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shop air to air up truck?


Fuzz

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Had occasion to have the truck towed to repair facility.When the wrecker showed up I helped/watched him hook it up.

Asked If he had the bolts to cage the brake cans..Instead he run an airhose from his wrecker to the hose outlet I use for air hose.I thought that was neat...Today looking for leaks I thought I would use that to air it up.Didn't work...What the devil am I missing...I can use air from this connection so it seems it would work in reverse.It did for him with wwrecker.Maybe he did something else I didn't catch...Thought I would ask..Thanks

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To piggy back on the trailer valve.... Some trucks require a minimum air pressure (usually 60-65 psi) before that valve will "open". You might also add a schrader valve to your air governor to add air to your system. Just remember on some trucks this way of adding air bypasses your air dryer so you need to be careful your "shop" air is clean and moisture free.

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Thanks all,There is a Schrader valve on the compressor governor.Wasn't sure what it was for..Tried the trailer valve in cockpit but it won't stay in.Maybe I have other problems.Shop air is small compressor compared to some,but it shows 110lbs on gauge....Will try Schrader valve tomorrow.Starting to cool off and still some snow around truck..Again thanks for the replies....

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I've done both. With the air for the trailer, holding the red valve in a bit of time (30-45 seconds) or with the Schrader valve on the governor, just let her run. The trailer connection requires less air I think because it only fills 1/2 of the system, the rear and 1/3 of the tanks (rear and not the "wet" tank or the front tank). Internal check valves keep the rest empty.

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Thanks again all...I held the button In and started getting some pressure in the R up to about 90...I think now my problem is my garage air compressor..Pressure will build up to 110 but no volume..looks like maybe a 15-20 lb tank.It can't keep up after about 80-90#'s.Have another compressor I will try...but the big thing Is the suggestions worked..Had to hold the Trailer knob in quite a bit longer than I was..

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Check you tank gauges. In my case when back feeding the trailer supply line (red) only the rear tank is pressurized, not the front tank.

 

In my case when I was towed everything that needed air for towing was fed off the rear tank. So he did not have to cage the rear brakes. The tow driver carried a double male shop air fitting and I already had the female quick release on the supply hose connection on the rear of the cab. So getting air back to the system was quick and easy (well for at least the items off the rear tank). I also still had about 80# of pressure in both front/rear tanks before hooking up to his air.

 

I have also considered adding a ball valve with a quick release fitting on the end so that I can add air the truck system via the shop air. It would be nice in the winter months to be able to move the truck immediately outside instead of waiting for the air to build enough to move the truck outside. In the summer months the shop doors are all open so it is easy to air the shop out. As already mentioned it will also make it easier to chase down some minor air leaks.

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Well thanks again lottsa good info..It will leak down to O in about 2hrs..So will keep looking.Also,both gauges go down together,does this indicate a valve inop?Thought there was a valve on one of the tanks that kept pressure or no?

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