Volvo fuel tank strap replacement

[Sculptor]

This question is much easier than the fault code question.  Has anybody done this job?  It looks easy.  Any tricks or things to be aware of?  

The mounting bracket is a half circle of iron.  The strap is a flexible steel band with I think looped ends, that are the other half circle.  I have to un-bury the straps from the drom box and the fairing, but I don’t have a bed to get around.

2013 Volvo with 2 75-gallon tanks with 2 straps each.  I didn’t realize how rusted the straps were.  The right rear strap broke, and we got the tank ratchet strapped to the bracket on the frame.  We got to our destination ok.

I think it should be easy to replace.  I have a new replacement strap, actually both front and rear for the right hand tank.  Working on getting both for the left rear.  They seem symmetrical but are different part numbers for some reason.

Thanks in advance.

[SuiteSuccess]

I have done it about 10 years ago. I jacked the tank up with a hydraulic jack just enough to get the strap off and “cribbed it” with jack stands and 2x4s  front and back to act as cradle. You don’t want the tank to slip off jack and fall especially if full of fuel. Changed strap and reversed process. It was surprisingly easy. On recall I think I waited til tank was low on fuel to do this project just as added safety factor.  BTW on further recall, I used two jacks and a span of 2x6 to jack it up to spread the load. 

Edited May 4, 2023 by SuiteSuccess

[Darryl&Rita]

Get in behind the tank as much as possible, get a look at the condition of the frame mounted portion. Get all the grit and rust out of the whole area, while you're in there. Rust-Oleum is handy to have available.

[Sparky242]

I had to remove my 150-gal tank, I was able to pump it out so it was completely. the tank was a lot lighter than I thought it would be.  I cribbed it up in place to reconnect the straps. If you run the fuel down and can do one strap at a time it should be too bad.

[Sculptor]

So yesterday in 100 degree heat, we got the step fairings off.  They were pretty easy.  Detached the rear fairing bracket right side.  Crawled underneath and got good heavy ratchet straps on the center of both tanks.  Driver side straps are suspicious too but I can’t find them nearby.  2 heavy straps per side tank.

The drom box is basically a sleeper with a trailer door, so it covers the rear tank straps completely.  I loosened all 8 nuts holding the box to the frame just in case.  I had hope that a next door guy with a fork lift would come over and lift it up so I could block it, but that didn’t work out.  

I decided to remove the broken rear strap anyway.  I had doubts I could break it loose but after a bit of persuasion it broke loose.  It’s a 12mm Allen screw.  Got the pin out of the bottom, pin out of the top, and hosed the rubber insulator with Armorall.  There was a lot of salt in the grooves and I hoped it would loosen that up by morning.

This morning I started early, and got the rubber cleaned off as much as I could, used spots of contact cement to locate it on the new steel strap.  I wrapped another ratchet strap around it and got it to the basic size.  Put the lower pin in and tightened the ratchet.  We had to push and pull the tank strap a minimal amount while tightening.  Put the upper pin and bolt together and miraculously got the bolt threads started.   My wife began tightening with the impact wrench in fits and starts while I watched the strap loop get stretched tight.  Done deal.

 

 

Edited May 7, 2023 by Sculptor

[rickeieio]

Good on ya.  We replaced the straps on our Mack several years ago, with full tanks.  Not fun, but we had the luxury of doing it in our shop.  

You're doing right by cleaning that insulator strap.

[Sculptor]

Thanks Rick.  Next challenge I’m grappling with; I’m faced with the choice of removing the drom box, or the cab fairings, to access the front straps.  An overhead hoist or good sized forklift would be necessary for the drom removal.  I’m considering the fairings but still a challenge to access the bolts.  
Campgrounds are unnecessarily fussy about noisy drawn-out repairs on premises, don’t you think?

[Sculptor]

I’m trying to loosen the front strap. You can see the progress this morning.   The older U-joint was a Craftsman my dad owned. The breaker bar was from Northern Tool. Both 1/2” drive. 
The Milwaukee impact driver has not broken it loose, but will continue trying with Blaster.  Might drive out to a Harbor Freight today. 

[rickeieio]

If you're replacing it, just cut the old one off.

[Sculptor]

58 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

If you're replacing it, just cut the old one off.

Yes I’m replacing it.  I’m trying to break the tightening bolt loose.  Until you said that, it didn’t occur to me if I cut the strap, I can maybe pivot the top tightening screw to get a straight-in extension and bar on it.  Might try that.  I have a shorter breaker bar and a pipe. 

[Sculptor]

57 minutes ago, Sculptor said:

Yes I’m replacing it.  I’m trying to break the tightening bolt loose.  Until you said that, it didn’t occur to me if I cut the strap, I can maybe pivot the top tightening screw to get a straight-in extension and bar on it.  Might try that.  I have a shorter breaker bar and a pipe. 

The local guy got it loose. Took a small torch and about 10 minutes of effort.  He’s a bit richer now. Remove and Replacement tomorrow morning when it’s cooler.  Thanks Rick for your suggestions!!

[rickeieio]

Kevin, I was relating your situation to Susan.  Her response was, "Heck, I could go there and help.  I have experience with those."  And indeed she does.🤣

[SuiteSuccess]

“ Thanks Rick for your suggestions!!”

Kevin, Rick has plenty of suggestions for work that Susan can do.  That’s why she’s the experienced one.  😜

[rickeieio]

9 minutes ago, SuiteSuccess said:

“ Thanks Rick for your suggestions!!”

Kevin, Rick has plenty of suggestions for work that Susan can do.  That’s why she’s the experienced one.  😜

Carl, don't be giving away all my secrets.

Kevin and I talked yesterday.  I suggested applying heat to the offending fastener, but he was apprehensive about using fire near the tank.  And justifiably so.  If you're uncomfortable and/or unfamiliar with something like that, let a red-neck like me do it.  So, he took it to a local guy who got 'er done.  A few dollars for peace of mind is not a bad thing.

[Sculptor]

You guys crack me up.  I needed that. 🙂

[SuiteSuccess]

On 5/13/2023 at 9:00 AM, rickeieio said:

Carl, don't be giving away all my secrets.

Kevin and I talked yesterday.  I suggested applying heat to the offending fastener, but he was apprehensive about using fire near the tank.  And justifiably so.  If you're uncomfortable and/or unfamiliar with something like that, let a red-neck like me do it.  So, he took it to a local guy who got 'er done.  A few dollars for peace of mind is not a bad thing.

Rick, you are absolutely correct.  Confession:  In the dead of winter I was in my detached garage preparing to bend a piece of steel bar.  Had it in the Vice, pulled out the old bernz a matic torch and light it.  Well hadn’t screwed the nozzle down well and the whole thing erupted in flame.  Now I’m in the back end of a garage with the door down, holding a fire bomb!  So being somewhat intelligent (debatable), I throw it on the floor and the damn thing starts to roll under my Smart car which was parked in the garage.  I managed to get to the garage door opener, open the door, and sweep the bomb out into the driveway before complete destruction.  Point of fact, though, a water hose and fire extinguisher will not extinguish a rushing propane bottle fire.  Now before anyone asks why not just turn the knob off. Yeah right, the knob was completely melted off.

Moral to this confession!  If under a truck in a cramped space with flammables close at hand?  Better have made peace with your maker or pay someone to do it for you that is experienced.  Like Kevin, I’ll choose the later.  And Rick, don’t expect Susan to do it, lol!