Nwcid

Are there any threads where you show off your build? I have a waste tank solution, but still looking for tool box and fresh water option.

What is the environmental cost of mining the materials, factories for making the batteries and the landfills for disposing of the batteries at the end of their life?

Same way we do at home. Pay them online or via bill pay from your bank. Using bill pay is just like mailing a check, you just fill out the information on your bank website and they send the check for you. I have not even owned a check book for years as I have not had a need. I know this is not for everyone.

I was more worried about overloading if I only had the 12k axle as I am 11,900k unloaded. Once I add 500-1000 lbs behind the cab that will add a lot of weight to the front. I checked the sticker and I do have the 13,2000 lb front. That will help for sure.

I just talked with another shop, the one that is 4 hours away. This is the Volvo dealer, but they are more of a generalized fleet service company. They do the DOT stuff for the company I work for and they have treated us well. They said for a "full" service they charge a flat rate for labor + fluids and on my truck that usually comes out to right about $400. The also do a "general" inspection when servicing. That can either be good or bad depending on the mechanic and how much they get for pushing extra parts/service. I need the computer programed and I was going to take it to them to do that. Once the heavy snow goes away in a month or two, I will likely take it there for my first service. Also I might need an alignment or steering work. It might cost a little more, but I can do it all in one place for the first time.

As I said in the beginning, this truck is staying tandem. If I only have the standard 12k front axle in the truck that may be a problem. Again the truck was 100% stock with full tanks when I weighed it. I do not plan on doing a lot of bobtailing, but enough that I need to make sure things are right. I will check out the links this evening.

Thanks for the replies so far. If I can get the oil changed, fuel and air filters changed, lube and inspection for under $400 then to me that is money well spent. Part of me just wanted to know what I should expect when I call around. I have only called one shop and they charge $98/hr plus materials.

I did not assume I would have to worry about being too light, but it needed to be asked. Yes, my truck is a 2014. I know where the info is, I just have not looked at it yet. I have have a whole list of things to do. I have lots of pics of stuff for the truck, and other things. I dont just keep them on my phone, I have them on a cloud service so I can access them from anywhere.

I understand the concept. I think the nearest one is 4 hours away. There might be one that is only 2 hours away, but I have not checked yet.

I realize I should know the answer to that, but I do not yet since I have not started asking those kind of questions yet. I will check next time I go down to the shop. Also, while I did not ask the question, and I am sure it is unlikely, how light is too light. I keep reading about "unloading" the front axle too much.

Thank you, got it. I will be looking at it.

That would be awesome. Sending PM.

When I picked my tuck up, and with full tanks (275 gallons) here are the weighs I got. Steer 11,900 Drive 8,680. I am keeping my truck tandem and my wheel base is 265" if that matters. I am not sure how much my deck will weigh, but I am guessing around 2,000lbs. This will be a 8' x15' steel frame with aluminum decking. With my current trailer I have a pin weight of about 3,700. I plan on adding a 100-200 gallon fresh water tank (800-1600 lbs), a 60 gallon waste tank (about 500 lbs when full), some sort of "Job box" (500 lbs?) and carrying the SxS (1200 lbs) on the deck. Now that we have all of that out of the way let's talk about theoretical wights. I say that because it is not practical to get it weighed first plus it is not built yet to weigh. My waste tank is mounted right behind the drivers side fuel tank. It will only be filled occasionally and only for short travel periods. I am hoping to have the fresh water tank close to the back of the cab with the job box next followed by the ATV. Obviously the trailer will attach just behind the rear axle. In theory, how much weight should I have on the front axle? If I do not have the trailer attached, with my loading plan would that add too much weight to the front axle? What else do I need to know/consider?

What is the best resource for find out the correct parts for my truck? I seem to have a problem looking for parts in general. Most things I find reference back to the 670 or 780 and I have a 630.

I am not afraid to get "dirty", but I do it out of necessity, not that I enjoy it though. Depending on the project, and what it will cost it makes more sense for me to pay someone else and either work a little more or use that time for things I do enjoy. I will start with filters and the oil change. I will inspect the other things. Being able to spread this over a year, or even two will help as right now I am spending money on having a bed built, wiring for RV, Hitch, and all of those other expenses you know about.

You have interlock which is front to rear and differential lock "side to side". If you are buying a typically over the road truck it would be more common to see interlock than it would be to see differential lock. If you are buying a typical truck made for "off road", log truck, dump truck, etc then it is very common to see both interlock and differential lock. Typically these trucks will be lower geared than OTR trucks. I did a moderate amount of looking for a truck with both, but the OTR trucks made more sense for my use. I do have a truck with interlock, but not differential lock.

I recently picked up a 2014 Volvo 630 with 420,000 miles on it. Now I am going over the unit completely and making it what we went. I am also servicing and checking everything. This truck did not come with any records. Do I just do a full fluid replacement (oil, trans, diff, coolant) or do I have those items tested to decide when I should service them? Are there any other systems that I should service? If I wanted to have the service done at a shop, roughly what should I expect to spend? I know it varies, but looking for a rough idea. Some project it makes sense to let someone else do it depending on price.

Ok, that is why I was confused. The only type of account I had mentioned was a checking account and you said, "It's not an option" I was asking how many people use their main account vs setting up a secondary checking just for this card. It sounds like most set up a separate account to use with this card. Sounds like I will do the same.

What is not an option? It can only pull from my "main" checking account, not a checking account set up just to use with this card? How would they know, and why would they care what checking account I use?

I have been following this. I also did some looking online. I am on the FB group. I went to the website and got to the point where it wanted my banking information. I have seen a lot of people suggest setting up a checking account specifically to tie to this card. How do you manage your card/payment/bank info? I can easily add a free checking account to my current banking.

I will look it up. We spend t a week at Pine, ID and a week at Challis. They were both awesome.

I know I commented in the FB post also. Will you share what site you are going to with the SxS? We did a bit of riding in that area last year and it was a ton of fun.

I have researched the TDS card and it looks like the way to go. With my new truck I can make over 2000 miles on a tanks so that should last a while. There is a semi-local place here that is usually way under everyone else and they have truck pumps. I will likely do most of my fueling there, would be even better if they are part of TDS. My dually has a slip tank so towing I can get about 800 miles. Of course in my rigs a 1/2 tank is an empty tank......

In the past I have typically used normal fuel stations and occasionally truck stops. I have typically avoided truck stops as they seem to have higher prices. Now that I have an HDT, with dual tanks, and 275 gallons total I would like some more info. The few times that I have used truck stops, a variety of brands, I was not able to use my CC or Debit Card at the pump. It said I needed some other kind of card. Do you know what card I might need, and how to get one? I was able to go in and pay with the clerk, but I was trying to be efficient since I am RV and trucks are working. I do recall seeing a thing about some kind of discount card a while back. Is this still a thing? If so is there a link or details?

Yes, to use the king pin to ball adapter, I would be removing the Goosebox and putting the king pin box back on and using the Anderson. This would bring the ball height inline with the commercial hitch height. My plan is to mount a gooseneck ball about 24-36" in from the back of the trailer. I still need to measure the clearance on my trailer and it is stored off site. That will all happen once I get my bed built. Until then I need a solution for pulling that does not require fabrication work that will have to be undone once the bed is installed. With the 2 items pictured I would be able to sell them when I no longer need them and helpfully get 50% of my money back.