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Leaky sewer fittings


mrschwarz

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I am nearly at the end of my rope. I am trying to make a leak proof sewer connection on my coach. One of the problems is the way Winnie designed the sewer connection. They decided to rigidly mount the fitting about 3" from the hatch door and about an inch from the bottom of the compartment. It doesn't rotate and many fittings cannot remain connected to it when the door is closed. In addition, they decided to mount the tabs at 45 degrees so I cannot connect a rigid 45 degree elbow. It is set back from the edge just far enough to prevent a rigid 90 degree from being connected. The coach has three tanks; 2 grays and 1 black. Even though I have replaced all of the dump valves, they seep. Because the fitting is rigidly horizontal, liquid runs out whenever I removed the drip cover. I used a drip cover with a garden hose fitting, but because the tabs are mounted at 45 degrees, the garden hose fitting is not at the bottom of the pipe, but a quarter of the way around, so liquid still runs out when I remove the cover.


The only solution I have found is to connect a two foot length of hose permanently to the fitting. I can then raise it above the top of the rigid fitting so the seepage doesn't run out when I remove the drip cap.


Here's my problem. I haven't been able to find a single fitting that fits the sewer without leaking. I have tried Camco, Valterra, and Blue Line. They leak at both ends. They leak around their swivels. The leak where they are attached to clear adapters. They leak where they connect to the elbow that goes into the in-ground sewer hookup.


I have been RVing for more than 20 years. This is my fourth motor home. I am not a newby and I don't know what to try next. The only thing I can think of in to use non-rotating connectors and somehow fabricate my own gaskets.


Somebody please tell me what I am doing wrong. What is the magic bullet to have a tight, leak free sewer connection? Do I need to rip it all out and redesign it? From what I have seen of the newer models, Winnebago is still using the same basic layout for its 42 footers. I can't believe I am the only one having this problem.


Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Michael

2017 Allegro Bus 45OPP
Cummins ISL 450

Visit us at schwarz.org!

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Likewise, despite new and different brands of slider valves, if I open the cover there always seems to be some slight leakage. I may leave the small hose cap off so any seepage leaks out versus it building up behind the cap. (NOT if you're parked on clean concrete lol) What I've found to help other 3 inch fittings (like 45's or extensions etc) is to coat the flat rubber seal/gasket with plumbers grease. In similar situations where things don't fit well, I've bought some 3 inch black ABS and glue and couplers or Y's etc. and re engineered things. I HATE ANY LEAKS I added a second auxiliary slide valve right after my black tank so with TWO valves closed I get little leakage at the last dump cap.

 

John T

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I also have the 2nd shutoff valve for the black tank... Also try buying a complete unit hose and fittings. The one I got at Walmart even came with plugs for capping the hose. I have found that some fittings do not match different brands

Jim Spence

2000 Dodge 3500 1 ton QC 4x4 dually 5.9 diesel LB

BD exhaust brake, 6 spd manual trans

34CKTS Cedar Creek 5er, Trail-Air hitch

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I use to have a seepage problem . I discovered that my black tank valve was not closing completely . That was due to the cable , connecting the T handle on the control panel to the valve , was not putting enough pressure on the valve push rod , leaving it very slightly open . The position of the valve is such that a straight solid rod from T handle to valve push rod isn't possible .

So , to avoid any major redesigning project , I simply put a slight bend toward the end of a 2 foot piece of 1/2" conduit . That allows me to reach the connector from the cable to the valve push rod . By pushing on that connector , after I've pushed the T handle in as far as it will go , I can easily fully close the valve . No more seepage .

 

As for leakage at connections , I guess I've been lucky in that only when something is a bit cockeyed does the Camco Dual Flush valve leak a little .

I have the dual flush valve added under the OEM end connection . That originally because the in tank flush systems are non functional , but the added valve allows me to partially fill the black tank with grey water . I better quit ... wandering . Sorry .

Goes around , comes around .

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I wish I had room for another valve. I have one with an electric actuator that I use for dumping the gray tanks. There's no room for it in the compartment so I need a short piece of hose to connect it. It has to be leakproof, which I haven't been able to do. I'll be posting some photos later.

Michael

2017 Allegro Bus 45OPP
Cummins ISL 450

Visit us at schwarz.org!

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If you have enough pipe before that last fitting, buy a new fitting. Cut off the old one and glue the new one on at the proper angle.

 

Winnebago seems to have thought of everything. The fitting protrudes about an inch from the last elbow. There's not much room for anything. I can only assume that whoever laid this out has never actually dumped a tank (or the bean counters are holding his family hostage).

Michael

2017 Allegro Bus 45OPP
Cummins ISL 450

Visit us at schwarz.org!

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The lowest paid worker does the sewer connection. He has never used one so has no idea how it works. Just glue the is together in this order and make it look like that

Ron C.

2013 Dynamax Trilogy 3850 D3

2000 Kenworth T2000 Optimus Prime

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