rickeieio

Best way by far, is to use a Jackalopee. Simple to install and nearly bullet proof, unless some dipstick (like me) lets water get inside. Ours is mounted to the rear of the cab so I can see it from the back of the bed, using the led's for diagnostics. BTW, WELCOME!!!!!!!

This is all for naught. You’re over gvwr already. Don’t throw bandaids at it.

Henry, you're just teasing us. What is the GVWR of the trailer, and what is the loading of liquids (fresh and waste water)? If the owner still has some cushion in within the GVWR range, they might travel with a full fresh tank when the RZR is on board, possibly curing the hitch balance issue.

Look at David Dixon's site, RVNerds. I believe it's covered there. If memory serves, DOT tape only applies to commercial trailers. That said, safety is never a bad thing.

Considering that you're pulling an empty trailer, I would re-use the bolts. However, the nuts should be locking type with nylon inserts (Ny-Loc), and I would source new nuts.

The distance measuring function in google maps is your friend.

Okay, that makes sense. Thanks for the clarification. We're about 71' over all, with a 43' fifth wheel. There have been time when e've had to park the truck off site, usually very close by. It's not really a problem.

Huh? There are lots of 45' motorhomes. (and some bigger) Look at the specs of any m/h manufacturer.

Not on the road, but will be in a few days, heading for Mississippi for a couple weeks. And thank you Kevin for the kind words. It was a pleasure having you stop bye.

You got me. But I wonder, how big would the wick need to be? Surely close to 1"?

I saw that video link too. Simple physics tells me it's bs. A candle can't put out enough btu's to do the job. Well unless you have enough insulation to have zero heat loss. Good luck with that.

We've had an issue with the windshield washer pump not running. Turns out, it's a broken wire right at the plug (Delphi) on the pump. Of course, KW didn't have it, but a parts house 30 miles away did. Got it, some gland hand "pacifiers" and a WeatherPack crimping pliers too. I noticed that the new pigtail uses different color wires than original. One is white in both pieces, but on opposite sides of the terminal. This isn't the first time I've seen this....

I've been pretty successful finding inflation charts on tire mfg. web sites. If that doesn't work, a generic inflation chart for the tire size will get you close. But like Deezl says, a few pounds won't make that much difference. BUT, since the wear is mostly on the outside/outside, it's likely one, or more, of the wear points suggested above.

By "outside edges", do you mean extreme outer edge, or both the inner and outer edge of each tire? If you mean both inside and outside edges, then you're on the right track with tire pressures. Weigh the front axle and consult the tire chart for your particular tire.

And does it have a security system? If so, is it factory installed?

There's a LOT of wires going to the starter solenoid. Remove and clean them thoroughly. Follow the ground from the battery and clean the far end of that too. Likely to the motor or starter mounting bolt. If you can, measure voltage at the solenoid, then again as you crank it over. A huge drop means poor connection or a bad wire. I've had battery cables that looked fine that wouldn't carry a high amperage load because of corrosion internally.

You bring up a good point. The Volvo I mentioned above was a 2001, little parasitic draw. I have a tractor with 16 y/o batteries, and no parasitic draw. Our KW, otoh, is a 2018, lots of draw, but it does have a Low Voltage Disconnect, so when the batteries get low, it shuts everything down to maintain enough juice for a motor start. That said, I recently changed the original battery in my wife's car, 2015 Lexus. I believe this goes back to battery quality, as a new Lexus battery was nearly twice the cost of the Toyota version with the same specs.

Depends. Two big questions..... 1) What quality battery did you buy? 2) How lucky are you? I put 4 AC Delcos (pricey) in our Volvo in 2011. They were still in there doing fine when we sold it in 2021. Not one minute on a battery maintainer. OTOH, I just replaced the 5 y/o batteries in our Kenworth, with the same house brand batteries (cheap) that were original to it. We'll see.

Spent a few dollars on the truck this week. Had the ecm re-programmed to raise the speed limiter and actuate the exhaust brake when lifting off the throttle, changed out the NOx sensor ($700 with core), and took out the 6 y/o batteries and inserted fresh ones from KW. $400 for the batteries, and $200 for ecm and NOx install for a total of $1,300. Nobody said safety comes cheap.

If you like machinery of all sorts, Steve's shop is a giant play house.

We already have 11R tires. I rarely want to go faster than 75 mph, but once in a while, it would be nice so as to make a clean pass and get out of the way. I know, most trailer tires aren't rated for that speed, but we don't have most trailer tires.

When we bought our KW, there were several settings in the computer that I wanted changed. The dealer wouldn't raise the speed limit, because the tires were only rated for 75 mph with a full load. Duh, when will we ever have that kind of load? Also, the exhaust brake doesn't function until you tap the service brake, and the brake lights don't come on with the Jake brake. They wanted too much $$$$ to change the other settings, so I've been on the hunt for someone who could do it. After much searching and frustration, I stumbled upon a shop not two miles from us who claims they can do it. I know they work on a friend's trucks, similar to ours, so perhaps he's correct. I should know later today.....

Likely no issue license/registration wise, but check with your insurance agent.

Speak of the devil!!!!

I believe one of our regular antagonists, er, contributors, lives very close to that mountain, and also has a Kenworth.