What Is Your Yearly Preventive Maintenance?

SuiteSuccess · March 18, 2017

Time to start taking Hoss out of the winter mothballs. I usually change oil and filters including fuel filters in the fall. I do an oil analysis at that time. My routine is to drive the truck every two weeks through the winter and get it up to operating temps for at least 10 minutes. I also keep on charger all winter. So today I'll go check fluids, crawl around as best I can under the truck to look for leaks or obvious problems, check and fill all tires, reinstall my TST sensors and go for a long drive. I also do an air system/ brake test. What do you do for preventive or routine maintenance?

Second question, I haven't changed the trannie or other fluids since purchase but I also haven't met the mileage recommendations of Volvo. So is this something the dealer shop needs to do or can "Speedco" or similar do it? I'm concerned because my reading shows the trannie needs flushing to prevent incompatible fluids interacting and causing issues. When I checked with my dealer they don't have a package deal but rather charge usual labor rate of $135/hr plus parts so thinking just fluid change would be $$$.

brunsje · March 18, 2017

Same. Only drive monthly for a 55 mile loop. JohnnyB

shorts · March 18, 2017

have you had a transmission oil sample analyzed ? and what were the results and recommendations ? fluid sampling/analysis is an excellent tool for all lubes and coolant especially compaired to the cost of just changing or not changing fluids based on time or mileage alone.

MrSeas · March 18, 2017

How about brakes/cans?

Front hubs fluid level/ condition?

Rear axle bearing condition?

Rear end fluid?

Grease complete chassis?

Air dryer filter?

Coolant condition/filter if equipped?

Air Filter?

Cabin air filter(s)

SuiteSuccess · March 18, 2017

42 minutes ago, shorts said:

have you had a transmission oil sample analyzed ? and what were the results and recommendations ? fluid sampling/analysis is an excellent tool for all lubes and coolant especially compaired to the cost of just changing or not changing fluids based on time or mileage alone.

I have not. Good suggestion.

SuiteSuccess · March 18, 2017

30 minutes ago, MrSeas said:

How about brakes/cans?

Front hubs fluid level/ condition?

Rear axle bearing condition?

Rear end fluid?

Grease complete chassis?

Air dryer filter?

Coolant condition/filter if equipped?

Air Filter?

Cabin air filter(s)

I check brake cans and pads (to the best of my abilities), hub fluid level, have chassis lubed at oil change, coolant also checked at oil change and I check with hydrometer at home, I try to change air dryer filter every two years but have a stubborn one I can't get off now. I also change cabin air filter yearly. Air cleaner when indicated. How do you check condition of hub fluid, and rear axle bearing because I don't do that but would like to learn? I get oil changes at Speedco and they also check all fluid levels in the pm service I get. Mixed reviews on Speedco but the one I use seems to do a good job. I even use their oil analysis as I had them do one and sent one for comparison to Blackstone Labs and they had the same results on three separate occasions.

hone eagle · March 18, 2017

Plus every connection to and on the battery bank.

petrel · March 18, 2017

60 mile interstate run every 3-4 weeks. Full pre-trip before each run (Air, leaks, brakes, levels, bearings, lugs, lights, etc.). I leave the chassis/generator maintenance to a certified Freightliner/Onan Service Center. Once a year or ever 15,000 miles.

I do all the "house" maintenance and repairs myself, but since the truck has less than 100,000 miles on it, I like to let Freightliner authorized service take a peek at it regularly.

SuiteSuccess · March 18, 2017

Thanks for the replies. Now what about getting the fluids changed besides oil? Where would you have that done and does the trannie need flushing with the change?

Exile · March 19, 2017

To check the front axle oil levels, there is a window in the middle of the hub on trucks i have driven. Two circles, with low and high on them. Check before moving. Also, if there is oil on the inside of your front rims, this is probably where it came from. They dont like to sit.

rear ends usually have two plugs, one low to drain, one high to fill. Level is usually at or near to high plug. At least on lighter duty vehicles. Check online info for your particular axles.

sclord2002 · March 19, 2017

Carl, Speedco does a 3 box [trans and both rears] synthetic gear lube change for $ 380.00 plus tax and disposal fee. Mineral oil is about $180.00, I think. I believe I would go with the synthetic, which I think Volvo uses at the factory ?? Speedco prices are on their website. Our Speedco in Duncan, SC seems to do a good job. Charlie

SuiteSuccess · March 19, 2017

7 minutes ago, sclord2002 said:

Carl, Speedco does a 3 box [trans and both rears] synthetic gear lube change for $ 380.00 plus tax and disposal fee. Mineral oil is about $180.00, I think. I believe I would go with the synthetic, which I think Volvo uses at the factory ?? Speedco prices are on their website. Our Speedco in Duncan, SC seems to do a good job. Charlie

Charlie,

Do they flush the trannie? I've heard if lubes are not the same can interact and cause problems. Am I wrong?

sclord2002 · March 19, 2017

Carl, I doubt that they flush the Trannie, but I'm not sure. I am not aware of problems from mixing the small amount of lube that would be left after draining, with the new lube of choice. I am not a professional, so other opinions may differ. I would not hesitate to change lubes w/o flushing on my rig. It will be interesting to see if other folks feel differently. Charlie

MrSeas · March 19, 2017

That brings up an interesting thought.....

Who amongst you have had their tranny fluid changed on an ishift?

How many gals of fluid does it require and what was the cost? Where did you have the work down?

NoDirectionHome · March 19, 2017

Guys, these are automated MANUAL transmissions. Not automatics with valve bodies and a converter. Just make sure you bring it in hot and they let it fully drain.

NeverEasy · March 19, 2017

Carl,

I just changed my tranny fluid. The autoshift generation 2 in my '01 takes 28 pints (3.5 Gal). I ordered the 50w synthetic it takes from Amazon as that was the least expensive I could find. $160.19 for 4 gallons of Mobil Delvac Synthetic Transmission Fluid 50W. Amazon # 112812-4PK. The spec on that from Eaton is PS-386.

I used the name plate on the side of the transmission and googled the transmission. Eaton gave me all the specs for change interval and fluid capacity.

The I-shifts us Eaton spec PS-295.

alan0043 · March 19, 2017

9 hours ago, beekeeper.va said:

Carl,

I just changed my tranny fluid. The autoshift generation 2 in my '01 takes 28 pints (3.5 Gal). I ordered the 50w synthetic it takes from Amazon as that was the least expensive I could find. $160.19 for 4 gallons of Mobil Delvac Synthetic Transmission Fluid 50W. Amazon # 112812-4PK. The spec on that from Eaton is PS-386.

I used the name plate on the side of the transmission and googled the transmission. Eaton gave me all the specs for change interval and fluid capacity.

The I-shifts us Eaton spec PS-295.

Carl,

I know this thought will not help you but for people with an I-Shift Gregg from RVHaulers gives some info about the fluid change on an I-Shift in one of his video's.

Al

Alie&Jim's Carrilite · March 19, 2017

Carl-

The only other fluid that you might change would be the steering. This isn't an every year change. Might be a once in a lifetime change for us, since we put so few miles on our trucks. The hydraulic fluid- either DOT3/4 power steering, transmission fluid, or regular hydraulic fluid absorbs moisture over time, and also breaks down the inside of the hoses making them weep at the fittings (usually).

I don't have an autoshift trans, but I do have a clutch. After flushing the master and slave cylinders, the clutch pedal worked (pushed in) much easier.