bmzero Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 I'm working on a new ramp design. Here's what I have come up with: 2-piece(each leg 7' long) design, 14' total 190 degree bend in the middle (fixed angle) Pin-secured connector inserted between each ramp half to provide faultless positive connection Uses 3" .25" wall rectangular aluminum tubing (extremely strong) 9" wide - is this wide enough??? Ramp surface covered with grip-tape for traction Each set of ramps will disassemble and slide in the side of the bed with about 1/2" of room to spare on top and sides. Ramps will slide in on a 1/4" sheet of UHMW on floor and sides of ramp cavities. Ramps will clip in to stay secure and rattle-free while traveling. My two main questions are: Will 9" be wide enough? Is a 2-piece ramp inconvenient (each section weighs 44 lbs)? The 2-piece design is necessary to allow the main tubes of the ramps to be as tall as possible (3"). The width of the ramps (9") is dictated by the desire to place both ramp halves side by side in the storage cavity below the bed surface. The ramps will secure to the truck using receiver-tube mounts built into the bed. This will allow the distance between the ramps to be adjustable. I carry many different things on the bed of this truck (Smart car, adventure trailer, motorcycles, ATV's, etc.). They all have different track widths. Adjustable width ramps is a must for my needs. Single section: View High Resolution Photo Single section bottom: View High Resolution Photo Connector: View High Resolution Photo Single section with connector: View High Resolution Photo Connector in single section: View High Resolution Photo Assembled ramp: View High Resolution Photo "Willy Mammoth" - Volvo 730, Sold Heartland Cyclone 4000 Toy HaulerT-Minus 26 years and counting to being a full timer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 Just comparing to the Big Boy II ramps- I would go wider if possible. Looking at their ramps, it looks like they lay the tubing horizontal for a shorter cross section. http://www.discountramps.com/smart-car-ramps/p/MF2-14438-SC/ Alie & Jim + 8 paws 2017 DRV Memphis BART- 1998 Volvo 610 Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldride Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 Looks good to me similar to what i'm doing with the spyder ramps. 2011 CAN-AM Spyder Rt SE5, 2010 Alpine 5th wheel, 1998 Vovlo VNL610 Hopefully 2 years 6 month till full time retirement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmzero Posted April 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 Just comparing to the Big Boy II ramps- I would go wider if possible. Looking at their ramps, it looks like they lay the tubing horizontal for a shorter cross section. http://www.discountramps.com/smart-car-ramps/p/MF2-14438-SC/ They're using 2" x 1" rectangular tubing. With 1" wide tubing, they're not able to get 1/4" wall. That's why I went to two pieces (instead of four) of 1/4" wall. Without using quantifiable FEA, this ramp design should be more rigid than that design, even though I'm using less "runners". Both designs have a combined vertical wall thickness of 1". However, my design uses 3" of vertical wall, as where those are 2" of vertical wall. I'm also welding in spans between the main runners which also add to the rigidity, dispersing the load over the 1" tube for each span. Their grip rods are not structural, vertically. The evidence of this is in the weight of the ramps. There's a big difference. I don't mean that to sound like I don't like the Big Boy ramps. To be honest, if I could store that ramp where I want to store the ramps, I would have already ordered them. They're a great ramp. I just don't want to raise my bed surface high enough to store them in the ramp cavity. However, since it looks like I'm going to have to build some ramps, they might as well be the best ramps I can build. "Willy Mammoth" - Volvo 730, Sold Heartland Cyclone 4000 Toy HaulerT-Minus 26 years and counting to being a full timer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HERO Maker Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 I do not know about the newest of the smarts, but on all the other ones the inside of the front tires to the outside of the rear tires is 10 inches. If needed, I could load using a 9 inch ramp, but would rather not. Rocky & Sheri Rhoades '01 Volvo 770 2016 DRV Mobile Suites, HoustonHERO Makers Ministry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HERO Maker Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 Once you install the connectors you will still have to lift the 88 lb ramp into place unless you are able to assemble easily attaching one end to the next. Does the weight include the connector? Rocky & Sheri Rhoades '01 Volvo 770 2016 DRV Mobile Suites, HoustonHERO Makers Ministry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmzero Posted April 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 I do not know about the newest of the smarts, but on all the other ones the inside of the front tires to the outside of the rear tires is 10 inches. If needed, I could load using a 9 inch ramp, but would rather not. Very good point. How wide are your ramps now? "Willy Mammoth" - Volvo 730, Sold Heartland Cyclone 4000 Toy HaulerT-Minus 26 years and counting to being a full timer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 I would go wider though. Mind of matter when you're driving up the ramps. When the tire is as wide as the ramp folks thing their gonna fall off or something. Alie & Jim + 8 paws 2017 DRV Memphis BART- 1998 Volvo 610 Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmzero Posted April 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 Once you install the connectors you will still have to lift the 88 lb ramp into place unless you are able to assemble easily attaching one end to the next. Does the weight include the connector? Technically, I would only be lifting one section of the ramp, as the other section could still be inside the ramp cavity while I am assembling. This also allows for easy on/off driving as the ramps will be completely reversible. Once assembled, I would only be lifting one end of the ramp to align it. "Willy Mammoth" - Volvo 730, Sold Heartland Cyclone 4000 Toy HaulerT-Minus 26 years and counting to being a full timer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmzero Posted April 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 I would go wider though. Mind of matter when you're driving up the ramps. When the tire is as wide as the ramp folks thing their gonna fall off or something. I have an idea! I'll be back with more screenshots. "Willy Mammoth" - Volvo 730, Sold Heartland Cyclone 4000 Toy HaulerT-Minus 26 years and counting to being a full timer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HERO Maker Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 Very good point. How wide are your ramps now? 12 inches. Rocky & Sheri Rhoades '01 Volvo 770 2016 DRV Mobile Suites, HoustonHERO Makers Ministry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmzero Posted April 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 I have an idea! I'll be back with more screenshots. I could add an extension to one side of the ramps. A 2" extension is pretty easy to do and should still be very structural when welded in. That would bring them to 11". View High Resolution Photo View High Resolution Photo "Willy Mammoth" - Volvo 730, Sold Heartland Cyclone 4000 Toy HaulerT-Minus 26 years and counting to being a full timer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 Have you had these cut yet? Otherwise, I'd just make them wider from the beginning. Alie & Jim + 8 paws 2017 DRV Memphis BART- 1998 Volvo 610 Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmzero Posted April 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 Have you had these cut yet? Otherwise, I'd just make them wider from the beginning. No, I have not. They cannot be wider to fit where I want them to fit. At 9" wide (the extension doesn't count since it would sit on top of the other ramp), they can sit side by side where the current ramps live. View High Resolution Photo "Willy Mammoth" - Volvo 730, Sold Heartland Cyclone 4000 Toy HaulerT-Minus 26 years and counting to being a full timer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Mayer Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 12" is the minimum in my mind. The 11" "might" work, but the 12" pushes things if you do not get them exactly parallel. But that is up to the user to get them right. I've almost come off mine once when I neglected to ensure parallel.....they moved after I set them up, somehow. But that is a "performance" problem associated with the user (me). In my case it won't happen again. Other than that, as long as I don't have to "handle" more than 50 lbs, I'm good with the design. Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member Living on the road since 2000PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail 2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it) 2022 New Horizons 43' 5er 2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units 2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck -------------------------------------------------------------------------See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar powerwww.jackdanmayer.com Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmzero Posted April 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 12" is the minimum in my mind. The 11" "might" work, but the 12" pushes things if you do not get them exactly parallel. But that is up to the user to get them right. I've almost come off mine once when I neglected to ensure parallel.....they moved after I set them up, somehow. But that is a "performance" problem associated with the user (me). In my case it won't happen again. Other than that, as long as I don't have to "handle" more than 50 lbs, I'm good with the design. The mounting system for these ramps ensures that they are always parallel. It's more of a pain to get them connected this way, but it's a much safer connection. I'm confined to 9" outside to outside on the main runners. A 3" extension is definitely possible, but that extra inch (compared to a 2" extension) isn't really doing much. If the car is out of angle enough to where that's a problem, the driver/winch operator should backup and recenter. "Willy Mammoth" - Volvo 730, Sold Heartland Cyclone 4000 Toy HaulerT-Minus 26 years and counting to being a full timer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Mayer Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 A 3" extension is definitely possible, but that extra inch (compared to a 2" extension) isn't really doing much. If the car is out of angle enough to where that's a problem, the driver/winch operator should backup and recenter. Agreed.... So the 11" should work.....at least for a smart. Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member Living on the road since 2000PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail 2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it) 2022 New Horizons 43' 5er 2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units 2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck -------------------------------------------------------------------------See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar powerwww.jackdanmayer.com Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dollytrolley Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 Zero, At your age your eyesight is likely that of a hawk, your hand is as steady as a safecracker so you could likely get by with 6" wide ramps but us old geezers look at ramps that are 14 FEET long and we imagine that we could wonder off the ramp before we get to the half joint.... My ramps are the exact opposite of your ramps........12 inches wide X 9 feet long X 5 inch thick old growth Douglas Fir and indeed I did stress test the ramps ...... At 18,000 lbs the ramps have no sag whatsoever with the Dollytrolley drivers backed up on them...... At 9 feet long they are somewhat steep for civilized rigs to drive up into the Dolly-garage but the Samaria and the Honda quad don't notice the angle at all .......the full size Blazer is close at the break-over point and of course it would be too dumb to try a Smart on these.... Weight......hum mm.....have yet to find a set of scales big enough to weigh these beams but being a geezer I just use the hand truck we carry in the garage and only pick up one end up at a time so it's not bad at all..... Sure is handy to have a set of ramps the can elevate the Dollytrolley and then safety with a pair of 12 ton jack stands......sorta a hillbilly HDT-Lift........ IF you get your TWO hours of sleep the night before you drive up the ramps you'll be fine.......trust me at your hyper rate of building you won't be a geezer for a long time.....maybe several months.... Your projects make my day.......don't get too much sleep....... Drive on.......(Don't wonder off the......ramps) 97 Freightshaker Century Cummins M11-370 / 1350 /10 spd / 3:08 /tandem/ 20ft Garage/ 30 ft Curtis Dune toybox with a removable horse-haul-module to transport Dolly-The-Painthorse to horse camps and trail heads all over the Western U S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmzero Posted April 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 Here's what I'm thinking for connecting to the truck. There will be two receiver tubes sticking out of the receivers on the side of the bed. There will be a 1" steel tube that spans the two receiver tubes. Each receiver tube is directly under a tire of the Smart. The ramps will hook over the tube. Then, the keeper will hook under the tube and pin into place, creating a positive latch for the ramps, both up and down. Side to side movement will be controlled by OD tube clamps if necessary. The ramps will be confined by the receiver tubes already, but could move slightly from side to side, hence the OD tube clamps. The hooks will pin into either end of the ramp, whichever is most convenient for load/unload. With keeper open. View High Resolution Photo With keeper pinned. View High Resolution Photo "Willy Mammoth" - Volvo 730, Sold Heartland Cyclone 4000 Toy HaulerT-Minus 26 years and counting to being a full timer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
budeneighe Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 I don't see much "grip" in the surface. Even on my BB II ramps, if they are wet, I can get some tire slippage. This is very important because loading/unloading with the ramps perfectly level to each other is pretty rare. A very slight elevation of one side combined with a slip and the tire moves sideways before it moves up or down the ramp. The narrower the ramp the bigger this issue is. I have loaded/unloaded with the truck and the ramps on the exact same plane but the whole plane was tilted towards the front of the truck. Even with no slippage, the Smart "drifted" across the ramps as it went up and down. Down is the bigger problem because if it starts to go off, you cannot just pull up and with narrower ramps there is no possibility of angling the front wheels to guide it back in line. Winchers have a little choice in this but not much. If it starts to go sideways a winch can't help. That is when a wider ramp is really important. RVBuddys Journal Our progress into full-timing.Budd & Merrily ===-> SKP# 088936 Other Websites:---> Hub of all my blogsClifford - 2000 VNL64T770 :: DakotR - 1999 C40KS King of the Road :: $PRITE - 2013 Smart Passion w/cruise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sclord2002 Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 Brett, my "erector set" ramps are 2 pieces per side, 14 inches wide and approximately 15 feet long. I store 2 pieces, side by side under the Smart and 2 pieces stacked, in front of the tanks, below the frame, between the fairings. Yes, my 2 piece ramps are inconvenient but they do the job and i don't worry about scraping the bottom on break over or the valance when it transitions to the ground. I, personally would not want to go less than my 14 inches width but that is just me. I am looking forward to talking with you at the ECR. BTW, I am a big fan of yours and love to follow the projects you come up with. My BND [bar Napkin Design] skills don't hold a candle to your CAD skills but I'm an old timer and have fairly severe DT [Debilitating Technophobia]. See you at the ECR. Charlie Don't ever tell a soldier that he doesn't understand the cost of war. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randyretired Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 I load a Subaru and a RZR. I started with 11" ramps but changed to 14" and I sure do like these better. Never has the car missed the ramps but the 11" ramps made me very nervous as everything needed to be nearly perfect. If the loading area had a slope or the car and ramp alignment wasn't nearly perfect it could be disasterous. If I were to do it again my ramps would be 15 to 16 inches wide. Randy 2001 Volvo VNL 42 Cummins ISX Autoshift Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmzero Posted April 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2016 Based on overwhelming feedback from everyone here, I'm going to figure out a way to get 14" wide ramps in the ramp storage compartment. It will take some redesign, but should be worth it in the long run. "Willy Mammoth" - Volvo 730, Sold Heartland Cyclone 4000 Toy HaulerT-Minus 26 years and counting to being a full timer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmzero Posted April 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2016 Brett, my "erector set" ramps are 2 pieces per side, 14 inches wide and approximately 15 feet long. I store 2 pieces, side by side under the Smart and 2 pieces stacked, in front of the tanks, below the frame, between the fairings. Yes, my 2 piece ramps are inconvenient but they do the job and i don't worry about scraping the bottom on break over or the valance when it transitions to the ground. I, personally would not want to go less than my 14 inches width but that is just me. I am looking forward to talking with you at the ECR. BTW, I am a big fan of yours and love to follow the projects you come up with. My BND [bar Napkin Design] skills don't hold a candle to your CAD skills but I'm an old timer and have fairly severe DT [Debilitating Technophobia]. See you at the ECR. Charlie Thanks for the feedback, Charlie, and the compliments. "Willy Mammoth" - Volvo 730, Sold Heartland Cyclone 4000 Toy HaulerT-Minus 26 years and counting to being a full timer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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