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Jackalopee Running lights no signal out


lockmup68

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Running lights on trailer worked fine, unplugged for two weeks, plugged back in, everything works except running lights. 
 

start diagnosing at truck. Truck plug out is OK. Plug connections all good and tight, continuity is good end to end. Signal in to Jackalopee is good. No light and no signal on the right side of the board for running lights. Everything else works as it should. 
 

is one of the relays for the running lights? If so, which one? Four in the middle, top right maybe?

2003 International Eagle 9200i, Cummins ISX, Freedomline

2007 Teton Scottsdale XT4

 

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Swap a couple of relays and see if the problem moves to a new function.  Other than the self induced water intrusion, the ONLY issue I've ever had with a Jackalopee was two faulty relays.  Keep a few spares.

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net

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47 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

Swap a couple of relays and see if the problem moves to a new function.  Other than the self induced water intrusion, the ONLY issue I've ever had with a Jackalopee was two faulty relays.  Keep a few spares.

Will try that in the morning. It is inside, so no moisture issues. 

2003 International Eagle 9200i, Cummins ISX, Freedomline

2007 Teton Scottsdale XT4

 

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Mr. Henry gave me a call. No relay on the running lights, just pass through, so something going on there on the board. I jumped across and all works fine with the jumper. So I tied in a jumper on the terminal strips from truck to trailer to keep me on the road. All tested and works fine now. I'll relay news to Mr. Henry tomorrow. 

I will pick up a relay or two to keep in spare box. 

 

2003 International Eagle 9200i, Cummins ISX, Freedomline

2007 Teton Scottsdale XT4

 

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Running lights are strictly a pass through from the tab on the truck side, across the printed circuit board (crossing from one side of the circuit board to another) to the tab on the trailer side. No relay involved.

Most likely culprit, PCB feedthrough from one side of the board to the other although these are pretty "moosy" and two of them for redundancy.  Other possibilities, tab connections.

How old is your Jackalopee and does it show signs of corrosion?

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10 hours ago, phoenix2013 said:

Running lights are strictly a pass through from the tab on the truck side, across the printed circuit board (crossing from one side of the circuit board to another) to the tab on the trailer side. No relay involved.

Most likely culprit, PCB feedthrough from one side of the board to the other although these are pretty "moosy" and two of them for redundancy.  Other possibilities, tab connections.

How old is your Jackalopee and does it show signs of corrosion?

four years old. No corrosion, inside bunk, so no moisture. Tabs seem solid. 

2003 International Eagle 9200i, Cummins ISX, Freedomline

2007 Teton Scottsdale XT4

 

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Re-read your original post. Signal in but no led indicator light.  Either the input post is bad, or there's a break in the board.  A simple test light should find it.

But, I'd be checking that input signal again.  It might be a little flakey.

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net

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Corroded copper wire strands in the crimp. Again, back to the "quality" of parts used by the RV industry (as discussed on the other thread). I had a chance to "rewire things" connected with RV 7 wire cable after few years on the road. I was surprised at how black and oxidized the individual strands were when stripped anew on an older cable. Requiring sandpaper routine before crimping or clamping.

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On 11/4/2020 at 12:58 PM, phoenix2013 said:

Corroded copper wire strands in the crimp. Again, back to the "quality" of parts used by the RV industry (as discussed on the other thread). I had a chance to "rewire things" connected with RV 7 wire cable after few years on the road. I was surprised at how black and oxidized the individual strands were when stripped anew on an older cable. Requiring sandpaper routine before crimping or clamping.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gardner-Bender-1-oz-Ox-Gard-Anti-Oxidant-Compound/4514334?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-elc-_-google-_-lia-_-106-_-electricalaccessories-_-4514334-_-0&placeholder=null&&ds_a_cid=112741100&gclid=CjwKCAiAqJn9BRB0EiwAJ1Sztc4y8q1JZ6sETD0s3uugAxjg2Hr6UJKk-qa0s0yGvwOUT2VFAUF2EBoCDmgQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

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  • 2 weeks later...

So back to more troubleshooting. 12v at the trailer plug on truck. Cable from truck to jackalopee good. Plug good. 12v on left side of jackalopee, nada on right side. Unplugged running lights wire from board on both sides and used a jumper wire to wire. Works fine and no breaker tripping. If wires are hooked up to jackalopee board, breaker trips. Does not tripped when jumped. Leads me to believe, break in the board. 
 

 

2003 International Eagle 9200i, Cummins ISX, Freedomline

2007 Teton Scottsdale XT4

 

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No corrosion that I can see. Here’s the jumper. Board is very clean, inside, and dry. 
 

bPem9Xgl.jpg

haven’t pulled entire thing apart yet. On road next few weeks. Will have some down time over the holidays. 

and yes. I am aware of the color mismatch on the outbound. Color blind helper (didn’t know) who just traced and hooked up when I was sick, and it is all working properly. I will fix colors when I have some downtime. 

Edited by lockmup68

2003 International Eagle 9200i, Cummins ISX, Freedomline

2007 Teton Scottsdale XT4

 

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This is truly weird, simplest imaginable circuit on a printed circuit board. On the truck side on top, tab is soldered into the RUNNING LIGHTS etch. Etch needs to go to the bottom side of the board to weave through the relays circuitry.

 2XPOWbKl.jpg

This is accomplished through two feedthroughs to carry the current to the bottom. In PCB technology these are massive each one capable to carry several amps of power (for 10 gauge wire), I doubled it just for good measure and redundancy. Feedthroughs emerge on the bottom side etch and continue to the trailer RUNNING LIGHTS tab.

LZOrhPcl.jpg

The board designer only solders one leg of the tab to the bottom etch, on "reflection" I probably should have told him to encompass both, again for redundancy, but "it's so simple".

See what you can find, if it doesn't make sense send me the board I'll replace it, I want to see that SOB.

To remove the board, you have to remove the wires and cable grips (large and small) on one side of the case, then you can tip it out.

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