Greg112 Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 I'm looking at teeing into my range gas line for a heater where there is a conveniently located gas hose line going into the stove line. What is the likely size of that fitting? RV parts place says 3/8 is common. Looks bigger than that to me (1/2? 3/4?) but I'm not real good at that kind of estimation (as multiple trips to the store for most projects testify). I don't really want to break down the connection unless I've got the right part in hand. 40 ft motor home. Atwood range - Atwood by the way is no help - manual says the part where the line comes in is a brass fitting size not specified. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devilishjim Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 I did the same thing to mine and it was 3/8" fittings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarome Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 I did the same thing to mine and it was 3/8" fittings X2. 3/8" is pretty much standard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgiaHybrid Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 3/8 Fittings look bigger than a 1/2". 3/8 is the inside diameter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimalberta Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 Mine were 3/8" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscarvan Posted January 13, 2016 Report Share Posted January 13, 2016 3/8" That said, at the risk of overstepping my boundaries, I sense that you are not experienced with gas plumbing.... PLEASE don't mess with it unless you know what you're doing. BOOM is bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Double-Trouble Posted January 13, 2016 Report Share Posted January 13, 2016 I'd get a lot more done if each project didn't include 2-5 trips to Home Depot. Girlfriend says I do it on purpose because I'm addicted to Home depot. LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray,IN Posted January 15, 2016 Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 3/8" That said, at the risk of overstepping my boundaries, I sense that you are not experienced with gas plumbing.... PLEASE don't mess with it unless you know what you're doing. BOOM is bad. Sage advice-for everyone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barbaraok Posted January 15, 2016 Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 I'd get a lot more done if each project didn't include 2-5 trips to Home Depot. Girlfriend says I do it on purpose because I'm addicted to Home depot. LOL I thought all projects required at least two trips to HD/Lowes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarome Posted January 15, 2016 Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 I thought all projects required at least two trips to HD/Lowes? 2 trips?? Yeah... riiiight! Next you'll be trying to tell us you don't even keep duct tape in the house. You must be doing 'something' wrong if it only takes you 2 trips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscarvan Posted January 15, 2016 Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 Electrical is 2. Plumbing is 3-5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl2591 Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 a flare "Tee", couple of 3/8 flare nuts, good short radius tubing cutter, flaring tool and a length of 3/8 soft copper and you are in business.. get the flare nut snug tight but don't over tighten them.. We run into that all the time, overtightening can crack the nut creating a leak over time. after a month or so check it one last time with soap or a soapy liquid for leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dranoel Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 Just added a line for Mr Heater off the 3/8" copper stove supply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devilishjim Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 a flare "Tee", couple of 3/8 flare nuts, good short radius tubing cutter, flaring tool and a length of 3/8 soft copper and you are in business.. get the flare nut snug tight but don't over tighten them.. We run into that all the time, overtightening can crack the nut creating a leak over time. after a month or so check it one last time with soap or a soapy liquid for leaks. A tee and a 3/8" hose cut to the right length with proper fittings put on will eliminate all of the above tools Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjhunter01 Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 Just added a line for Mr Heater off the 3/8" copper stove supply. How did you bypass the regulator on Mr Heater? The gas line feeding your stove is already pressure reduced from your bottle regulator and a Mr Heater space heater has a built in regulator. Is the Mr Heater producing full heat properly? Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dranoel Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 gjhunter01: Mr. Heater Big Buddy has an unregulated quick connect, which I'm using, in addition to two built-in regulators for small bottle propane. It works very well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjhunter01 Posted February 17, 2016 Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 Looks like Dranoel has a good set up. Hopefully the OP is not double regulating his gas to his new heater. Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smitty77_7 Posted February 17, 2016 Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 As pointed out all ready, unless you feel you have the the experience, be sure to run what you are doing by someone that does... We had a very scary experience with our coach. A 'certified tech', added spliced a line into our refrigerator LP line. Unfortunately he used a 'low pressure' quick release female coupling, of us to add our male line hose that feeds our Mr Heater. The fist time we tried it, and then removed the male end, the female end would not close. We vented high pressure LP into the coach until I could get outside and turn off the main tanks LP valve. The place I worked with to correct this. Made a point of showing me the old coupling, to the the one that should have been used to handle high pressure. They then insisted that I spend another I think it was $6-8 above the cost of just a female high pressure LP quick connect, and use one that has a 1/4 turn 'turn off' valve in front of the quick disconnect. It was the only way they would do it, and even then, I had to sign a separate part of the receipt acknowledging I released the repair facility of any responsibilities - as they really did not like adding a LP line into the coach, when they knew it was going to be used for a non vented heater... (And to be fair, we spent a good 30-45 mins looking for a suitable wall for a vented to the outside heater. One that drew in air from outside, and exhausted burned fumes to the outside. I would have preferred this, and would have spent the funds to do this. Had not suitable location to fit such a heater in our coach.). OP - Not saying not to do this, but do agree to be sure you are comfortable in what you are doing! Best, Smitty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dontrump Posted February 17, 2016 Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 As pointed out all ready, unless you feel you have the the experience, be sure to run what you are doing by someone that does... We had a very scary experience with our coach. A 'certified tech', added spliced a line into our refrigerator LP line. Unfortunately he used a 'low pressure' quick release female coupling, of us to add our male line hose that feeds our Mr Heater. The fist time we tried it, and then removed the male end, the female end would not close. We vented high pressure LP into the coach until I could get outside and turn off the main tanks LP valve. The place I worked with to correct this. Made a point of showing me the old coupling, to the the one that should have been used to handle high pressure. They then insisted that I spend another I think it was $6-8 above the cost of just a female high pressure LP quick connect, and use one that has a 1/4 turn 'turn off' valve in front of the quick disconnect. It was the only way they would do it, and even then, I had to sign a separate part of the receipt acknowledging I released the repair facility of any responsibilities - as they really did not like adding a LP line into the coach, when they knew it was going to be used for a non vented heater... (And to be fair, we spent a good 30-45 mins looking for a suitable wall for a vented to the outside heater. One that drew in air from outside, and exhausted burned fumes to the outside. I would have preferred this, and would have spent the funds to do this. Had not suitable location to fit such a heater in our coach.). OP - Not saying not to do this, but do agree to be sure you are comfortable in what you are doing! Best, Smitty the LPG fridge line is NOT high pressure.Not saying the correct coupler was used in this case just telling you did not have high pressure LPG in the fridge line you vented(leaked) low pressure LPG although still dangerous as hell as far as heater goes? what if you left all the burners burning on your stove for a couple hours? same effect !! (as a non vented heater situation) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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