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Remote wireless monitor plus camera


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The plan is still to make the WCR although I turned a job down to make it. Anyway the EZ Connector is done as well as the Truck to trailer battery charging system. The Isolator is attached to the rear of the battery box. We installed a waterproof box under the hauler body to make the splices from the EZC to the truck wiring. A lot better than inlines and electrical tape.


What I'd like is a remote reader for trailer battery voltage. A sensor on the batteries getting power from the batteries and a remote gauge in the truck cab, say in the visor area. Not on the dash, it wouldn't match what's there. and I don't like things blocking my view. I figure to pull power from the fuse panel or would it be ok to tap into the visor lites for power if they are hooked up to the DRL's. Not sure about tapping into any existing systems.....Randy plus others may frown on it. Don't want anything Mickey Mouse.


Also the fwd looking camera would go in the same area. With the visor area being pulled down for access, it may be a good opportunity to deal with that as well. Big Fiver has a tidy system, wiring tucked away and as I recall camera turned on with the ignition switch....works for me.


There are a host of cameras and everyone has there preferences. Simple works for me. My neighbor has one with a flip down screen but when handling the screen it is easy to inadvertently touch control buttons, so that one is out.


The idea would be to get these items in advance or have them shipped to the WCR and install them there. I don't necessarily want others to do the work but to give me guidance. Thumb tip will still be in a splint but will be 5 weeks post surgery so I still have to be careful. This was their 4 time into that hand. My Xrays look better than Randy's. Gory pics on request.


If another job opportunity crops up, I may have to take it. At my age they don't come often.

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I bought the SJ4000 last Christmas as a gift for myself after reading comments on this forum and doing some on-line research. It is an amazing little camera with a bright, clear and very detailed image. It is the Chinese version of the Go-Pro. Of course, you could always go for the real thing for a few hundred more bucks. You really need a USB power cord for dash cam use as the battery will not hold up for much more than 2 hours, but the current is so low it could be tapped into your existing wiring with a cig lighter pigtail and a plug-in USB power adapter - but, no, I really do not like doing it that way. You do have several "open" circuits in your OEM fuse panel that can be accessed with a spade lug so the lug could be pulled should you require electrical service at a Volvo dealership. I can tell you where they are if you want to go that way. I did get the wi-fi model of the SJ4000 cam so I can use my iPhone for a remote monitor - or any wi-fi enabled video monitor for that manner. Makes it nice for surveillance too! I run a 32 GB SD card in loop mode and record about 5 hours before it recycles. Also got the waterproof case so I can use it underwater with the boat, 2 extra batteries and a sack full of mounts ranging from windshield to bike to headband to lapel. Something to consider.


I'll tell you - it gives a lot of bang for the buck and is extremely versatile.


I doubt that you will have much success with a wireless voltmeter that will send an RF from your camper batteries to a monitor in the truck. The ones that do exist are expensive and IMHO have questionable accuracy. While it is yet another wire (you currently have a ground so only need one) the wire can be extremely small. You could pick up the positive off the isolator at the back of the truck and use a small meter like this one or something similar that does not need an added case.


Where there is a will, there is always a way :rolleyes:.

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I also bought the SJCam Randy refers to above. It is a great little camera that has the same quality as a GoPro. I like it a LOT, and it will use many of the GoPro accessories. BUT, it will not use the various "specialized" GoPro housings, since the buttons are located in different positions. So if you intend to utilize specialty cases, be aware you will have issues.


For dash cams I have tried several and do like the dedicated, specialized dashcams. They are worth the little bit of extra money to me, if you don't want a camera that can be used for other purposes. Take a look at something like THIS ONE. It is important to get something that can take high heat - because over time the heat will destroy many of the cameras. The Garmin Dash Cam 20 is also quite good. LINK.

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We had a G1W that worked for a year. It might still work but needs a little soldering on the plug in port.

Until the Go-Pro knockoff gets here, we're using a $49.95 cheapee that seems to work well. It has all the functions that you need and will run off a USB outlet which works better for us.


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You also might consider the GW1-C, which does not use a battery, but a capacitor. No danger of of battery overheating thru the windshield. I have been running one for two years, has excellent picture quality.



OK - another toy to order and play around with. I like the price and video specs. I wish you guys would quit telling me about these things (not really - I love these little gadgets).


BUT - (always a but). As noted in the GW1-C specs, "Black Box Capacitor model must be plugged in at all times to continue recording." From a technology point of view, this is really nothing new. It just sounds new (and neat). The capacitor must be charged and recharged from a power source to function. So, I am wondering why the capacitor at all? Shucks, a DC supply is all it needs....... well, a capacitor can add a little noise filtering - I guess :unsure: .

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I use the CTEK bluetooth batt monitor app on a bunch of trucks that sit around at work and it works pretty good. Never tried it in a trailer on the road, and it doesn't really "stream" like a gauge, but it might still do enough of what you are looking for?

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