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Removable or Retractable Tie Down


SuiteSuccess

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I have decided to use the Discount Ramps Alumi Loc System to attach my ramps to the truck. I have the 600# D-Rings for wheel strap attachment points which I will be doing away with. (See photo) I need another flush mounted attachment that is minimum of 600#. I have looked at these

http://www.realtruck.com/bull-ring-retractable-tie-downs/?utm_campaign=product_ads&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=829840&productid=829840&gclid=Cj0KEQjw4LaqBRD60pfSn43ZwLQBEiQAJv5FLO6PZafS4H_uFfzIN_G_PVygnN-jf_X0n21skqXdyu0aAokT8P8HAQ But would like something like a drop in eye bolt that would drop in a small round hole, turn 90 degrees and secure after I remove the ramps. I have no way to weld a nut below the bed for a screw in eye bolt. Any suggestions? I want flush mount to keep the ramps completely flat as pictured in the Alumi Loc System.

http://www.amazon.com/Alumi-Loc-Ramp-Attaching-Tailgate-Bracket/dp/B004J77M10

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Thanks for the replies. Darryl, I had considered the keyhole with chain and have kept that as an option. Nigel, I do have a drill press, but a big bimetal hole saw is in the $50 range as that thought had also crossed my mind. My bed has slots cut into it for the tabs but they are far enough from the edge they don't allow the tab on the Big Boy 2 ramps to sit flush and they cant the top at a slight angle which is why I think I barely drag the bottom of the Smart with each load. The Alumi Loc will eliminate those issues. Again thanks.

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If you're dragging, due to the ramp lip riding over the edge of your current tie-downs, the Locking strip will likely make it worse. The strip is thicker than the lip on your ties, and will lift it more, causing a higher point as the car comes forward. Good luck.

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Do you mean the underbelly of the car is catching on the edge of the deck when loading and/or unloading?? This is what is happening to my car. We are going to put another bead of weld in the hinge area between the 2 parts of the ramp, maybe 1/8" to 1/4". This may cause the nose to rub on the ground so a couple of race ramps may be needed for the ground end of the ramps.

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Do you mean the underbelly of the car is catching on the edge of the deck when loading and/or unloading?? This is what is happening to my car. We are going to put another bead of weld in the hinge area between the 2 parts of the ramp, maybe 1/8" to 1/4". This may cause the nose to rub on the ground so a couple of race ramps may be needed for the ground end of the ramps.

Yes Roger the underbelly is rubbing slightly on most loads. I noticed with my present setup the top of my ramps do not set flush and cant a bit adding about an inch in height at the breakover. This is the problem I'm working to solve. Here is a pic where my slots are in the bed but as I stated it doesn't allow the tab to set completely down in that slot. (Pic won't upload). I may have to add height at the foot also.
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I will send my regular e-mail address. Chris and I will be working on the same issue with mine tomorrow if I'm not called into work, and will take a bunch of pics and measurements to demonstrate options. I've cut some wood spacers, 1/8, 1/4 and 3/8 " thick to put in the hinge section of the ramps. This will decrease the initial breakover angle but increase the angle of attack of the nose as it gets closer to the ground. Hence the possible need of race ramps of some size.

 

There is another option which I will explain but pics will make it easier. Slabs of OSB Rim joists from a jobsite. 1.25" thick by 12" wide by 18" long.

 

As you currently winch the car up the ramp, the cars rear wheels get onto the deck, as you keep winching the car backwards the underbelly gets closer to the edge of the deck. Before the underbelly makes contact with the ramp flange, tuck the slab of wood behind the rear wheel. So that would put it between the back wheel and the center of the deck. As the car continues backwards the rear wheel will jump up onto the rim joist and cause the underbelly to rise and miss the ramp. In my case a 3/4" bolt head.

 

 

Not to overlook the obvious but you have remembered to dump the rear suspension haven't you??

 

On edit,

 

I am also putting in some 3" wide, 60" long pces of 1/4" thick plastic/Teflon in the bottom of the ramp storage area. This will make it easier to pull the ramps out. Not able to put Teflon in the top 'cus the screws would come thru the deck. Also the ramp hinge pin is being modified. The non cotter pin end is being cut off and a flat washer welded on. The bent over rod takes up too much room in the compartment which is a bit tight as it is. The other end, cotter pin end is being ground or cut down to make it a little shorter. Again, I will send before and after pics.

 

The nose of the ramps which contact the ground are having a loop of aircraft cable with 8" or so of 1/4" air hose to make a handle to pull the ramps out of the compartment.

 

My wrist are lacking up and down range of motion and cause me problems getting the ramps in and out. Someone jumps in to help and shoves the ramps this way or that and crushes my finger.

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Got the pics...Grabby, good term, that is exactly what it is. And difficult to get a hold of when pulling out. The plastic or poly, whatever it is comes in various thicknesses. I got a pce 12" x 60" It has been cut into 3" wide strips. One under each side of the ramp. Holes will be drilled and countersunk and flathead bolts go down thru poly and bottom of compartment. Were hoping the ramps, sitting on the poly, won't try to bring the back of the poly with it. We have no way of fastening the poly 60" in.

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Roger, if I understand your comment correctly, "The nose of the ramps which contact the ground are having a loop of aircraft cable with 8" or so of 1/4" air hose to make a handle to pull the ramps out of the compartment", try simply loading your ramps into the compartment ramp hinge first, and with the slanted nose on the bottom right there at your compartment door. Makes pulling those out much easier.

 

If I'm not being clear, let me know and I will try and post a pic.

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I do understand, that is the way they are loaded. I'm trying to keep my fingers away from pinch points. Lifting the ramps in and out is a problem 'cus I don't have the flexion and extension of my wrists. Plastic is in now. I will work on ramps tomorrow if not called into work.

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The plastic works ok, need to bevel the back edge of the 3" strips so ramp doesn't catch on it. To decrease the breakover angle we made T shaped spacers and dropped them into the hinge. A 1/16" spacer raises the knuckle of the ramp 1.5" so 3/16" should do.

 

Chis thought the flat bar would be better than a bead of weld because of it being uniformly flat.

 

Dumping the bags didn't make much difference. The car's nose misses the ground by an inch or so.

 

Race ramps may not be needed but a couple of chunks of 2 x 10 might be handy for levelling or chocking tires and wheels or raising ramp if on uneven ground.

 

If not called in to work, pics will be sent tomorrow nite.

 

This seems to be a relatively simple fix, the block under the back wheel is not needed nor are race ramps.

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The plastic works ok, need to bevel the back edge of the 3" strips so ramp doesn't catch on it. To decrease the breakover angle we made T shaped spacers and dropped them into the hinge. A 1/16" spacer raises the knuckle of the ramp 1.5" so 3/16" should do.Chis thought the flat bar would be better than a bead of weld because of it being uniformly flat.Dumping the bags didn't make much difference. The car's nose misses the ground by an inch or so.Race ramps may not be needed but a couple of chunks of 2 x 10 might be handy for levelling or chocking tires and wheels or raising ramp if on uneven ground.If not called in to work, pics will be sent tomorrow nite.This seems to be a relatively simple fix, the block under the back wheel is not needed nor are race ramps.

Thanks, Roger. Will look forward to pics.

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