gjhunter01

Try this company, https://www.sasrlink.com/ They hire for temp stocking positions all over the US. One person we knew would boondock in the stores parking lot and work for a couple of days before moving to another city/location. As far as tax goes, if someone is complaining about paying taxes, it's hard to feel sorry for a person that must be making money! Paying taxes to support your country should be a good thing. My wife and I have done very well with the sugarbeet harvest and christmas tree sales. In the last 6 years, those 2 yearly jobs have covered our expenses while volunteering so that we have a zero net drain on our nest egg.

Tire PSI will increase by 1-2 PSI for every 10 F increase in temperature. If you start out with cold tires set at max PSI, and then experience a 100 degree tire temp increase from rolling resistance and ambient temp of the day, your tire PSI will increase 10-20 PSI. If a 10-20 PSI under inflation is bad for tire operation, then it stands to reason that a 10-20 PSI over inflation would be just as bad for any tire.

A year ago my TPMS showed 2 tires had gotten to 130 PSI that started out at 105 PSI, before long, I hit a pot hole and cracked both rims on that side. I learned a lesson the hard way that day and will no longer let my 110 rated PSI rims and tires exceed 125 rolling PSI. On rare occasions, I will even stop and release some air to stay below 125 rolling PSI. This method may be controversial for some people to accept, but it is working for me and I'm getting good even thread wear.

I found the best price on the internet and had the tires shipped to our campground. I took off 2 tires at a time and Walmart charged $10/ea to mount them. For me this was least intrusive method and also gave me good practice to my changing tire skills. Don't forget to swap out your spare tire with the best tire of your removed set. Becareful that your tires are not too over rated or you will have a rough ride. I have a Cameo that weighs in at 17k loaded and I run my Sailun G tires at 5-10 PSI below max based on weigh charts and observed tire wear. Keep in mind your tires will increase 15-25 PSI during travel on a hot day.

I take a 2 finger swipe out of the grease tub and put that onto the palm of my other hand which is enough to pack 1 bearing. Press the bearing down onto the grease 3-4 times until you see grease oozing out of the other side, then move to another part of the bearing and repeat. Ask any auto parts store for their high quality synthetic wheel bearing grease.

Mission Bell RV resort is a nice place, this is our 3rd winter here. They have a motorcycle ride every Thur's AM. http://missionbellrvresort.com/

I agree with Kirk, no contract should be needed. We have also volunteered all over the US and these jobs are suppose to be interesting jobs that we do for fun and experience. If you find yourself in a position of doing a job or hours you don't like, then you are enabling the job to control you. Never be afraid to renegotiate your volunteer job to make it fit your desire, usually this will be a win/win improvement for both parties. The old rules of a career job environment do not apply in a volunteer gig, make the job work for you and have fun, or walk away. I feel that a verbal/hand shake agreement is all that is needed for this line of work unless you need/rely on that particular job. We have never left a volunteer early but at the same time the option is always on the table. We have worked at 2 private campgrounds and did quite one after 2 weeks due to schedule conflicts, but did so on good returnable terms, and paid for our site for the remaining season. It's all about good communication with your employer.

Adding a door window is pretty easy. I got a kit from PPL for about $90 and later seen kits in Middlebury, IN RV stores for $20. Most doors are metal exterior with foam inside. Using a kit with a pattern, just mark out the opening and cut it out using a metal jig saw blade, then install the window (1 hour max job).

We replace our fifth wheel slide out carpet on a regular basis now, almost yearly, since the cost is so little, less than $100. We find carpet remnants at a Home Depot/Lowes that are 6' X 12' that have binding sewn around the edges. I can cut the remnant down the middle and use the old carpet pieces for a pattern, using staples along the back wall and double sided tape on the front edge. The wife loves changing the carpet often and for that price, it's not worth having the carpet steam cleaned.

My calculation is just a guess based on watching others dump, since I don't need to do that chore! It takes most people a min just to get out of the RV over to the dump valves, then they stand there drinking a cup of coffee while waiting for the tanks to drain. It don't look like a fun job from my view point and I don't care to make it part of my routine. Anyway you look at it, I have saved alot of hours not manually dumping waste tanks and there is always the risk of forgetting to dump on schedule and having to make a last minute dash. I also use a couple of gallons of water and 2 dish soap packets to slosh around the black tank on travel days and on the second or third travel day, the tank dump will be clear water. I believe my black waste tank is solid waste free, after 8 years of left open valves. Another false comment is that fecal matter uses more water to dissolve than TP. The dry paper and the glue used in TP manufacturing needs lots of water to dissolve and the poop domes you see in out door toilets are caused from the toilet paper. On the farm, manure was always a slurry unless you added straw or wood chips to firm the manure up. Human waste is no different which is already at a high moisture content compared to dry TP. We don't use extra water when flushing, in fact we make an extra effort to conserve water when flushing by doing quick flushes. I was reluctant to post this observation in my earlier FT years, but now I have the actual results that leaving the valves open when FHU's are available does work and it works well. I'm just passing along observations from my experiment, it is not my goal to challenge other peoples proven methods or to change their ways if they don't want too. I am not the only person that has tried successfully this open method. I do have issues with critics that have never actually tried the open dump valve process, but that is just human nature to criticize something they don't understand!

We just spent Nov in Co at a private RV park and our job was to clean the showers and bathrooms each day which was suppose to take 3 hours, but wife and I could get them all done in 45 min. It really was not a bad job and we would not be against doing it again now that we have tried it.

For the people that are concerned about the TP in the trash smell, they must have never tried it. TP does not smell in the trash any more than garbage in your RV trash can. Besides, if the trash does smell that bad, then it's time to take it out to the dumpster. For 8 years of FT, we have continued to use the TP in the trash method and this has allowed us to leave both waste valves open when we have FHU's. This has saved me the chore of regular tank dumping and countless hours saved not dumping, 2 x week x 10 min x 52 weeks/year x 8 years = 138 hours not spent dumping My experience with TP being flushed is mostly with home septic systems. For our home septic tank, which went by the TP in the trash method, we never had the tank pumped out in 20+ years living in our house, even though I had it inspected every couple of years and would only find liquid inside. For my rental houses, when I checked the septic tank every couple of years, I would find a thick raft of floating TP which would then need to be pumped out or else risk plugging up the drain field. TP is just another solid in a waste/septic tank that needs to be dissolved using water. Even city sewer treatment plants must remove all the dissolved solids before the water can be discharged into a water shed. TP just adds to the sewer plants filtration work and the treatment expense. By putting TP in the trash, you are saving the planet's clean water resource for other uses. As posted below, either method does work! This should not be about defending your method, just be open that other methods also work and why some people chose them.

We had a king size in our house and bought a Fifth Wheel with a queen bed not giving it much thought. It was hard getting used to a smaller bed, it is like trading in a loaded Cadillac for a base level Chevy with manual windows.

Last winter, I needed a local address verification to open an account, so I mailed a empty envelope from the post office to the RV park I was staying at.

I reworked my fresh water tank by adding a 2X4 board and sloping plywood floor on the far end of the tank, opposite the drain. With the drain valve open on travel days, the tank gets totally empty.

So what is the difference in filling 10 gallon jugs vs just filling your RV tank? Just pour the kiosh water into your RV tank! Another thing, being from the Flint, MI area, the real story is the water always was/is safe to drink, it's the old pipes running from the street water main into the houses that were leaching lead. Newer built or houses with plastic water lines did not have lead issues. The city government faulted by eliminating the lead inhibiter chemical in the city water supply, as a cost savings. The real scandal started with the water testing, the city knew which houses to test for safe lead levels and which houses to avoid. When the city was demanded to test suspect houses, they changed their test procedure to require running the tap water for 15 minutes before taking water samples which would flush out the lead. We full time for the last 8 years and use our RV water tank of and on as needed and have never once cleaned or sanitized it, however I do drain it dry in between usage. Just this morning, the water hose froze up, so I turned on the pump and we will use tank water until the hose thaws out.

I have a Texas CCW and I never carry on me. My thought for getting the CCW was that if I ever needed to step outside the RV with any firearm for defense reasons, then I might have a better chance of staying out of jail if I could show the LEO's that I was a legal permit holder.

We requested our ballots to be sent directly to ND at a farm we are working at and they arrived on 10/6, last Tue.

Try Yankee Forks State Park in Challis, ID. We stayed there 2019 summer at the visitor center as volunteers working in maintenance repairing equipment, mowing, and whatever needed to be done. They have 2 FHU sites and this is just a visitor center with no other camping allowed. The visitor center did also run 2 remote abandoned mining towns that included paid camp workers to stay onsite with their RV's for security and tours. The park provided FHU with water tanks and a generator. This would be a cool summer job in a gold mining ghost town, set in the ID mountains. The town host that summer routinely seen bear and mountain lions on the mountain sides and had a trout stream next to their RV. Joni was the Park Manger, she was hoping to retire soon but the contact info should be still good. I would advise making contact ASAP to get your name on the list for 2021 openings. Joni Joni S. Hawley Park Manager Land of the Yankee Fork State Park 24424 Hwy 75 | Challis, ID 83226 tel (208) 879-5244 website | map | passport “Leaders in outdoor recreation since 1965.”

The video was a school project from the farmer's then 12 year old son. We had a snow storm during the 2018 harvest which then required the trucks to be pulled from the muddy fields onto the road. Usually the beet cart is not needed and the trucks will load on the run along side the beet harvester. We are training 4 new drivers this 2020 season out of our 18 seasonal driving crew (9 trucks running 2-12 hour shifts). The goal is to not have to shut off your truck for the entire 10-14 day harvest. That's a good harvest season!

2020 beet harvest is gearing up and farmers are in short supply of drivers. In ND & Mn, no CDL is required, just a regular driver's licenses and some farms provide free RV hook up's. The harvest season in ND runs Oct 1st until completion which is usually 2-3 weeks depending on weather. The pay runs $20 - $30/hr and most farms work 12 hr shifts. Check out other locations like Mich or Idaho that also have beet farms in their areas. https://grandforks.craigslist.org/search/jjj?query=beets&sort=rel https://www.crystalsugar.com/sugarbeet-agronomy/7-gold-standards/harvest/ There are also job openings working in the beet piling stations if you don't prefer to drive a truck. https://www.theunbeetableexperience.com/apply-online/ Here is farm video of the farm the wife and I have harvested for during the last 6 years. The beet harvest begins at about the 16 min slot on the video.

Thanks Kirk, I have followed your post for the last 10 years and have used your information as mentoring advice.

We have volunteered in 28 states in our 8 years of full timing, with a goal to hit all 48 states. It seems like state parks are expecting the most from volunteers due to universal budget short comings. We never get a formal written contract and will verbally renegotiate the work load as needed with the understanding that we could leave if things don't get worked out (never happened yet). We recently arrived to camp host in a N. Indiana S.P. and when we arrived were told the other 2 volunteer positions were unfilled for a 288 camp site park. So we were the only host here! The original work verbal agreement was to pick up garbage, clean fire pits for our 1 of 3 loops and to fill in the 24hr week requirement, we would assist the front gate on Fri's. This turned out to be pre-checking in cars prior to the gate stop in full sun, on pavement, and in 90+ July heat. When we arrived, we negotiated to pick up garbage and clean fire pits for all 288 camp sites and forego the check in job. I had the upper hand in this negotiating because they knew if we left, they would have no host for the cg. We still average 32 hours/week because we want to and the wife and I can clean all the vacant of 288 camp site fire pits in 6 hours each/12 hrs total. We like to volunteer because it keeps us busy as we want to. We have learned not to volunteer at S.P.'s back to back or you will get burned out. Try a N.W.R. or a different adventure inbetween S. P.'s. We also don't agree to clean bath rooms and have found most S.P.'s don't expect that. We will monitor bath rooms and change toilet paper if needed along with emergency cleanups, but no scheduled cleanings for us. We have found that 1 month is ideal for a volunteer stint, any longer and it just becomes a job. For some states, that may require getting creative, like in CA that has a 3 month volunteer min so we got 2 parks to agree to a 6 week stint each. In NY, they have a 2 week max volunteer period, so we signed up for 2 different state parks. As a volunteer, don't be afraid to market your skills/strengths and taylor the volunteer job to your desire. The worst they can say is no! We also make it a point not to return as volunteers, although every park has asked us to, but our reasoning is that if we would have stayed/returned at the last park, we would have never experienced the current park. Each park is a new experience, whey waste time doing repeats.

Last winter I hired on as a spare school bus driver in the S. Texas area. The school district was so short on drivers, that they invested CDL training, medical exam and the hiring process to hire me. I told them I was only in the area for 3 months as a winter Texan but they were having the bus superintendent covering the spare driver position. I do plan to return next winter for another 3 month stay and hope to rehire again as a spare driver. Two 3 hr shifts/day that paid $15/hr + benefits and no state income tax. We volunteered 12/hr/week each at a nearby RV resort that also that included a free site. It was a neat experience!

Our Samsung has the reversible door option. I removed a screw from the opposite side and got a 7mm bolt and knob from a hardware store (my bolt was too short and I had to weld 2 bolts together, a better option is to just buy a long enough screw )