Free/dp/B014M9PEXC/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2N7SEUX9BV40N&dchild=1&keywords=zero+g+potable+water+hose&qid=1601396882&sprefix=zero+g+pot%2Caps%2C262&sr=8-3 I have 3 of them, one 50' which is my primary potable hose. I have a 25' that is my extra potable hose and a 25' that is my general use hose. I also keep the original 25' and 50' white hoses stored away just incase. Since we rarely have full hook ups I have quick connects on all of my hose fittings.

I guess it depends on the gooseneck hitch. I have not climbed in my truck at all with the Reese there is a cable release. I can do all of my hookups standing on the ground at the drivers rear of the truck. You are right, I do not miss crawling in the bed with my old trailer. I am sure i could have made some kind of extension, but I never did.

All of the gooseneck trailers I have had use an oversize opening that funnels the ball in. Sure you have to be close, but not exact. Either way, I have never been able to see them when hooking up. I have never seen my trailer ball since I started puling trailers in my teen years, yet some how I managed to get them attached without a spotter.

The Reese Goosbox is approved, which is why I chose it. It is not a normal 5th wheel "extension", it is a complete replacement. https://www.reeseprod.com/products/pin-boxes/goose-box/uW9rVuV4JAj75t!ZHQnotJoVbxIFMqvl Even without a camera, why would it be any harder then with my current truck? I can not see either my gooseneck ball in the bed, or the rear receiver when hooking up a standard trailer.

Thank you for the input. That makes sense. Again I do not plan on doing major use with the compressor, the majority would be for an air nozzle. I am not planning on filling an 80 gallon tank. Maybe adding a 10-20 gallon tank that would only be filled on an as needed basis and not as part of the brake system. It was more of a question of if I would run an impact gun on an occasional basis. I know they are making some great battery tools now but they are not cheap. I just thought that if the truck would supply enough air for occasional use it would be more cost effective as a 1/2" drive air impact is 1/2 the price of battery.

Sorry for the typo, I will correct it. I agree you need to go by more than just axles. The sticker on the side of the trailer is what the manufacture rated it for and that is what you should go by. That was the very first line in my post. I was just giving examples. In my case on my current trailer, using even numbers, it is rated at 17,000 lbs even though I only have dual 7,000 lb axles. This manufacturer includes 3000 lb of pin weight to get the GVWR. The unit weighs in at just under 13,000 lbs meaning I have 4000 of payload and even at that it is easy to overload.

My current trailer has a gooseneck attachment point on it now. It is the Reese Goosebox and I purchased it because I did not want a 5th wheel in the back of my truck and it has air bags. Is there any reason I can not put an appropriate height ball hitch on a HDT and run a gooseneck. Since I am asking about non 5th wheel attachments. How hard is it to add a traditional ball hitch for hauling my other trailers?