Ronbo Posted March 29, 2016 Report Share Posted March 29, 2016 I rebuilt my disk brake calipers today, yah me. I pulled the pin on the break away switch to activate the master cylinder to bleed the brakes. No noise came forth. I checked voltage at the breaker and then stuck my probe in the hole to check voltage at the contacts. It started working as long as I had something conductive stuck in there. After the first two it worked properly. I believe the contacts had some corrosion on them since the switch is in the weather and after a couple tomes it burnt through the corrosion. This is not something that has been on my routine check list. It is now. I would recommend everyone check your routinely. I don't want a 21,000 lb fifth wheel chasing me down the hiway if it breaks loose. I want it to stop so I can get away. This switch is not that old so age is not a factor. No use is the factor. Ron C. 2013 Dynamax Trilogy 3850 D3 2000 Kenworth T2000 Optimus Prime Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim & Wilma Posted March 29, 2016 Report Share Posted March 29, 2016 Good catch and good advice. While at it, I'll probably spray the contacts with Boeshield. Jim & Wilma 2006 Travel Supreme 36RLQSO 2009 Volvo VNL730, D13, I-shift, ET, Herrin Hauler bed, "Ruby" 2017 Smart Class of 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockintom Posted March 29, 2016 Report Share Posted March 29, 2016 I posted the same info on another forum. The switch is very cheap and a weak link in my opinion. I used a point file to clean contacts and added a bit of dielectric grease to the points to hopefully keep the moisture away and avoid the same situation. It gets checked for operation on every hook up now. Just sayin' rockin' '12 Excel Limitied 33ft GKE Full Timing '14 Chev 3500 CC DRW D/A named Bullet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted March 29, 2016 Report Share Posted March 29, 2016 The switch is very cheap and a weak link in my opinion. I used a point file to clean contacts and added a bit of dielectric grease to the points to hopefully keep the moisture away and avoid the same situation. It gets checked for operation on every hook up now. I absolutely agree with this statement! The brake-away switch is usually overlooked until the worst happens. Check that break-away switch! Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fulltimer51 Posted March 29, 2016 Report Share Posted March 29, 2016 Somewhat related question: Do 5th wheels "ever" come loose going down the road where brakes would be needed to keep the trailer from running away? George2011 F350 6.7PSD CC 4X4 DRW Lariate2015 Mobile Suites 41 RSSB4 5th Wheel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronbo Posted March 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2016 I suppose it could happen. Usually it is not hitched right and comes loose before you hit the roadway Ron C. 2013 Dynamax Trilogy 3850 D3 2000 Kenworth T2000 Optimus Prime Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 Most breakaway situations result from equipment failure or operator error. They are not common, but it is an experience that most of us would rather miss. Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdickinson Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 Testing the break away switch is part of the Precheck. Good way to do the tug test anyway to make sure jaws are locked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fulltimer51 Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 Testing the break away switch is part of the Precheck. Good way to do the tug test anyway to make sure jaws are locked. I did recently find I had a bad brake switch and I have replaced it, but unlike the pull test, I cant say that testing the brake switch is a part of my routine. I have read more about damage and problems with the switch causing brakes to be applied than any thing else related to the function of the switch. George2011 F350 6.7PSD CC 4X4 DRW Lariate2015 Mobile Suites 41 RSSB4 5th Wheel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 Remember that the breakaway switch is not unique to the fifth wheel but should be used and also tested from time to time with every type of trailer or towed vehicle. The only failure that I have had with one was a corroded one that I accidentally discovered was not closing to engage the brake. I did have one incident towing a CR-V behind the motorhome that I suddenly felt the brake lock on the CR-V as I was turning onto the road. I had the breakaway cable routed wrong and it hooked, pulling the switch. But with a good brake setup, you should know immediately if it should close. Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
57becky Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 I would recommend that dielectric grease not be used to coat the contacts in a break away switch, or anything else working at 12 volts. Dielectric is an insulating grease, not a conductive grease, and at 12 volts, it can prevent electric current flow. There are readily available conductive greases available at many auto parts stores and for example, on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/Bachmann-Trains-Lube-Conductive-Contact/dp/B000BQ0904/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1459393615&sr=8-3&keywords=conductive+lubricant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 I would recommend that dielectric grease not be used to coat the contacts in a break away switch, or anything else working at 12 volts. The other negative issue with any grease is that they tend to collect dirt and grit. I do not use them in locations subject to contamination. Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdickinson Posted April 2, 2016 Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 I did recently find I had a bad brake switch and I have replaced it, but unlike the pull test, I cant say that testing the brake switch is a part of my routine. I have read more about damage and problems with the switch causing brakes to be applied than any thing else related to the function of the switch. They are plastic and I'm inclined to agree....maybe check it every few tines you hook up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockintom Posted April 2, 2016 Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 I hear you guys on the dielectric grease and agree. The only reason I used it there was trying to keep out the elements - mainly moisture which can caused the corrosion and thus high resistance. We use dielectric grease alot in automotive, especially for terminal connection junctions. Again not to aid in conduction but weather proofing. Kirk, the plunger of the brake switch on my rig has an O ring on it in attempt to "weatherproof", but clearly that didn't work. That cheap switch has many areas the elements can get to it. I'm not worried about dirt getting inside the switch as it appears only air can get in, but I doubt much grit can get in. I'll keep a watch and update if I find out any issues as time goes on. rockin' '12 Excel Limitied 33ft GKE Full Timing '14 Chev 3500 CC DRW D/A named Bullet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skp51443 Posted April 2, 2016 Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 Something you can do when checking the break-away switch is to take a compass to each wheel and check to see that the magnet in each brake is pulling enough power to deflect the needle as you move the compass closer to it. We started doing that after we found a couple broken brake wires, the pull test still seemed good but not all the wheels were actually providing any braking. Having the switch activate in an emergency is pretty rare, most of the situations where the hitch fails to hold the pin will result in the trailer falling on the bed and staying there, held by the tailgate, until you stop. If you have no tailgate or a really weak tailgate the pin wouldn't be caught and held by it and falling to the ground would be more likely. In the really rare case where the fiver is pulled off the bed (brake controller set really high and no tailgate) and falls to the ground then the brakes would serve to slow the fiver although the landing legs dragging on the pavement are going to do fairly well on their own. I don't recall ever even hearing about a fiver actuating the emergency brake as a result of the hitch not holding. I'd think it would be similarly rare on a pull trailer or toad unless the safety chains failed. First rule of computer consulting: Sell a customer a Linux computer and you'll eat for a day. Sell a customer a Windows computer and you'll eat for a lifetime. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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