Nu Tars

[adept99]

On the way back from the ECR, we had broken an AC belt, and while that was being repaired, the owner of the shop pointed out that the knockoff tires on the front were cupping badly. Commented that that was common for that genre of tire and that the best thing I could do would be to sell them as trailer tires and replace them with a better tire. FYI, he did not offer to sell me the new tires.

 

After a few other reviews from knowledgeable folks, the consensus was, yeah, relatively new tires, but not gonna cut the mustard over the long haul. (how was that for a pun...) Anyway, I had quotes ranging from $600 to a bit under $2000, mounted, spin balanced, taxed, old tires disposed of, etc, etc. Still haven't quite figured out why I have to pay a disposal fee when I'm selling the old tires for re-use as opposed to scrapping them. Must be a government program.

 

I was gonna go with Michelin, because nobody ever got fired for choosing IBM. At the last minute, decided to go with B.F. Goodrich tires. Made by Michelin and a bit over $200 per tire cheaper. 16 ply tires date coded 2015. All things being equal, should be the last set we have to buy, figuring we'll wear out before the tires do.

 

I had the alignment checked. You know, new tires and all, just seemed right. Last time it was done was when we purchased the truck in November of 2013 and we've only put a little over 3500 miles since then. However, that alignment was major. The truck shows signs of having been wrecked at some point, and when put on the dyno for pre-purchase inspection, it would not pull straight. The rear axle was shimmed backwards and it took the better part of the day to correct all of the issues. Frankly, I did not think the alignment could be corrected without moving the rear axle on the frame but the frame folks that did the work persevered and got it fixed up.

 

In the ensuing months, the toe in/out has moved to a position of 1.5" toe out. Obviously that was compounding the cupping problem on the old steer tires. Didn't cause the issue, just helped it along. Fixed the toe out problem.

 

On the rear, the alignment was within spec, but several of the retaining bolts were loose. Tightened those up and rechecked. Still within spec at +1/16th over the length of the wheelbase.

 

Had the work done at a tire distributor that also does recaps and so has access to the secondary market, End result, spent less than half of the high estimate, got the alignment checked and trued up, got purty new tars, and the front end doesn't go bbbbbbbbbboooooooooouuuuuuuuuucccccccceeeeeeeeee in the fender mirrors.

 

What did you do for your truck today??

 

Paul & Paula

 

 

 

 

 

[SuiteSuccess]

Congrats Paul but should have got the Michellins (tongue in cheek). When I replaced my steers bought Toyos. First time I went camping with the big truck, had a knock on the trailer door about 9:00 p.m. Was somewhat concerning but answered the door anyway thinking maybe it was some emergency situation. Turns out it was a "retired" trucker from the '63 Shasta two sites down who proceeded to school me on why nobody should ever have any tires other than Michellins on big trucks and especially not "them Chinese tires". I didn't have the heart to tell him they were Japanese and actually have a manufacturing plant in Georgia. Teaches me to answer the door.

[rickeieio]

I put Sumitomo steers on last summer, just before heading to The Last Frontier (Alaska). They got tested over the rocks. frost heaves and potholes of the road north. I think they were a tick above $600, mounted and balance beads. But, I guess I need to be ready for the China Bombs to let go at any moment.

[sclord2002]

Everbody luvs nu tars. Glad you found what was contributing to the cupping. I have been told that the cupping wear pattern on a tire will continue even if the cause is corrected ?? Doesn't seem like it should but that's what I have been told anyway. Be safe, Charlie

[adept99]

Charlie, that's what several people told me about the tires that were on the truck. I was advised that those tires were very susceptible to cupping to start with, and I already knew that once cupping starts, it has a tendency to continue, regardless of any cure instituted. But I gotta tell ya, between the new front shocks and the new tires and the alignment, ol' truck rides like the batmobile. Now, if I could just get Batgirl to wash the d#$m thing...

 

Paul & Paula

[Jack Mayer]

If you get batgirl to wash it send her over my way afterwards....mine needs a bath and that thing is BIG.

 

Congrats on getting things "right". Make sure you check your kingpins....on older trucks they are often problematic (and newer trucks too). And make sure you keep good grease on those kingpins or you WILL have issues with them. Ask me how I know....

[Imurphy907]

I used to work for the Michelin dealer. We sold Michelins, BFG's, Kumho's, Yokohama and several funky brands of OTR tires.

 

While Michelin XZE2's would be my first pick for a steer tire. I would not hesitate to put RY617 Yokohamas on any of my rigs. They are a good strong tire.

 

In America there is an FET for all tires sold. In some states they mandate a disposal fee. you pay that based on tires sold. not tires taken off.

 

Most casings we bought were in the neighborhood of $75 per tire. For a tire in trade that could still be used for trailer service we may pay up to $125. And we were picky on what casings we would pay for. If they were old but still looked good we would write them up and send them to our cap shop to have them inspect them. Some times they then threw them away.

[rickeieio]

Slight hi-jack, but I'm sure Paul won't mind.

 

I put new tires on the front of my Farmall Super "A". Well, not really new, because they'd been in my brothers garage for some time. China bombs with a date code is 1209. Will I suffer a catastrophic blow-out and go into a death wobble while mowing?

 

Oh, they cost me one cigar for the pair.

[sclord2002]

Rickeieio, as you know, the dreaded mowing death wobble will get you every time........I've taken to mowing without engaging the blades so that when I get thrown off, I won't get chopped up. I'm thinking of installing a '53 Packard front spring under compression to the tractor seat. Upon reaching an angle that would surely preceed a roll over, the spring would release and launch me clear of the impending accident. I have the engineering all worked out but I'm looking for someone to test it while I make a video as an aid to the patenting procedure. Are you available ???? PS You will need to sign an insurance waiver............ Charlie

[HERO Maker]

There's the guy who tests the steering wheel airbag while sitting on top of it in the video, but I'm not sure he's still around!

[sclord2002]

Good help is hard to find !!!!! Charlie

[SuiteSuccess]

Heck Charlie, you're from South Carolina. There's got to be plenty of red-necked test pilots! A six pack and an endless loop tape saying "Watch This!"

[adept99]

Rickeieio;

That speed wobble thing only happens on tractors with tricycle gear, and then only at speeds in excess of 7.432 mph. As you may know, the only viable way to regain control is to add throttle in order to lighten the unsprung weight of the tricycle gear and as the wobble (hopefully) begins to diminish, begin to sit up straight to add drag and gradually slow the machine to a safe stop. At this point you can push the machine back to the barn or call for help. Take the offending wheels to the recapper and have them spin balanced.

 

Just remember, there is no substitute for safety...

 

Ur Fren

Paul

 

 

[rickeieio]

Well I expected smart a$$ response or two, but you guys are over achievers.

 

Paul, you sound like you might know what MSF/ERC is all about. And you put a nice twist on it.

 

The Super A only came with a wide front, and this one has about 190 degrees of play in the steering box. It doesn't wobble as much as bounce off the guard rails. I'll tear it apart this winter and see what gives. Grandpa bought this thing new in 1949, and when I bought it from Mom (for $1) she made me promise it will stay on the farm.

 

BTW, I think one of the tires I replaced was original.......so hard you could drive nails with it.

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

It's amazing that you could actually pull the lug bolts off, or nuts off, to change the tires. We had a early 1950's JD40 that was a trike... too much fun driving it diagonally across a ditch...! My father sold it to a guy that restored it to new condition... 6volt positive ground and all... what a pain in the butt that was..

[rickeieio]

It's amazing that you could actually pull the lug bolts off, or nuts off, to change the tires. We had a early 1950's JD40 that was a trike... too much fun driving it diagonally across a ditch...! My father sold it to a guy that restored it to new condition... 6volt positive ground and all... what a pain in the butt that was..

 

Lug bolts? I didn't loosen no stinking lug bolts.

 

Jack up front of tractor, let air out of tires, break beads and remove old tire. Reverse operation with new tire. Repeat on other side.

 

I don't have a tire changer, and the best way to hold the rim is to leave it on the axle. Plenty of Myer's tire mounting soap and it slips on real easy. When changing larger rear tires, I always leave the rims on the tractor and jack/lower the machine as necessary. Beats wrestling a 400# tire.

 

Scrap would say I shouldn't be fool'n around with tires, I should have tracks.