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If you search Twinslan.net Lockmup, You may find your service document there. Kirk you may want to save this site. Now you also could contact. (. ). Really this name is outside floating around somewhere. When I find it I will post it. Safe Travels, Vern

Great idea for the crime committed Vern

After driving on some ice on I -90 just west of Butt Montana on Tuesday , we are at Nephi Utaw. On I-15 at Mike marker 222. 337 or so miles from Clark county shooting preserve in Las Vegas. Hopefully be there tomorrow night. Vern

Check and see if your outside shower is turned off at the handles. Also when it is not producing heat see if the pump has stoped working for the zone that is calling for heat. What year is your coach. See if you have 105 model pumps

You may have an issue with the sensor for the domestic hot water tripping the heat off. They do that so that when the hot water is used the heat shuts down to save the energy for the water. Just a quick thought. Vern Do the fans still blow air. If they do you may have a pump problem.

If you have trouble with a Atwood water heater, that will ignite, but then the flame goes out. It most likely the little 1/4" screw on top of the burner tube that holds the igniter assembly on to the burner tube. The board is not sensing flame because of it not having a ground for the sense probe. When there is a flame covering the igniter probe and the ground probe it send a signal to the power board that there is a flame. It does this by send a few milivolts to the power board. Loosen the screw and retighten it three times. And then try the water heater. Just a thought,. Vern

What engine do you have. That would help for info. Vern

Yes that is it. I could not get it to copy on this forum. Thank' s. Vern

This company provides rv's for the movie industries for movable living quarters. The were sold to Quixote studios. But they have mid 2000' s Tetons that are remodeled. So if one wants to remodel your RV, this will show how much things can change. Sorry there is direct link but this site will not let me post a direct link. Safe Travels,. Vern

In real world expierence With the power to the fridge disconnected, disconnect wires to the heater, plug the power in and repeat what sequence was making it blow the fuse. See if it does or not blow the fuse. That will determine where the problem is. Board or heating element. But I would bet there is a problem with the element shorting to the side of the heating element . Remove the heating element and look for a swollen area on the element itself. You could check the ohms on the unit. Also check wires to ground But I have seen them be intermittent and really make you think. It can test good but still have its fits and occasionally short out and blow the fuse. If you try and wiggle the element when it is cool and it is stuck or hard to remove that is an indication that it has a problem safe travels,. Vern

That gps thing did it Renee, Keep quite about our plans. Big 5r may find me. And that blank problem has with me may catch up to me. Be nice Big 5r,

Leaving Florida forever. Someone tried to steel our jeep while it was in a well lit area just in front of our 5thweel. So off to Arizona. Vern

We are now hiding in Florida. We may just make an appearance at the Tampa RV show. But we are going to hide for some rest this winter. Safe Travels to all, Vern

Out of the mud. Now at Wheat Montana in Three Forks Montana. Oglala tonight maybe. Vern

I would say that there is a small problem with the single zone thermostats. Not enough for them to do something about them. But as a Dometic dealer I do see that situation occasionally. Had one about two weeks ago. No furnace Sunday am and we are planning something else. Told him to reset and it worked. Safe travels. Vern

Try reprogramming your thermostat. The new style Dometic single zone thermostats need to be reset occasionally. It is in the manual how to do it. Probably reset 4 this year for my business and they all worked properly after being reset. Although yours may be bad. Quick enough to

You might want to test the wheel speed sensors, the abs valves and the communication cables to the rear axle. Check those components before for you spend much money on parts. A few yours ago I fixed one that had that did as yours is functioning. Just a quick thought, Vern

I am thinking the voltage for the manual application is going to be in the neighborhood of 6 vdc. At full hand application. Just thinking back on experience. But could be wrong. Glenn, If you are feeling a jerking symptom. Make sure the king Ping is not loose in the hitch head. Or something else is loose maybe. Have someone watch when you pull forward and apply th only the trailer brakes. Just some things to check. Safe Travels, Vern

I checked the instruction manual for the hays controller and it does have a pendulum for sensing motion. That is probably why you reading are not that high and only changing a small amount. Maybe Darrly with post the operation manual for your controller.As I am not good with computers. Safe Travels, Vern

Just trying to give basic ideas as how to test things. I have a prodigy that controls out triple axle Teton. If the brakes are applied by hand there is more brakeing effect than with the pedal. Without knowing what magnets you have and no experience with your controller I am just giving a general thoughts on how your brakes should work. Safe Travels , Vern

Just my thoughts on electric drum brakes. There should not be 12vdc at the magnet when hooked to a controller. Full voltage is for when the towed vehicle is disconnected from tow vehicle and that is when the brakes get maximum stopping power. As in locking drums tight. If you jack up a wheel off the ground and it will not rotate, it probably getting the voltage it is suppose to be getting. Not full 12vdc voltage. You did state then the brakes did give resistance when moving and applying with controller Also if there is anyway for the controller to sense motion it probably will not pass needed voltage to test the brakes for proper amperage while sitting still. Use full Dc power from the charge line on the cable through a fuse and connect it to the brake wire. That should give correct amps for the brake system for testing. Or just pull the emergency electric brake actuator and test for amperage. As soon as you pull it put it back in just to make sure it will go in. Then test with amp meter for proper operating amps. If you pull the emergency brake actuator and it starts smoking you have a direct short in the system. Yep had that happen at work a time or two. That is why you want to practice putting it back in as soon as you pull it out the first time. Make sure you put emergency connector back in when you are done or you may slide the tires when you leave. Hopefully this will save you some more labor. Just look at it like doing yoga. Safe Travels, Vern

Also check your voltage and amperage with a good meter when the compressor is under load. Early in the am to see what the unit is doing before everyone else has there units running also. Also watch the incoming voltage is at the post Are you on 30 or 50 amp service. Make sure your water heater is not on electric at the same time. The fan motor may need a little lube at the bearings . Then when everyone else is using there a/c unit what is the voltage. If it gets towards 110 volts or lower then the amps will be going up. It probably is your incoming voltage is the problem. Also you could have a wiring connection problem in your RV. I think if it is the compressor it would trip the breaker sooner. It could be two thing together that is your problem. I just looked at your post again. If it was tripping your breaker in twenty minutes or less it may be the compressor. Safe travels, Vern

We are at the North Ranch till about April 1st. With a side trip to Quartzsite tomorrow in just the truck.

We moved our winter location from Brooksville Fl to the Red Barn RV park, acrossefrom Blueberry hill in Bushnell Fl. Will be hear until april first then off to the southwest to look around. If you are in the area stop by for a visit. Safe Travels, Vern