Help with roof

[Stayto]

Hi-

my rubber roof is in need of treatment. Based on what I had read, at first I thought that the black would scrub off, but as it turns out, black is the color that is underneath the white coating that is coming off when I scrub. I assume the white is a sealant which needs to be reapplied(see photo). Is this correct? If so, what product should I use? Also, how much scrubbing should I do before applying? I’m asking, because the black rubber just continues to break down under scrubbing/friction and is making quite a mess of the sides of my RV. This is the first RV I’ve owned. Thanks for any help.

[Kirk W]

Welcome to the forums! There are several options but it would help to know for sure what the roofing is. I suspect that it is EDPM based on the age. If I'm right then it is likely a Dicor product and you can get Dicor Corp RP-SELRC-1 EPDM Rubber Roof Coating from Amazon as a good option but there are other brands that cost less and may work well. Another good option would be to consider having it done by someone like RV Armor or Flex Armor or one of the other spray on, permanent roof companies. A great deal depends on what you are willing to spend and how long you expect to keep this RV and how old it is.

[D&J]

I used Crazy Seal/Liquid Roof a couple of years ago and I'm happy with it. No adding activator before use just mix it and apply.

Denny

[Stayto]

Thank you for that information. And just to follow up, how much more scrubbing (if any) should I do before applying?

[Kirk W]

Just follow the directions that come with whichever product you decide to use. All of the good ones come with detailed instructions.

[GlennWest]

I used Henry's Tropic cool roof treatment. Clean with pressure washer, allow to dry and mop on. 

[D&J]

2 hours ago, Stayto said:

Thank you for that information. And just to follow up, how much more scrubbing (if any) should I do before applying?

You just have to make sure it's clean and mold free and all the caulking is solid. If you have to replace any of the sealant let it cure for a couple of weeks before coating the roof.

Denny

[RV_]

Any leaks inside before? Any soft spots when you walk on the roof different than the rest of the roof, if so or it did actually leak inside from the roof before then you may want to replace the whole thing, to remove the "rubber roof" and repair/replace the roof membrane. It needs to be in a place with a roof to protect from rain while that work is done.

I would follow Kirk's advice and use Dicor products because they are one the largest EPDM membrane manufacturers and know what works.

The life of one of these is usually 10-20 years tops.

What damages them the most are cleaners that contain petroleum distillates for cleaning. Even some RV products contain petroleum.

From your picture you are long overdue for a new roof whether over the old with one of the coating products you can apply, or all new.

Safe Travels!

[GlennWest]

if he goes with spray on roof, which is the best and most cost also no need for membrane. They can spray right over wood. If my roof had been that bad I would likely went that route. Mine was in good shape just wanted it sealed before solar.

[RV_]

1 hour ago, GlennWest said:

if he goes with spray on roof, which is the best and most cost also no need for membrane. They can spray right over wood. If my roof had been that bad I would likely went that route. Mine was in good shape just wanted it sealed before solar.

You are right Glenn but it looked like the recommendations were for the mop over membrane types. I have seen the pro applied urethane or whatever replacement for the membrane. But if it leaked in the past it might be wise to pull the membrane and look for rot and mold. I did have a roof replaced on our next to last 28 foot SunnyBrook Lite and only had some stained wood that was in good shape. They used marine plywood on the roof and only the wood under the front and back cap joints were affected with no rot.

Safe Travels!

[Stayto]

4 hours ago, RV_ said:

Any leaks inside before? Any soft spots when you walk on the roof different than the rest of the roof, if so or it did actually leak inside from the roof before then you may want to replace the whole thing, to remove the "rubber roof" and repair/replace the roof membrane. It needs to be in a place with a roof to protect from rain while that work is done.

I would follow Kirk's advice and use Dicor products because they are one the largest EPDM membrane manufacturers and know what works.

The life of one of these is usually 10-20 years tops.

What damages them the most are cleaners that contain petroleum distillates for cleaning. Even some RV products contain petroleum.

From your picture you are long overdue for a new roof whether over the old with one of the coating products you can apply, or all new.

Safe Travels!

Thank you for this info. No evidence of leaking inside, nor any detectable soft spots in roof. I would replace the roof if I was going to keep it. This fifth wheel is 20 years old and also very heavy. I’m going to sell it before I’m stuck with it. Don’t know how I’ll find a covered place to do the work, but maybe rain will let up by summer.

[GlennWest]

What is your rv? Mine is 20 years old also but in great shape.

[RV_]

3 hours ago, Stayto said:

Thank you for this info. No evidence of leaking inside, nor any detectable soft spots in roof. I would replace the roof if I was going to keep it. This fifth wheel is 20 years old and also very heavy. I’m going to sell it before I’m stuck with it. Don’t know how I’ll find a covered place to do the work, but maybe rain will let up by summer.

 Since no leaks or soft spots, amazing with that amount of wear on it, that may work fine.

Hope your weather cooperates.

[Stayto]

3 hours ago, GlennWest said:

What is your rv? Mine is 20 years old also but in great shape.

It is a Gulf Stream Sea Hawk(fifth wheel), but I am it’s 3rd owner. And I did not do my due diligence when purchasing. Also, being fairly  uneducated on storage/protection, I let it sit uncovered for about a year in Colorado at an appreciable altitude of 5400 ft. 

[Kirk W]

8 hours ago, Stayto said:

I let it sit uncovered for about a year in Colorado at an appreciable altitude of 5400 ft. 

It might have been somewhat better if it had been under cover  but what you have is pretty normal for an EDPM roof after 20 years. As long as it has not been leaking what you have should not be a problem if you take care of it. As long as you didn't pay too much for it you probably haven't done that badly.

[GlennWest]

I never cover ours. Well back up on that , covered with solar panels now.

[Stayto]

31 minutes ago, Kirk W said:

It might have been somewhat better if it had been under cover  but what you have is pretty normal for an EDPM roof after 20 years. As long as it has not been leaking what you have should not be a problem if you take care of it. As long as you didn't pay too much for it you probably haven't done that badly.

Good to know. Sadly, I overpaid for it as it was during a time a couple years back when inventory was low and everyone was looking to escape their various lockdowns. I got it as an emergency “bug out” vehicle to flee the state where I lived if that became necessary. It did not, but I ended up leaving anyway. I like to think if I can get the roof looking decent, that this will be better suited to be lived in than traveled with, which many folks around here seem to do. Thanks for the help!

[Ray,IN]

If I may add to Kirks  good advice; In addition to paint-type coatings, you might compare that cost to the cost and work of re-covering the roof with Dicor BritePly membrane. Might make the cost of paint-type products seem more reasonable.

Installation instructions: https://www.camperpartsworld.com/BriteTEKReplacementRVRoof30x86.html

Dicor aftermarket membrane comes with a 12-yr limited warranty.  https://dicorproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/BRITEPLY_RETROFIT_WARRANTY.pdf

Edited May 6, 2023 by Ray,IN

[rpsinc]

On 5/5/2023 at 5:47 AM, Stayto said:

Good to know. Sadly, I overpaid for it as it was during a time a couple years back when inventory was low and everyone was looking to escape their various lockdowns. I got it as an emergency “bug out” vehicle to flee the state where I lived if that became necessary. It did not, but I ended up leaving anyway. I like to think if I can get the roof looking decent, that this will be better suited to be lived in than traveled with, which many folks around here seem to do. Thanks for the help!

I was an installer of RV roofs for a while and this was after I had done some of my own.

RV Armor and Flex Armor are the most expensive options but may be good for you IF you intend on having it done and the LIFETIME warranty is something that you have to have.

Another installed option is RVRoofingpros.com.  Lou does a great job and also offers lifetime warranty.  His membrane has Kevlar added for durability.

On 5/3/2023 at 3:47 PM, D&J said:

Crazy Seal/Liquid Roof

Those 2 products are different.  Crazy Seal is owned by the same guy as RV Armor BUT its a silicone based coating.  While it works I wouldnt use it mostly because it is WAY more difficult to do repairs in the future.  Liquid Roof has been around a long time and works well but it is a 2-part catalyzed product.  I always added multiple layers but it is EPDM based and lends itself to repairs and is very DIY friendly.

On 5/3/2023 at 6:00 PM, GlennWest said:

Henry's Tropic cool

Not really a RV product but can be OK for stationary rigs.  It is more intended for flat roofs on mobile homes and houses.

 

If I was looking for a DIY product with proven track record and EPDM based and with the best value, as long as I was willing to do the work, Liquid Roof is my choice.  I would use a couple additional coats.  A best value for an applied roof that I would have installed and carries a warranty- Rvroofingpros.com.  Can be done where ever the trailer is unlike Flex Armor which has to be done in a franchise location.  RV Armor is solvent based and has a strong odor that lasts a long time but the product does provide a good result.

 

Any of these require good cleaning to get the best results.  I dont encourage pressure washing just lots of elbow grease, cleaning with blue Dawn and removing all the soapy residue is necessary.  Scrub brushes are absolutely key and for those hard to clean areas, some mineral spirits as a cleaner with elbow grease.  IF the years have brought multiple applications of Dicor caulking to joint areas and the front/rear caps, knock those down if they are piled up, using a multi-tool.  No need to remove it all although leaving some can be helpful.  Embedding some polyester fabric into the coating over the joints is very good, and doing it before the monolithic coatings are done.

 

Hope this helps.

[RV_]

37 minutes ago, rpsinc said:

I was an installer of RV roofs for a while and this was after I had done some of my own.

Any of these require good cleaning to get the best results.  I dont encourage pressure washing just lots of elbow grease, cleaning with blue Dawn and removing all the soapy residue is necessary.  Scrub brushes are absolutely key and for those hard to clean areas, some mineral spirits as a cleaner with elbow grease.  IF the years have brought multiple applications of Dicor caulking to joint areas and the front/rear caps, knock those down if they are piled up, using a multi-tool.  No need to remove it all although leaving some can be helpful.  Embedding some polyester fabric into the coating over the joints is very good, and doing it before the monolithic coatings are done.

Great post from experience! Too many times we see Googled results from folks with no experience, and it shows. You've give a lot of good info for folks with roof issues to consider.

[GlennWest]

I am very content with Henry's Tropic cool. Mine been on a few years now and still looks great. Only drawback I see is it slick when wet.

[rpsinc]

4 hours ago, GlennWest said:

I am very content with Henry's Tropic cool. Mine been on a few years now and still looks great. Only drawback I see is it slick when wet.

That is because it is silicone based.  The biggest issue with silicone based products is that they are very hard to do repairs with.  So if you happen to scrub a tree limb on your trailers outside radius and that needs to be repaired, then it becomes tough because silicone is SO SLICK that nothing sticks to it, but it sticks to most things.  So it works well as a once and done coating and why it is used so much on residential, commercial and mobile homes, once and done, and those units dont move, unless there some sort of natural disaster.

If you are happy with the results then that is great, because it is your rig that you repaired.  We all make the best choice we can with the information that we have available at the time we make the decision.

 

[GlennWest]

Speaking of repairs I can buy caulking tubes of Henry's tropic cool. Used that for mount screws on solar panels.

[D&J]

8 hours ago, rpsinc said:

I was an installer of RV roofs for a while and this was after I had done some of my own.

RV Armor and Flex Armor are the most expensive options but may be good for you IF you intend on having it done and the LIFETIME warranty is something that you have to have.

Another installed option is RVRoofingpros.com.  Lou does a great job and also offers lifetime warranty.  His membrane has Kevlar added for durability.

Those 2 products are different.  Crazy Seal is owned by the same guy as RV Armor BUT its a silicone based coating.  While it works I wouldnt use it mostly because it is WAY more difficult to do repairs in the future.  Liquid Roof has been around a long time and works well but it is a 2-part catalyzed product.  I always added multiple layers but it is EPDM based and lends itself to repairs and is very DIY friendly.

Not really a RV product but can be OK for stationary rigs.  It is more intended for flat roofs on mobile homes and houses.

 

If I was looking for a DIY product with proven track record and EPDM based and with the best value, as long as I was willing to do the work, Liquid Roof is my choice.  I would use a couple additional coats.  A best value for an applied roof that I would have installed and carries a warranty- Rvroofingpros.com.  Can be done where ever the trailer is unlike Flex Armor which has to be done in a franchise location.  RV Armor is solvent based and has a strong odor that lasts a long time but the product does provide a good result.

 

Any of these require good cleaning to get the best results.  I dont encourage pressure washing just lots of elbow grease, cleaning with blue Dawn and removing all the soapy residue is necessary.  Scrub brushes are absolutely key and for those hard to clean areas, some mineral spirits as a cleaner with elbow grease.  IF the years have brought multiple applications of Dicor caulking to joint areas and the front/rear caps, knock those down if they are piled up, using a multi-tool.  No need to remove it all although leaving some can be helpful.  Embedding some polyester fabric into the coating over the joints is very good, and doing it before the monolithic coatings are done.

 

Hope this helps.

Not sure what your experience with Crazy Seal and repairs but we had a encounter with a tree branch the first year it was applied that made 3 triangle tears in the roof radius. I sealed them with lap sealant and when we got home a couple of coats of Crazy Seal and all was good. Because the branch rubbed all the way down the trailer I cleaned and and recoated it all the way down. Just cleaned and inspected it after getting back from the winter in AZ and it looks just like I applied it.

Denny

[GlennWest]

Crazy seal is silicone also.