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Gen 1 truck shock's ?'s


alan0043

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Hi Everyone,

 

I am replacing the front shock's on a '98 VNL 420 or a gen 1 truck. My question is. Does the tubing or spacer that goes thru the top and bottom of the shock get pressed out ? I have seen pictures of replacement shocks without the tube. I have also seen a picture with a shock that has the tube on top and bottom. This shock is a different part number then the first shock that I was talking about. The Volvo part # on my truck is 8078195. It crosses over to Monroe # 65494. This Monroe shock has no tubing or spacer in any pictures that I have seen. Some how I came across another Monroe shock with part # 65130. This shock was pictured with the spacer. Now for the confusion, which part # to use.

 

For the people that replaced their front shocks on a gen 1 truck what part # did you use ? Who gave you the best deal ? Has anybody used the Stengel Bros. for parts ?

 

Thank you for any help,

Al

2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger "
  Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood "
    2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog "
 

 

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Al,

 

I think RandyA used Stengel for his shocks. There should definitely be a metal sleeve running through the rubber bushing. I'd be surprised if you ended up getting shocks without it already there.

45' 2004 Showhauler -- VNL300, ISX, FreedomLine -- RVnerds.com -- where I've started to write about what I'm up to

Headlight and Fog Light Upgrades http://deepspacelighting.com

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Al,

 

I think RandyA used Stengel for his shocks. There should definitely be a metal sleeve running through the rubber bushing. I'd be surprised if you ended up getting shocks without it already there.

 

I agree. Knowing website product photos and data the way I do, my suspicion would be that they're using the same photo for multiple shocks. I bet all of the correct shocks for your truck will have the spacer in them even if the photos online do not show that.

 

I purchased the first set of shocks on my truck from a local TruckPro. I was able to compare to the old shocks I took off to make sure they were right before I bought them.

"Willy Mammoth" - Volvo 730, Sold

Heartland Cyclone 4000 Toy Hauler
T-Minus 26 years and counting to being a full timer.

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I just received the Monroe 65494, they do have the spacer. Have not got them installed but they look the same as the shocks that are on the truck now. I have been spraying with half transmission fluid and half acetone hoping that will help with the removal. They were 62.88 on Prime which is free two shipping. Also easy to return if they were wrong. About the best price I found.

">9ed2381e-e012-485f-924a-b1f342a69abc.jpg

 

2001 610 Volvo -Volvo power 465HP/1650 -autoshift
2009 Smart Passion / cross loaded on Volvo
2014.5 Mobile Suite 41 RSSB4

VOLUNTEER CHRISTIAN BUILDERS

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Hi Guys,

 

Thanks for the info. Of the four bolts that hold the shocks, I have three out. It always figures there is always one bolts that will cause all kinds of problems. It is the bottom bolt on the drivers side. The impact gun has not been any help or a large hammer. It looks like the touches come out to play. It think the problem is that the bolt is rusted to the spacer. The nut on the back side is also off. I won't be able to work on the truck till the weekend because of the weather. Right now the bolt has been sprayed with PB blaster on both ends. I can remember the pain in the @ss the rear shocks were.

 

Al

2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger "
  Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood "
    2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog "
 

 

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Al,

 

You're not the first to run into that. Mine were easy, but I know of several here that have not been able to get the bolts out with non-destructive means. Thinking out loud--I wonder if dielectric grease on the bolt going back in would help prevent the moisture-causing rust in there? I'm sure none in this crowd will probably need to replace shocks a second time, but I can't see how it would hurt.

 

The same shock (Monroe 65494) went on my truck (even though I have a 14,600lb front axle). I also bought from Amazon (link here: http://amzn.to/1LFWvnX ), and you'll notice in the picture that the spacer is included.

45' 2004 Showhauler -- VNL300, ISX, FreedomLine -- RVnerds.com -- where I've started to write about what I'm up to

Headlight and Fog Light Upgrades http://deepspacelighting.com

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Rather than use a dielectric grease you would be farther ahead to use some never seize. I have taken bolts apart that have had some never seize on them that were used outside at a refinery and they came right out after being in place for over 15 years.

 

I caught a case of the Never Seize once. It's highly contagious. You'll be wiping it off of everything within a 5 mile radius for days, but Mntom is right. That's what you should use when going back together with the shock bolts. Loctite now makes it in a stick that is a little cleaner to use than the brush, but not by much.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37616-Copper-Anti-Seize-20-gram/dp/B0029SZIUI

 

http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37617-Silver-Grade-Anti-Seize-20-gram/dp/B0053ZS1Z8/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1PMAMEQATNY4V1P9M55Z

"Willy Mammoth" - Volvo 730, Sold

Heartland Cyclone 4000 Toy Hauler
T-Minus 26 years and counting to being a full timer.

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Hi Everyone,

 

I have some answers for my own questions. Maybe someone had the same questions as me. My shocks arrived yesterday. I just ordered them on Wednesday from the Stengel Bros. They had the best price at the time. The spacer is part of the new shocks. The part # 65494 replaces the old part # 65130. These numbers are for Monroe shocks. Now I need the weather to co-operate. One more bolt to come out. I think this is going to be a job for the gas wrench.

 

Thank Everyone for your help,

Al

2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger "
  Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood "
    2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog "
 

 

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Replaced the front shocks today with the Monroe 65494. All went well and did not have to use the fire wrench. Had sprayed several times with the mixture of acetone and auto transmission fluid, mixed half and half. Those yellow rascals sure are pretty. Especially after they are installed.

">9ed2381e-e012-485f-924a-b1f342a69abc.jpg

 

2001 610 Volvo -Volvo power 465HP/1650 -autoshift
2009 Smart Passion / cross loaded on Volvo
2014.5 Mobile Suite 41 RSSB4

VOLUNTEER CHRISTIAN BUILDERS

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Al,

 

How did you decide your shocks needed replacing? On a car used to just push a fender down, let it go and see how many oscillations occurred. How do you tell on a semi?

2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift

Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding"

2017 DRV 39DBRS3

2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty"

 

"Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!"

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I just changed mine last year, don't know how long they had been on there. The old ones were worn out. I could compress them very easily and they had no rebound at all.

I guess you could always take one off and check the rebound yourself.

Another thing to add to the ECR "project" list!

The Monroe part number for my 2005 780 front shock was a 65497.

 

Scott

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I just changed mine last year, don't know how long they had been on there. The old ones were worn out. I could compress them very easily and they had no rebound at all.

I guess you could always take one off and check the rebound yourself.

Another thing to add to the ECR "project" list!

The Monroe part number for my 2005 780 front shock was a 65497.

Scott

Thanks Scott. Bet my 2006 780 would be same part number. Did have them checked when I had my kingpin bushings replaced few years ago and they said were ok but small shop and pretty busy so got the impression they really didn't want to mess with them.

2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift

Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding"

2017 DRV 39DBRS3

2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty"

 

"Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!"

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Hi Everyone,

 

Some how my reply never got posted. I made a reply to Carl some time around 9:00am this morning. The reply is not there. I will try to remember what I said at a later date. I had a note that there was a server problem on my end at that time. Anyone else ever have a server problem ? The problem lasted for about 8 hours on my end.

 

Al

2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger "
  Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood "
    2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog "
 

 

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Yes, the server was down for much of the day, making the Forums unavailable. You must have been posting when it crashed. For some reason, the database seems to like to crash on the weekends.

Phil

 

2002 Teton Royal Aspen

2003 Kenworth T2000 - Cat C12 380/430 1450/1650, FreedomLine, 3.36 - TOTO . . . he's not in Kansas anymore.

ET Air Hitch

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Glad you got that bolt loose using Acetone and Transmission fluid. The only thing I have found better but more expensive is a product called KROIL. Usually not available locally like PB or WD40 have to order it. I think most on here know about all this stuff but thought would pass on.

2019 Thor Chateau 28E on a Ford E450 chassis. Maybe awhile but will get a new picture forgive one up there it is my old rig.

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Al,

 

How did you decide your shocks needed replacing? On a car used to just push a fender down, let it go and see how many oscillations occurred. How do you tell on a semi?

 

Hi Carl,

 

I'll see if I can try this again. You asked me how I know the front shocks were bad. It started at the back of the truck. I looked at the rear shocks and the top bushings had pieces missing out of them. So I decided to replace the rear shocks. That is a story for the camp fire. lol. I also replaced the rear air bags at the time. I had a feeling the rear shocks were original to the truck because the shocks had red paint on them. The frame of the truck was painted red when it was built. I thought if I replaced the rear shocks why not replace the front shocks. The front shocks also had red paint on them. That was a clue that they were original to the truck. I got the last bolt out with the help of the gas wrench. I had just enough gas to get the job done. The front shocks have no rebound to them at all.

 

Al

2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger "
  Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood "
    2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog "
 

 

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Carl,

 

In my case I was able to see that they were a Volvo shock, and made the assumption that probably meant they were original. These things aren't much different than the shock on a car--100K miles or so and they're probably due. But what I'd do is just take out one bolt on one of them and see how easy it is to move by hand. You can just open the hood to get to them--no need to take a wheel off or anything. It would be easy enough to compare to another truck with new shocks at the ECR if you weren't sure. I can say it was money extremely well spent--the change in ride quality (even though the old shocks only had 220K miles on them) was significant.

45' 2004 Showhauler -- VNL300, ISX, FreedomLine -- RVnerds.com -- where I've started to write about what I'm up to

Headlight and Fog Light Upgrades http://deepspacelighting.com

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Here is the "shock rule".

 

Get a new-to-you truck: New front and rear shocks and new cab shocks. You won't regret it.

Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member
Living on the road since 2000

PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail
2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it)
2022 New Horizons 43' 5er
2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 
2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU
No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units
2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck
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